Flap Delete from ECU on FSI

B4Andra

Member
Has anyone done this? This is only a discussion to see what’s possible and what’s been tried, I’m keeping my options open.

Essentially has anyone got a modification for the ECU that prevents the car from using Stratified mode?

The reason for asking is simple, with the upcoming changes to the MOT test, it’s likely that a lot of FSI cars will become failures and be beyond econmical repair.

The one I’m currently working on has some intermittent issues which if I wanted to fix properly, the bill would be more than the cars worth. However the car will run fine in homogenous mode all day long without a grumble or peep. Albeit with a lower fuel economy.

So the flaps would be ignored and left in their “default” open position. The car would use the throttle normally. The NOX system wouldn’t be needed.

There’s cons to doing this, I know, but there’s cons to having the flaps fixed, mostly in cost which will take years to recover the cost of. By the time the costs are recovered there’s a good chance they will need done again!
 

a2sumo

A2OC donor
In my experience of my Fsi emissions were neveran issue. The problem being with the flaps is the actuator is the part that breaks resulting in a strip down to replace. With the actuator broken it’s not possible to just leave the flaps in position as they will move on their own probably into the closed position.
But I do remember reading a bulletin from Audi vw saying that customers that complain about the running can have a map that results in no stratified running. I have never heard anyone having it done. But I guess someone like Vince at stealth could do it but at what cost?
Love the Fsi and miss it now we onl have tdi a2’s Cheers mike
 

B4Andra

Member
The actuator is fine on mine, it’s only intermittent problems that would be niggly to fix and expensive. They haven’t yet caused an EML.

If there is a map that will prevent stratification then it would be awesome. But yea, it’s a case of who and how much to have it done.
 

Pinkythelabrat

A2OC Donor
Paul (Depronman) mapped out the EGR on the TDIs. He worked out what the settings were and set it to zero. I don’t think it was actually mapped out in the version I got but it was discussed.

Maybe he could help with a diy and point you towards which settings are the EGR flaps?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

B4Andra

Member
Wondering if @CreweAudi might be able to ask the service dept on our behalf if they have information on an official map from Audi which excludes the stratified mode on FSI's?
 

bretti_kivi

Member
there is already a map - from ProBoost - which will remove the stratified setup. There's also a semi-official one.

Seriously, go read the German thread. From page 7 there's all the technical details you or your mechanic could ever need, including issues with Knock, additional power and rolling road results and teh settings used to get this.

- Bret
 

B4Andra

Member
Reading that thread through Google translate is hard work! :) I'll try again tonight when I get home from work.

So the proBoost one looks to be about 250 euro, will need a trip to Germany... Or post my ECU to them.

It's a viable option, especially when you consider the cost of replacing the NOX sensor.

If only a re-map would sort the carbon buildup! :D
 

B4Andra

Member
So reading through is very difficult with the translate, but the jist of it is there. The "map" Pro Boost offer turns off the stratified mode and disables the NOX components - because they are just no longer needed.

NOX is the worst part of the VW emissions scandal, so I think reducing these is probably a great thing.

There are some crazy ideas on that forum to keep the ECU happy when disabling stratified mode, such as connecting the actuator to the position detection pot away to the side of the engine! Not a bad budget fix, but I'd rather the car was running correctly homogenous or stratified.

Disabling the flaps should be all you need to do, no need to tie them down, since the suction from the engine will keep the flap down, it'll be like keeping a plank of plywood upright in the wind, it'll just get blown back down again, even if the linkage was broken. I don't imagine it being a problem.

You get a little bonus of lower end torque because the stratified mode cuts the power a wee bit.

The "lumpiness" in the FSI I noticed was due to the changeover in the flaps, didn't realise the changeover was around 3000 RPM, which explains why when you boot the car it ran fine at high revs.

Startup problems can vanish when stratified mode is disabled. I don't agree that this is a fix for these problems, but maybe it's an indication of how delicate the FSI setup is.

The fuel economy apparently isn't heavily affected, at least not that people are noticing...

I'll try get hold of ProBoost to find out if they can re-map with just the ECU in hand.

There's also the budget way... Block the vacuum hose to the actuator and put black tape over the EML....................
 
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B4Andra

Member
So some sums to go along with this idea....

Based on official VW figures and TODAY's (litterally this mornings - Wed 18th July 2018) average fuel prices....

Officially, the car does 47MPG
It has a (42 litre) 9.24 gallon tank - roughly, the figures are never exact.
It does 434 miles per tank... (sure it does)

Super unleaded (required to achieve that MPG figure) is £1.38.60 today.

