Flashing EML. With ProBoost

Phil_B

Member
So, randomly while driving the other day my car started to stutter when driving under load at low RPM, then the EML came on and started flashing.
I have the Proboost ECU, and have recently replaced the CAT.

The flashing stopped after a short while, then came back a couple of times.

I did a scan, and it had misfires, and the knock sensor come up.

Having had a read on other threads, it seems I may be in need of coil pack(s).

Would this eradicate the knock sensor issue, or shall I replace too?

Pix of scan!!!
 

Attachments

  • 20241228_151247.jpg
    20241228_151247.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 51
  • 20241228_151237.jpg
    20241228_151237.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 47
We don't know which of those DTCs has caused the EML. Some of them may be historic, and no longer relavant.
I'd clear the DTCs, then, as soon as the symptoms show up, scan again. That'll, (probably), narrow the field.

Mac.
 
When I had this problem with the fsi, I replaced coils/fuel filter and eventually, the HPFP. From then on, only used BP fuel. Problem never came back.
 
We don't know which of those DTCs has caused the EML. Some of them may be historic, and no longer relavant.
I'd clear the DTCs, then, as soon as the symptoms show up, scan again. That'll, (probably), narrow the field.

Mac.
Might have been a bit hasty, I think, so apologies.
Apart from the P3042, all the other DTCs are knock/misfire related, and on all cylinders.
Probably not all the coil packs failing at the same time.
When did you last refuel the car? I'm thinking, could it be bad fuel?
The misfire/knock seems to be real, as you have felt it too.
Could be fuel pressure, but could be other things too.
When you have replaced the cat recently, did you reuse the original pre cat lambda?
You need to licence your copy of VCDS Lite, so you can check the fuel pressure, Lambda, etc.
I don't think we'll get far without logging suspect parameters.
Mac.
 
P3042 is a mystery, can't find any info on what it refers to.
I did find a suggestion that it is the temperature probe in the inlet air temperature sensor though. A Golf FSI had P3042, and it cleared when the sensor was replaced. All a bit vague, but well worth a look I'd think.
It's Group 004, Block 4, in the ECU. You can check that in Measuring Blocks, as the free version allows measuring blocks up to 025, I believe. Should read about ambient, Id think.
Mac.
 
P3042 is a mystery, can't find any info on what it refers to.
I did find a suggestion that it is the temperature probe in the inlet air temperature sensor though. A Golf FSI had P3042, and it cleared when the sensor was replaced. All a bit vague, but well worth a look I'd think.
It's Group 004, Block 4, in the ECU. You can check that in Measuring Blocks, as the free version allows measuring blocks up to 025, I believe. Should read about ambient, Id think.
Mac.
I did notice that DTC P3043/19499, is fuel pressure related, but on a different engine altogether.
No mention of P3042/19498 though. This is something that I've found with the FSI, documentation is a bit sketchy. The label files are similarly afflicted, text lifted from other engines pasted in.
(The reason is, I believe, that the BAD engine was never used in the US, where Ross-Tech are based, and much of their user base is).
I can only suggest getting some logs, and, probably limiting the driving. Knocking should not occur, as the ECU will adjust timing, so something is not right. A Lite license is only $99.
I wish we knew more about ProBoost, especially how DTCs from the ProBoost ECU relate to the OEM ECU, and if there are ProBoost specific DTCs.
Mac.
 
@PlasticMac. As ever, you are a magnificent source of knowledge and experience in the FSI and VCDS. I do have the original ECU still, as I opted to keep it when one came up for sale.
I got it because I had Nox issue and my flappy link broke on the inlet.
The first error message, the one you're unsure of. That has ONLY come up since I fitted the Proboost, so I guess is related to that. It doesn't generate an EML either.

I had meant to ask in the relevant thread if this was known, or related to my already dodgy sensor/sender.

Also, yes. I have refueled recently. And IIRC, not my usual garage. I am down to about 1/3 so will fill right up to the brim soon.

Regards.

Phil.
 
@PlasticMac. As ever, you are a magnificent source of knowledge and experience in the FSI and VCDS. I do have the original ECU still, as I opted to keep it when one came up for sale.
I got it because I had Nox issue and my flappy link broke on the inlet.
The first error message, the one you're unsure of. That has ONLY come up since I fitted the Proboost, so I guess is related to that. It doesn't generate an EML either.

I had meant to ask in the relevant thread if this was known, or related to my already dodgy sensor/sender.

Also, yes. I have refueled recently. And IIRC, not my usual garage. I am down to about 1/3 so will fill right up to the brim soon.

Regards.

