Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

Pressing the new bearing in
A rear bearing left half its innards on the shaft when removed
The bearing has an outside diameter,,, suitable to be a correct sized pushing tool. On the press.
If the whole bearing came straight off the shaft,, maybe this job was already done recently,,, like one of mine.
The outer bearing can be grind slit cut off, and again it gives you a correct sized pushing piece.
I put the hub in a bag and in a hot bath
Bearings arrive in a sealed bag,, great for freezing. Try painting copper slip on frost, lol
A 3 or a 6 tonne would probably fit it,,,its about alignment. A 20 tonne would be entering the areas where hub splitting is easily possible. Heat time and tapping,,, and getting a flag when it moves with a bang.

That press did the control arm bush and wishbone that got done at the same time..
 
spike said:
Don't forget that while a press can be used to remove the old bearing assembly, the special tool is needed to install a new one -
https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...-replacement-leicestershire.33179/post-284072
The tool mounts in such a way that it transfers all the 'press in' force onto the outer race of the bearing and prevents the ball bearings within the assembly indenting the races - something which can lead to early failure



Cheers Spike
Click to expand...
Bear in mind,, the torque wrench, if that bearing was badly set in the housing, its not impossible to feel that through irregular torque wrench movement. If the torquing goes smoothly and measurements seem correct, and I finished up with no faults . The torque wrench is is good enough for me to know that the bearing was left in the correct possition. Also your tool does all the action through the outer bearing,, desirably wonderfull. Then it’s tightened to the car via torque wrench pushing inner bearing with the hub nut. And that nut is now applying pressure to all the areas, your tool avoids.
 
Danny said:
. Also your tool does all the action through the outer bearing,, desirably wonderfull. Then it’s tightened to the car via torque wrench pushing inner bearing with the hub nut. And that nut is now applying pressure to all the areas, your tool avoids.
Click to expand...

In my view, when you torque the hub nut it just snugs the splined CV joint shaft shoulder against the inner wheel bearing race and locks it in place. No load is applied through the ball bearings or outer race

Cheers Spike
 
I will try this off the top of my head
The wheel bearing is made up of two taper bearings
3 components
Outer bearing ,, fixed to wheel bearing outer housing.
Taper bearings
Inner bearing ( Yeah I know, that outer housing makes 4, unless it forms both the inside and outsides outer bearing ).
Lol, I am currently looking for a box of old bits, for something else, or I would have it in my hand , for a better description.
Winding the bearing on with the nut
Pushes the two inner bearings along the half shaft
Follow out the forces and it finally needs. The outer bearing to hit the back of the hub ( distance for sensor ) to build up the torque.
If you get the toque without anything funny hapen and the bits measure and look correct. Your next step is on vcds lite to see that abs does not show a fault at the wheels.
 
I had a better look at your tools photos
The silver spanner backs up and pushes the the hub,, I do this with a pile of washers
Everything on the other side is connected to alignment
I use a person,, to bollock me if the alignment is wrong
Its a push
A press does that and if I wanted a precise push,, to put something at an exact distance,,, I would use a press.

Silly little anecdote here.
While I was sizing it up, wether it was doable with a size yourself press. A. Friend recommended a garage that could press the bearings.
That meant , hubs off into a bag with new bearings, and get em round there.
Out walking,, without bearing bag, saw the garage and entered.
The press was pyoonee and covered in dripping oil.
Asked a quote
And they didn’t do them jobs,, hmmmm
 
spike said:
In my view, when you torque the hub nut it just snugs the splined CV joint shaft shoulder against the inner wheel bearing race and locks it in place. No load is applied through the ball bearings or outer race

Cheers Spike
Click to expand...

Hi Spike,

Yes, I agree as the outer race is already in the correct position, or should be! Apart from anything else, using the recommended tool is also way less work!

RAB
 
RAB said:
Hi Spike,

Yes, I agree as the outer race is already in the correct position, or should be! Apart from anything else, using the recommended tool is also way less work!

RAB
Click to expand...
Its £27 quid, the press is £80 , it does the wishbone bushes also, then you can use it as a shelf for the bedroom radio as I do
 
spike said:
In my view, when you torque the hub nut it just snugs the splined CV joint shaft shoulder against the inner wheel bearing race and locks it in place. No load is applied through the ball bearings or outer race

Cheers Spike
Click to expand...
It sets a rub up for the oil seal,,, or maybe Ime wrong
 
Incidentally
If I had managed to slide hammer them out,,
I could have pushed them in with a threaded bar.
No need for a press
Except the wishbone ball joint was uncooperative at the useless when corroded , audi method of restraint,,, and welcomed the press for all its niggles
 
Hi guys,

Bumping this thread - the cacaphony that I was sure was emanating from Audrey’s driver’s side front wheel bearing (due to the noise getting louder / changing tone slightly when on left hand corners has weirdly been confirmed to be the passenger side - I supported the front of the car on axle stands, turned the ASR off and ran it up to 80mph in top gear before shifting into neutral and shutting off - thereby allowing me to get out and listen to both bearings in turn as the wheels span down - glad I did!

