Front brake disc shield removal

I may on latest car keep factory if it’s not going to be a driver it’s so rare with this milage and condition rear of car inc drums lovely but front has caught the surface rust my question is does the wheel bearing hub have to come apart to change out the disc shield ..a couple of pics on my suspension strut and prices of genuine Audi parts to keep 100 % original ..
Front shocks £88 each
Brake dust shield £15 each
Hub bracket £8
Discs £99 the pair
Pads £56
Springs are new £oo
Top mounts £56
The rest will fine scotchbright with WD 40 and alloy parts with fine wire wool paraffin it will all come up like new ..as will cast lower wish bone ..

If I knew for sure who made the shocks and discs for audi I could save a good bit but they would have to match perfectly ..I can get TRW shocks for £98 the pair

Total £433 ..but keeps car totally true ..+ plus my time or the garage
I would genuinely love to hear the forum members thoughts and comments ...on this rare car I’m feeling guilty on the thought of doing what I originally planned ?
 

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I have the disc shields from the breaker I had, but definitely didn't take the front hubs off it. From memory the shields were just held on by a few small bolts each, and came off after the calipers were removed. I imagine you could have fun with those bolts if they've rusted - good luck :)
 
So a bit of heat and penetrate needed I’ve even used melted wax bit if back and forth ...but great to know that once Calliper off I can clean up hub and fit new shields thanks very much ...
 
Indeed they'll come off once the caliper is out of the way. The bolts on mine were a real pain to get off. I also used the cold chisel trick (and liberal amounts of penetrating oil).
I replaced the bolts with stainless steel button head bolts (M6 x 10 mm with hex socket head I think) and added a couple of coats of black Hammerite to the shields to elongate their life.
 
Hi Paul,

Yes, six little bolts but from memory are odd as the oem have reduced sized head, no reason.

Fair bit of chat about this last summer in the thread in Philward's thread his picture came from here..


Andy
 
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Some difference to the condition of my salty sea dog A2 ?

Good luck with the refit ?
 

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Some difference to the condition of my salty sea dog A2 ?

Good luck with the refit ?
Thanks for showing pictures of the amount of rust your encountering, I find it fascinating. It probably never crossed anyone’s mind that an A2 could rust this much!

Is there any chance you post some pictures of other cars (as a comparison) which don’t have nearly as much aluminium in them to show what your climate does to cars, probably ones that are of similar age if that’s possible.

If the admin team could advise (prior to you posting) if this is okay as I appreciate its not strictly A2. If not then can you send me a PM with the pictures as I’m intrigued.

thanks.
 
Thanks for showing pictures of the amount of rust your encountering, I find it fascinating. It probably never crossed anyone’s mind that an A2 could rust this much!

Is there any chance you post some pictures of other cars (as a comparison) which don’t have nearly as much aluminium in them to show what your climate does to cars, probably ones that are of similar age if that’s possible.

If the admin team could advise (prior to you posting) if this is okay as I appreciate its not strictly A2. If not then can you send me a PM with the pictures as I’m intrigued.

thanks.

I guess some cars in Shetland are either done with underseal or waxoil from new and this makes a big difference to how they are as they get older.
 
Thanks for showing pictures of the amount of rust your encountering, I find it fascinating. It probably never crossed anyone’s mind that an A2 could rust this much!

Is there any chance you post some pictures of other cars (as a comparison) which don’t have nearly as much aluminium in them to show what your climate does to cars, probably ones that are of similar age if that’s possible.

If the admin team could advise (prior to you posting) if this is okay as I appreciate its not strictly A2. If not then can you send me a PM with the pictures as I’m intrigued.

thanks.
I can tell you from personal experience I bought about 3 years ago a 1982 mk1 hilux with 10,000 from new only driven around the estate never had any abuse that was eaten away only the paint holding it together and that was not left out in the open it was stored in an open barn when not used ..it was like the above toast only the engine looked ok and that was nr mull on the west coast no where nr the exposed shetlands ...I could not restore it and by then I had restored a few ..so passed it on ...even in Scotland they have far more severe weather than us wimpy southerners ? but salty roads disaster ....don’t get me wrong any car living in our coastal villages will be similar salty ..= rusty ..?
 
I can tell you from personal experience I bought about 3 years ago a 1982 mk1 hilux with 10,000 from new only driven around the estate never had any abuse that was eaten away only the paint holding it together and that was not left out in the open it was stored in an open barn when not used ..it was like the above toast only the engine looked ok and that was nr mull on the west coast no where nr the exposed shetlands ...I could not restore it and by then I had restored a few ..so passed it on ...even in Scotland they have far more severe weather than us wimpy southerners ? but salty roads disaster ....don’t get me wrong any car living in our coastal villages will be similar salty ..= rusty ..?
Hilux’s are famed for their reliability however some what useless without a body, paint is not well known for its structural properties...... ha ha. Mull being some 400+ miles South of the Shetlands and still a fair distance which highlight how remote @LK79 is!

Personally I’ve discounted any car previously that has had any part of its life near the sea whether rightly or wrongly and with Leeds being nowhere near the coast, salt related rust should be kept at bay.

This is why I respect @LK79 for taking in the challenge which itself is no small task, probably however needs to get on with it as it might get rusty again quite quickly.
 
Hilux’s are famed for their reliability however some what useless without a body, paint is not well known for its structural properties...... ha ha. Mull being some 400+ miles South of the Shetlands and still a fair distance which highlight how remote @LK79 is!

Personally I’ve discounted any car previously that has had any part of its life near the sea whether rightly or wrongly and with Leeds being nowhere near the coast, salt related rust should be kept at bay.

This is why I respect @LK79 for taking in the challenge which itself is no small task, probably however needs to get on with it as it might get rusty again quite quickly.
I just thought some of that like hub should be binned lots of scrap in better condition ...I can offer him all Sally’s old shocks that are perfect front and back apart from new top mounts needed for free 50k only ..
 
Personally speaking i am pleased that you are keeping the island green original Paul. It will be worth more in the future with genuine parts including the original cloth seats. I would keep them and store if you are thinking of swapping to leather. ?:)
 
Oops well the plan is to now it’s taxed and insured to drive it after Cambelt is done so next Friday see if sally and I like it ..? If i am to keep it to use ..then in anticipation I’ve ordered today new bilstein b4 but with suplex springs yet to order ! ( bilsteins are going up so I bought them anyway to put away ) ..I would then upgrade the brakes all round as per the other 2 ..I have ordered from Crewe new splash guards the small bracket all screws and shock clamps that hold the brake pipes...it needed after fitting new front shocks I could keep all the original parts to put back ?.. it’s all bolt on no cut and shut here ....let’s see ..sorry if this offends anyone I do realise that originality is very important to a lot of people ..
 
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