Front brake back / splash plates replacement

Little Dog

Little Dog

A2OC Donor
European-Union
A search for brake back and brake splash plates here returned nothing. So too do searches on Google and eBay. I get results for other Audi models and Golfs but nothing for Audi A2.

First question, does anybody have the part numbers for front brake back plates A2 Tdi 2003? I assumed they would be the same as Golf 4 but apparently not.
 
Parts on their way.

Then the fun begins; how do you remove 6 seized solid screws without pressing the hub out and replacing the wheel bearings?
 
Here is a view of one of the screws securing my front brake splash plates:

2VLJAIq.jpg


They are all in a bad rusted state. Id like to get all 6 out, If I can't then as far as I know I have to remove the drive flange to get a drill on the bolt. Part way through the same job with my Golf. Had to Helicoil 3 out of four holes used in the factory and re-thread the two that were not used (splash plate revised now needs three bolts). Had no choice but the bearings are inexpensive compared to an A2 and the car could be off the road while I do take my time to do the job. Mr tortoise:

RRPH4Bb.jpg


Two questions:

What is my best option for getting all 6 screws out of the A2? Spanners, 6 sided sockets amd vice grips all failed on the golf.

If just one won't come out and I need to remove the drive flange, Does the hub bearing tool remove the bearings without damage so that they can be refitted?

Thank you.

PS I know somebody suggested elsewhere that the ability to remove a bearing is dependent upon the brand of the bearing? I'll worry about branding when, and if, I come to do the job. Can front wheel bearings be removed and fitted again?
 
You need a proper tool to do the front wheel bearings so stay away from doing those if you can.

One trick might be to cut up the splash plates into sections with tin snips or a grinder and rotate the section about it's fixing bolt - this should break the rusted connection between the plate and the bolt and give you more chance of undoing them. Other than that usual tricks of heat, pentrating fluid and hitting them with a hammer.

Simon.
 
Just did this job before Xmas. I feared the worst looking at the rusted state, but they were only put in with a low torque and came out no problem. Six sided socket without a doubt, overnight proper penetrating oil (Plusgas). IIRC you can get penetrating oil on the end of the bolt from the other side as well. If the head do round then try sacrificing an old imperial socket a touch smaller and put it on with a hammer. I have bought some stainless steel replacements M6x10 from memory, same as originals so not that long to offer much resistance.

Andy
 
sco said:
You need a proper tool to do the front wheel bearings so stay away from doing those if you can.

One trick might be to cut up the splash plates into sections with tin snips or a grinder and rotate the section about it's fixing bolt - this should break the rusted connection between the plate and the bolt and give you more chance of undoing them. Other than that usual tricks of heat, pentrating fluid and hitting them with a hammer.

Simon.
Click to expand...
Tried the chop up trick on the Golf and ended up with rings of rusted back plate under under the screw heads. That's not to say it won't work this time though. Thanks for the reminder
All will be well soaked in penetrating oil before any tools go near the screw heads.
 
Andrew said:
Just did this job before Xmas. I feared the worst looking at the rusted state, but they were only put in with a low torque and came out no problem. Six sided socket without a doubt, overnight proper penetrating oil (Plusgas). IIRC you can get penetrating oil on the end of the bolt from the other side as well. If the head do round then try sacrificing an old imperial socket a touch smaller and put it on with a hammer. I have bought some stainless steel replacements M6x10 from memory, same as originals so not that long to offer much resistance.

Andy
Click to expand...
That's encouraging thank you. I'll check the brand of my penetrating oil and also look to see if the holes in the casting are drilled through. On the Golf only one out of three was drilled through.
6 sided metric socket will be my starting point, after that though couldn't bring myself to sacrifice an imperial socket. Bought them new, 1980s Britool and I own a classic Mini.
 
Having a bad A2 day :( . Not one of the 6 screws securing the splash plates will even allow a 6 sided socket to grip it. On the whole they turn to powder and the socket just spins in the dust. Can't get a drill on the screw heads due to the drive flange.

Looks like a hub off + bearing out job to me? Anybody got a better idea please?

Does the after market bearing removal and fitting tool allow the existing bearing to be reused? I would like to reuse them as they have only been on the car for 30K miles.
 
Bummer - we've all had the odd screw like that but all 6 is not playing fair. How about Dremel cut-off disk to create a screwdriver slot and then use an impact driver?

Simon.
 
WD40... I’m sure you’ve tried.

Impact .. hit it with a hammer to shock and loosen thread

Heat... blow torch

Cutting...cut the old shield off leaving the bolts in place this also might loosen them..

I’m sure you’ll be able to reuse the old bearing depending how it comes out of the hub.
 
sco said:
Bummer - we've all had the odd screw like that but all 6 is not playing fair. How about Dremel cut-off disk to create a screwdriver slot and then use an impact driver?

Simon.
Click to expand...

I could probably get the high front N/S one that way but the rear lower most is not even a screw head any more. Along with the one above it it cant be accessed due to the drive flange. Yep it's a bummer!
 
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OK - what about small cold chisel - create a notch then use it to hammer the head in the undoing direction.

Simon.
 
BoxyA2 said:
I’m sure you’ll be able to reuse the old bearing depending how it comes out of the hub.
Click to expand...

Been watching this:


Looks like the retaining clip gets badly chewed up in the removal process. One last try before I go bearing shopping.
 
Ouch.. hate it when a relative cheap easy job goes south and turns into a tactical mission..

Good luck with it .
 
Replaced several but never tried refitting a bearing , the snap ? ring would be a sacrificial component
Although videos show a change done on the car, always found i had to use the press
Possibly result of fine scottish road salt,

Metrinch sockets are my prefer tool for reluctant nuts n bolts after presoaking in release oil , a flank drive type of socket
 
Weetank2 said:
Replaced several but never tried refitting a bearing , the snap ? ring would be a sacrificial component
Although videos show a change done on the car, always found i had to use the press
Possibly result of fine scottish road salt,

Metrinch sockets are my prefer tool for reluctant nuts n bolts after presoaking in release oil , a flank drive type of socket
Click to expand...

I was considering flank drive type sockets but the problem is the state of the screw heads and getting a drive on the socket. I didn't go for one last try today; put the car back together and drove to the supermarket and bought some beer. One last try can wait a little while, the MOT is not for some time yet.
 
Depends a bit on access
Impact driver ?
Or dress the screw head and weld a nut on
Very often the heat helps break the corrosive grip
Or grind flush drill n tap a fresh thread

Mot testers round here seem to have individual interpretation of the rules on dust plates have had several "discussions"
Mainly on disc / drum handbrake set ups tho
 
Yes I spoke to my MOT tester too; they said if there is one splash plate then they will fail. If both splash plates are gone then they would not question and pass. However I need a safe car.
I think welding new nuts on is the way to go but I don’t have the kit just yet. I’ll report how I get on. Two bearings are probably cheaper than welding; actually it’s just one as they are 50% worn.
Access is a big problem, if only one screw on either side will not shift then it’s a full strip down and drilling out.
 
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