I work out that the car needs 27.6 tanks to do 12000 miles, which is £3825.36 per year.

VW officially state the FSI system is a 15% fuel saving.

So in a car that does 40MPG, without the FSI, it's got 369 miles per tank.

That's 32.5 tanks to do 12000 miles.

At £1.28.4 (standard unleaded - super is no longer required!) that works out at £4173 a year.

The difference I have worked out is that losing FSI is £350 a year... Using official figures.

I don't believe that would be the case in practice. I don't think there's many on here reporting more than 40MPG in their FSI anyway.
 

B4Andra

Member
there is already a map - from ProBoost - which will remove the stratified setup. There's also a semi-official one.

Seriously, go read the German thread. From page 7 there's all the technical details you or your mechanic could ever need, including issues with Knock, additional power and rolling road results and teh settings used to get this.

- Bret
Does the guy from ProBoost have a site or you have his contact details? I can’t find any online?
 

terrywindy1

A2OC Donor
So some sums to go along with this idea....

Based on official VW figures and TODAY's (litterally this mornings - Wed 18th July 2018) average fuel prices....

Officially, the car does 47MPG
It has a (42 litre) 9.24 gallon tank - roughly, the figures are never exact.
It does 434 miles per tank... (sure it does)

Super unleaded (required to achieve that MPG figure) is £1.38.60 today.

I work out that the car needs 27.6 tanks to do 12000 miles, which is £3825.36 per year.

VW officially state the FSI system is a 15% fuel saving.

So in a car that does 40MPG, without the FSI, it's got 369 miles per tank.

That's 32.5 tanks to do 12000 miles.

At £1.28.4 (standard unleaded - super is no longer required!) that works out at £4173 a year.

The difference I have worked out is that losing FSI is £350 a year... Using official figures.

I don't believe that would be the case in practice. I don't think there's many on here reporting more than 40MPG in their FSI anyway.
My Fsi has done 160k 18 mile commute all motorway average 48.6 on last tank of Tesco momentum 99 octane just filled up at £1.26.9 at Bradley Stoke
 

B4Andra

Member
My Fsi has done 160k 18 mile commute all motorway average 48.6 on last tank of Tesco momentum 99 octane just filled up at £1.26.9 at Bradley Stoke
Is that what the dash is reading? From memory it's always very optimistic. Everyone's use will be different of course! I imagine sitting at just under 60 on the motorway constantly would be very good for fuel economy.
I was able to get 70MPG out of a Golf GT TDi 10 years ago, it was a great car until someone wrote it off! That's when I was doing a huge commute.
 

tch

Member
Is that what the dash is reading? From memory it's always very optimistic. Everyone's use will be different of course! I imagine sitting at just under 60 on the motorway constantly would be very good for fuel economy.
I was able to get 70MPG out of a Golf GT TDi 10 years ago, it was a great car until someone wrote it off! That's when I was doing a huge commute.
We have an FSI & have twice done a round trip from Lincoln to Southampton starting with a full tank without filling up (total of 412 miles & low fuel light did not come on before we got home) . Mainly dual carriageways/ motorways & travelling at a steady 70mph most of the way with no traffic hold ups.
 
Terrywindys claim of 48.6 using 99 momentum is certainly what you should expect with that type of commute.

We're getting 50mgs on long runs over 200 miles each way but that is sticking to the speed limits on all roads. We managed 514.8 miles on this tank below on a trip to North Wales and back, using Shell V-Power below in the 1.4 BBY. The readout had been on 0 miles left but still travelled another 15 miles last part of M1 M25 before we could fill up, definitely butt clenching yet strangely exciting at the same time.

We're definitely getting more miles on the fsi with the Mrs running around locally from brimming to the fuel light on and readout says 15 miles left. So the fsi on a long run should outdo that no problem.The Scotland trip next year many of us are doing will be the test. London (Rickmansworth) to Fort William on a tank via the lake district will be interesting fully loaded.

 

B4Andra

Member
So on long drives and regular commutes I expect that folks would get great MPG, but when you include a nip down to the shops, over to your sisters, taking the dog to the vet and all the other "around the doors" type driving, it'll be hard to break 40mpg.
 

peec

Member
I have used a flap delete map on my 1.6FSI that I purchased from Dyno Chip Tuning in Holland.

I havent done much in the way of testing. I've driven maybe 500miles since mapping.

I might flash back to original to see if I can tell the difference in performance.

There is no engine management light after the remap and with the flap actuator disconnected, but I'm not entirely sure that's all the map has done (ie deleted the error light)
 
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