Flashing Glow Plug Amber

Pilchard said:
Well.... done all of that, and no change. No brake lights other than the tailgate strip... glow-plug light on dash still flashing. Fuse 30... the 10amp mini blade for brake lights... removed checked and refitted. I fully extended the ratcheted plunger on the replacement switch before fitting it but discovered it was then too long for the distance between mounting bracket and plunger actuation lever, so had to push it back home again before it would re-fit.
I must be doing something wrong... it can't be this difficult, can it?
The part number on the bag the switch came in reads 1J0-945-511-A. This replacement part has a spring-loaded plunger which will extend by firmly pulling out against an internal ratchet. The original switch seems to have a similar length of plunger but does not extend out further on any internal ratchet.
Just a thought... maybe I should refit the switch with the max amount of ratchetted-out plunger... with pedal depressed (because that opens up the gap not close it against the plunger) and see. Maybe?
Click to expand...
Hi Pilchard,
You said you have checked the fuse & bulbs, but have you done this visually or via a multimeter?

They can look ok but I’ve found both have problems internally & fuse likewise.
Hth
Keith
 
Catnip64 said:
Careful if you do this as it may then be too long and break when the pedal is released.
The key to understanding the operation is to remember that turning the switch in the mounting bracket locks the plunger in position so when it is depressed, it operates the switch contacts.
I've found the best way is to push the plunger in when the switch is in the bracket so that it extends by around 10mm (pedal pressed down to get clearance), then turn it clockwise to lock. Keep the pedal away from the plunger and manually press to check it doesn't bottom out before releasing the pedal. If it bottoms out, just turn anti-clockwise, press the plunger a little more, re-lock and try again.
You will get it right eventually.
Click to expand...
I think before we go any further, a photo might be a good idea... showing the differences between the two switches.
The fatter of the two (on the left) is the one I've taken out... presumably the original one. Other than having no ratchet feature I've been able to ascertain on the original, the the other difference I have only discovered today is that there appears to be some sort of "switch" or latch incorporated within the original that recognises when it has been installed and locked by rotation into the mounting bracket. You can just about make out the white nylon internal bits to this switch/latch in the photo, about 4cm up from the tip of the plunger. The replacement has nothing at all similar. Without the same features, would the RH of the two switches be a viable replacement?


IMG_4490.jpg
 
kp 115 said:
Hi Pilchard,
You said you have checked the fuse & bulbs, but have you done this visually or via a multimeter?

They can look ok but I’ve found both have problems internally & fuse likewise.
Hth
Keith
Click to expand...
No, inspection was only visual.
With regard to the 10A fuse... if it was not passing current, then I'd assume the brake pedal wouldn't actuate the tail-gate lights.
Re the bulbs... could it really be so coincidental that both looked OK but both defective. Worth checking with a multimeter I suppose, because no matter how little I believe in them coincidences do occur?
 
Pilchard said:
I think before we go any further, a photo might be a good idea... showing the differences between the two switches.
The fatter of the two (on the left) is the one I've taken out... presumably the original one. Other than having no ratchet feature I've been able to ascertain on the original, the the other difference I have only discovered today is that there appears to be some sort of "switch" or latch incorporated within the original that recognises when it has been installed and locked by rotation into the mounting bracket. You can just about make out the white nylon internal bits to this switch/latch in the photo, about 4cm up from the tip of the plunger. The replacement has nothing at all similar. Without the same features, would the RH of the two switches be a viable replacement?


View attachment 69460
Click to expand...
The right hand one is what I believe this part to look like. The left hand one I suspect is a non oem aftermarket one
 
Pilchard said:
No, inspection was only visual.
With regard to the 10A fuse... if it was not passing current, then I'd assume the brake pedal wouldn't actuate the tail-gate lights.
Re the bulbs... could it really be so coincidental that both looked OK but both defective. Worth checking with a multimeter I suppose, because no matter how little I believe in them coincidences do occur?
Click to expand...
Yes fuse would be okay then, but have you got 12v at bulb holders?
keith.
 
kp 115 said:
Hi Pilchard,
You said you have checked the fuse & bulbs, but have you done this visually or via a multimeter?