Phil.
Time for a full tank of Mr Shell's finest V Power me thinks.
Mac.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ami
The ProBoost assumes the flaps are permanently in the down position. You best check that this is the case. With the linkage broken, there is nothing to move them, let alone retain them in the down state. They rely on the spring in the actuator, via the linkage.
If they have moved they will restrict air flow.
Mac.
 
The ProBoost assumes the flaps are permanently in the down position. You best check that this is the case. With the linkage broken, there is nothing to move them, let alone retain them in the down state. They rely on the spring in the actuator, via the linkage.
If they have moved they will restrict air flow.
Mac.
Good point! I will check.
 
I would swap your coil packs around and see if the cylinder misfire follows it if you haven't already?

The FSI loves to throw in extra error codes when it's often only one of them that matters. Not always but more often than not in my experience.

Keep us updated!
 
The ProBoost assumes the flaps are permanently in the down position. You best check that this is the case. With the linkage broken, there is nothing to move them, let alone retain them in the down state. They rely on the spring in the actuator, via the linkage.
If they have moved they will restrict air flow.
Mac.
Good Evening Mac

....... and don't forget the flaps may be seized at some intermediate position causing the arm failure. Difficult to tell exactly, are we not into back pobing the potentiometer connector here?

Andy
 
Good Evening Mac

....... and don't forget the flaps may be seized at some intermediate position causing the arm failure. Difficult to tell exactly, are we not into back probing the potentiometer connector here?

Andy
You're right, and probing the potentiometer with a multimeter is the simple way to check.
We, (you and I), would probably use VCDS, but I'm not sure if the flap diagnostics would be available with ProBoost.
In @Phil_B situation, there seems to have been a sudden change from being OK to not OK. I wondered if, during the replacement of the cat, the remains of the broken linkage may have been disturbed.
Mac.
PS: Did you manage to locate a Denso dryer?
And wishing you a Happy New Year.
 
You're right, and probing the potentiometer with a multimeter is the simple way to check.
We, (you and I), would probably use VCDS, but I'm not sure if the flap diagnostics would be available with ProBoost.
In @Phil_B situation, there seems to have been a sudden change from being OK to not OK. I wondered if, during the replacement of the cat, the remains of the broken linkage may have been disturbed.
Mac.
PS: Did you manage to locate a Denso dryer?
And wishing you a Happy New Year.
Good Evening Mac,

Sorry for the late reply but I am in hospital, 12 days now, over Xmas and New Year and posting is difficult. On the mend now, home in few days.

Dryer on back burner.

Happy New Year to everyone.

Andy
 
Good Evening Mac,

Sorry for the late reply but I am in hospital, 12 days now, over Xmas and New Year and posting is difficult. On the mend now, home in few days.

Dryer on back burner.

Happy New Year to everyone.

Andy
Get well soon, the FSI'zys of the world need you!
Mac.
 
Further update. I have had very little time to get under the bonnet.
Here's what I have done.
Flaps still move, and are in the correct position.
I ran the fuel (Shell V Premium) to almost empty, and refilled with BP Premium. To note, Shell is 99 Octane, and BP is 97 Octane on Premium.
The car ran better, with less stuttering, and less instances of the EML coming on, either flashing or solid. I have been keeping the Laptop in the car to clear the codes.

The BP Fuel ran low, and my nearest available garage was a different Shell garage. And then I started getting the same big issues. Stuttering, missing, and pulling really badly with the EML flashing regularly. Annoyingly, Ileft my lead at work, so haven't been able to do a VCDS scan of it.

It is VERY weird that it does it worse with Shell 99 over BP 97 premium fuel.


Thoughts???

Also, my replacement Credit card has arrived, so I will be getting the full VCDS ASAP.
 
Hello Phil!

This remind me of the issues had i had with my car, flashing engine lights, spluttering, which got so bad that i had a big white ploom coming out my exhaust one time. (unburnt fuel)

This issue you have is too deep to think using the correct fuel will help your issues. So put that aside for now. In my opinion. Ofc keep using it though :)

First issue i had was my car always stunk of pertrol, this was due to bad fuel injectors. Which i replaced. Do you have a strong smell of petrol coming from your car?

After doing this rather big job the fuel smell went away but it still randomly would missfired when hot and the engine light came back on.

So, after fixing the flaps, the injectors and then a vacumme leak i went to get the timing belt done.

The garage came back saying "who did your timming because it was out by almost two teath" and were not even sure how it had been running.

This ended my troubles and to this day i have never had a major issue and i'm running at 150k miles now.

I am no mechanic, which i always say. Just passing on some of my past experiances in the hope something will help.

@PlasticMac do you know if there is anything you can scan with VCDS that would suggest the timing is out on @Phil_B car?

Keep at it, as long as you dare! :D
 
Back
Top