craigyb
A2OC Donor
On my way home this afternoon my coil light started flashing after a minute or so of driving. Got home and restarted the car, same problem.
So I read about the brake switch and sure enough I had no brake lights.
Took the switch out from the mounting and playing about with it the switch worked, but every time I inserted the switch back into the housing the lights did not work even after adjustment for brake pedal travel etc.
It's 5:30, Audi parts are closed so it might be 3 days before i get a switch, so took the old one to pieces, end pops off easily with a flat blade screwdriver in the lugs, it's a dual switch, inner contacts are one switch, outer are another.
The outer swicth mechanism showed signs of heavy arcing, which is probably why my original DAB unit cut out every time I pressed the brake pedal. So I cleaned the contacts in the switch body and looked at the contact plate, it has two copper contact areas and with the arcing, one was flat and the other was about 1mm high. So I soldered a large blob of solder onto the flat contact area and filed that flat to match the good contact at about 1mm high.
Carefully reassembled the switch, inserted back into the car mounting bracket and hey presto, it's all perfect.
So a simple fix and about 30 minutes work to remove the switch, fix and reassemble.
So I read about the brake switch and sure enough I had no brake lights.
Took the switch out from the mounting and playing about with it the switch worked, but every time I inserted the switch back into the housing the lights did not work even after adjustment for brake pedal travel etc.
It's 5:30, Audi parts are closed so it might be 3 days before i get a switch, so took the old one to pieces, end pops off easily with a flat blade screwdriver in the lugs, it's a dual switch, inner contacts are one switch, outer are another.
The outer swicth mechanism showed signs of heavy arcing, which is probably why my original DAB unit cut out every time I pressed the brake pedal. So I cleaned the contacts in the switch body and looked at the contact plate, it has two copper contact areas and with the arcing, one was flat and the other was about 1mm high. So I soldered a large blob of solder onto the flat contact area and filed that flat to match the good contact at about 1mm high.
Carefully reassembled the switch, inserted back into the car mounting bracket and hey presto, it's all perfect.
So a simple fix and about 30 minutes work to remove the switch, fix and reassemble.
