Front brake back / splash plates replacement

Weetank2 said:
Replaced several but never tried refitting a bearing , the snap ? ring would be a sacrificial component
Although videos show a change done on the car, always found i had to use the press
Possibly result of fine scottish road salt
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I agree, if the hub comes off to be drilled, I'll do a better job on a bench with a vice, I won't mess about with the threaded rod that comes with the removal tool. I'll use the other removal tool components and a press.
 
sco said:
OK - what about small cold chisel - create a notch then use it to hammer the head in the undoing direction.

Simon.
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Tried with one screw and then gave up yesterday. This method didn't work on my Golf but the threads were solid with rust so assumed the A2 would be the same.

Thanks for the reminder, sharpened my chisel and went for it again today. Had two bearings in my basket and went for one last try before checking out. Result!

TuIyP6y.jpg


Had to sacrifice one M6 tap to clean out the threads behind the drive flange. Cheaper than two bearings.

wQdwkVE.jpg
 
Good job ????.. if it makes you feel any better whilst removing my drivers door card (to get it retrimmed) some muppet had rounded both the screws under the handle. Had to destroy the door card to get it off in the process knackered the panel behind.. luckily I have a breaker so sent the door card out of that with my retrimmer mate whilst I drilled out 3 bolts from the aluminium liner to get it out as they had been rounded too and replaced the aluminium insert.. all in all 15 min job turned into 3 hours of swearing..
 
Spent Sunday evening feeling guilty that my earlier post in the thread had raised false hopes of a simple job. Pleased to see and relieved you have now had success. Actually reading other posts I am beginning to think my splash guards have been replaced at some point because they are rusty but not not heavily rusted (still mostly have paint) and the little bolts, albeit also rusty, as I said earlier came out without too much issue.

I wrongly assumed you would resume work next weekend and was going to post my two penny's worth of a suggestion on something to try to extract your rounded head bolts in the week. I will anyway for anybody reading this in the future. I would have tried a "baby" 6" Stilsons from the plumbing world. For anybody not familiar with this tool it is a very old design of pipe wrench, a somewhat crude looking tool. but the crucial point it is it is designed to grip ROUND pipe. The jaws bite into the pipe (head here) and the more removal torque you apply the more the jaws grip and rarely slip. Mr Stilsons (assume) has got me out of dire situations on many a occasion and I take my hat off to him. The only drawback in the case of a bolt head is a "flat" access is required for the tool.

I was going to recommend, probably too late now, A2 (A4 would be better) stainless bolts to replace these troublesome exposed rusty bolts. Easy to find and cheap enough, such as

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-Stain...hash=item256c35c99e:m:mfQWjut_lb79L8xRvmH7j3Q

Well done again. - Andy
 
Thanks Andy, I’d like to see a picture of the baby stilsons please. I did try mini vice grips (mole grips) but the bolt heads had rusted to a dome shape and it slipped off as I squeezed for a grip. The bolt heads are quite small 8mm so it would have been difficult to file flats. Thankfully the integrated washer / flange was still there on all 6 and a sharp chisel cut into it. Problem solved.
The screws you suggest are exactly what I used on my golf. They look a little large across the head for use on the A2. I have some stainless cap screws on order. I’ll report if they work. Could be some time though as not going there again until I need new discs.
Thanks everyone for your advice; great forum.
 
Morning,

Stilsons might also fail if the heads were dome shaped as you describe, but here is a picture anyway.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ridgid-31000-6-Inch-Straight-Wrench/dp/B0009GF3YS

You are right about the bolt heads being small, surprising. I would expect a 10mm head on a 6mm thread but these are 8mm, some kind of unusual reduced DIN. My stainless replacements are 10mm head but like the original are 6mm deep and there is plenty of room for them in the depressed hole hollows of the splash guard.

Andy
 
Hi Andy, Yes your right too, I've just checked and the 10mm head M6 screws fit nicely on the replacement splash guards. I'll be replacing the Audi screws with 10mm head M6 stainless.
Why did I think they wouldn't fit? Perhaps the guard has been revised and is now supplied with larger flats? If that is not the case then I need to get myself down to Specsavers.
For anybody doing this job the screws suggested by Andy, a few posts above, are a good option and fit new splash guards easily.
 
Good work Phil....I remember my local garage having to cut my rusty ones off. I know it's late in the day now but I had my new splash plates powder coated and they still look new after two years.
 
Kramretsimis said:
Looks like a nice job Phil, so how did you manage the old screws for coming out, I’m about to do mine.
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I did mine a couple of days ago, space too small for my sockets so tin snipped the old put up so I could rotate the screws using it and they came our finger tight. My old screws were really gone!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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