They can look ok but I’ve found both have problems internally & fuse likewise.
Hth
Keith
Click to expand...
Despite my scepticism, I've checked both the fuse and all the bulbs with a multimeter.
The fuse was fine, but......
...........I feel like stepping outside and giving myself a bloody good thrashing........
All bulbs checked out fine except for the bottom twin filament bulbs which each had the same filament failure despite looking perfect.
Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Pilchard said:
Despite my scepticism, I've checked both the fuse and all the bulbs with a multimeter.
The fuse was fine, but......
...........I feel like stepping outside and giving myself a bloody good thrashing........
All bulbs checked out fine except for the bottom twin filament bulbs which each had the same filament failure despite looking perfect.
Aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
That’s good at least you’ve got to the bottom of it.
Keith.
 
kp 115 said:
That’s good at least you’ve got to the bottom of it.
Keith.
Click to expand...
Keith.... it's not over 'til it's over. I've had my idiot mitts all over the place. God knows what real calamities I might have caused. That adage "If it ain't broke don't fix it" will haunt me for a week or two... if I'm very lucky.
Now let's see if I can find some bulbs.
 
I'll cool down for a week or two, but I might have to resign from this forum because I don't think I could handle the shame of exposing my stupidity any further here.
£0.99 worth of bulbs from my local garage is all it took... that and a prompt from kp 115 to do what I even preach myself... to check the simple stuff first.
But honestly, car electrics are so reliable these days that it must be well over 20 years since I've had a blown bulb; and they have, without exception, all been obviously blown... i.e. filament gone, the glass blackened, or something visible.... so checking with a multimeter didn't even enter my head.

Thank you very much to everyone for their patience and help.
 
Pilchard said:
I'll cool down for a week or two, but I might have to resign from this forum because I don't think I could handle the shame of exposing my stupidity any further here.
£0.99 worth of bulbs from my local garage is all it took... that and a prompt from kp 115 to do what I even preach myself... to check the simple stuff first.
But honestly, car electrics are so reliable these days that it must be well over 20 years since I've had a blown bulb; and they have, without exception, all been obviously blown... i.e. filament gone, the glass blackened, or something visible.... so checking with a multimeter didn't even enter my head.

Thank you very much to everyone for their patience and help.
Click to expand...
The main thing is it’s sorted and you now know how to change the switch and that in your car it had already been replaced!
 
Pilchard said:
I'll cool down for a week or two, but I might have to resign from this forum because I don't think I could handle the shame of exposing my stupidity any further here.
£0.99 worth of bulbs from my local garage is all it took... that and a prompt from kp 115 to do what I even preach myself... to check the simple stuff first.
But honestly, car electrics are so reliable these days that it must be well over 20 years since I've had a blown bulb; and they have, without exception, all been obviously blown... i.e. filament gone, the glass blackened, or something visible.... so checking with a multimeter didn't even enter my head.

Thank you very much to everyone for their patience and help.
Click to expand...
Do yourself a favour & change all for new bulbs & be safe in the knowledge that you have a number of years with out any failures as they’re only all new when it leaves the factory , I did mine & treated myself to a new spare bulb kit just in case.
Hth
Keith.
 
Pilchard said:
I'll cool down for a week or two, but I might have to resign from this forum because I don't think I could handle the shame of exposing my stupidity any further here.
£0.99 worth of bulbs from my local garage is all it took... that and a prompt from kp 115 to do what I even preach myself... to check the simple stuff first.
But honestly, car electrics are so reliable these days that it must be well over 20 years since I've had a blown bulb; and they have, without exception, all been obviously blown... i.e. filament gone, the glass blackened, or something visible.... so checking with a multimeter didn't even enter my head.

Thank you very much to everyone for their patience and help.
Click to expand...
No one is going to judge you we’re all happy to help, I suffered a cambelt failure due to me overrunning the due date!?
But all worked out in the end.
Keith
 
kp 115 said:
Do yourself a favour & change all for new bulbs & be safe in the knowledge that you have a number of years with out any failures as they’re only all new when it leaves the factory , I did mine & treated myself to a new spare bulb kit just in case.
Hth
Keith.
Click to expand...
A very good suggestion Keith. But I'm trying to hang on 'till its late November MOT before I make any further investments... just in case. I'm pretty certain it'll need some suspension bushes/parts by the sound of the rattling underneath on the rough local lanes, and I'd like a set of All-Weathers too. If it comes through it's test without tears I'll treat it to some new bits & bobs.
 
@Pilchard

Glad you've sorted it.

Out of interest on the two switches were there any Audi rings and part number? Sometimes you have to tilt a part to catch the light right before it is visible.

Andy
 
Sorry guys... didn't realise you were still there.
The one in johnnyfartbox's photo is identical (part nos., VWAudi logo etc) to the one I was given to me by Special Edition as a replacement... which I found I didn't need, as the non-original switch was still OK.... ref dead bulb oversight. I've put it in my spare parts bin for a rainy day, or for anyone on the forum that needs one. If someone in need surfaces over the weeks/months/years, I'll be lecturing him about first testing his bulbs with a multimeter first.
 
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