I now have the correct bearing tool and replacement bearing via deals on eBay and want to change this myself (my aim is to never need a garage other than for complex jobs that need specialist equipment and / or that will take more than a few hours).

So my question is - what are the potential pitfalls with this job that could mean it takes longer than anticipated or that might need specialist equipment to sort? How likely is it that everything will come apart and go back together without fuss?

I would deeply appreciate guidance from anyone who has done this a few times. Thanks
 
Some folk have really struggled to press the driveshaft out of the hub

Wheel bearing removal, driveshaft stuck.

Hi, Trying to replace my wheel bearing. Got to the part where I need to take the drive shaft out in order to be able to use the tools to pull the wheel bearing out. This is where im stuck. Driveshaft refuses to come out. I've read I need a three leg puller to pull the driveshaft off. I've also...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net

Cheers Spike
 
Danny said:
Incidentally
If I had managed to slide hammer them out,,
I could have pushed them in with a threaded bar.
No need for a press
Except the wishbone ball joint was uncooperative at the useless when corroded , audi method of restraint,,, and welcomed the press for all its niggles
Click to expand...

A year old but just spotted the comment on using a threaded bar to push the bearing in.
Both this method or the use of a press will load up the the inner bearing and likely damage it

Use of the special tool transfers all the 'press in' load onto the outer race which is the only way to do it without damage

Cheers Spike
 
I have mentioned a few times, I still think you are better off replacing the hub with a good used item, about £30. You still have to get the old driveshaft out though, good luck.
 
@dj_efk

A point not about potential problems when replacing the wheel bearing but something to think about.

A copy and paste from my post from last April in a wheel bearing thread.

"On to brands, if you use the Google search above after a bit of reading will soon pick up that SKF and FAG are two respected brands, with evidence that Audi originally used SKF but something new to consider is SKF have recently changed their product, they no longer come with a snap ring. This to me stinks of cost cutting and a now inferior product and after all if Audi went for a hub design with a groove to accommodate the snap ring they must have thought it worthwhile. Ergo I recently bought FAG."

Andy
 
Andrew said:
@dj_efk

A point not about potential problems when replacing the wheel bearing but something to think about.

A copy and paste from my post from last April in a wheel bearing thread.

"On to brands, if you use the Google search above after a bit of reading will soon pick up that SKF and FAG are two respected brands, with evidence that Audi originally used SKF but something new to consider is SKF have recently changed their product, they no longer come with a snap ring. This to me stinks of cost cutting and a now inferior product and after all if Audi went for a hub design with a groove to accommodate the snap ring they must have thought it worthwhile. Ergo I recently bought FAG."

Andy
Click to expand...
Interesting indeed!
The new skf bearings come with a plastic ring any idea what thats for?
 
Howey said:
Interesting indeed!
The new skf bearings come with a plastic ring any idea what thats for?
Click to expand...
Sorry for not replying in January I must have missed it and spotted it just now while searching for my post I have just linked for Graham.

I have no idea about the plastic ring, all I can suggest is asking SKF!

Andy
 
Andrew said:
@dj_efk

A point not about potential problems when replacing the wheel bearing but something to think about.

A copy and paste from my post from last April in a wheel bearing thread.

"On to brands, if you use the Google search above after a bit of reading will soon pick up that SKF and FAG are two respected brands, with evidence that Audi originally used SKF but something new to consider is SKF have recently changed their product, they no longer come with a snap ring. This to me stinks of cost cutting and a now inferior product and after all if Audi went for a hub design with a groove to accommodate the snap ring they must have thought it worthwhile. Ergo I recently bought FAG."

Andy
Click to expand...
This thread has been buzzing around my head for the whole day today!
I went ahead and bought an SKF bearing (was local, well priced and i gave SKF the benefit of the doubt having been my go too aftermarket manufacturer)
The fact the locking ring is no longer present i simply presumed testing had proven it wasnt needed?
However the trouble with the ring missing is that the special tool needs this in place in order for the bearing to seat against the collar in the knuckle. I ended up removing the ring from my old bearing, cut in half and ground down to leave just a little lip to seat both halfes around the race, to act as a shim. Refitting the tool i was now able to press the bearing fully home and then remove the "shims".
In a nut shell, look elsewhere than SKF! I will try and contact them to found out why in my opinion they are selling parts not fit for purpose!
 
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