Front wheel bearing type noise woes - Edit: RESOLVED!!!!!

Phil_B

Phil_B

Member
So, been reading around on here, and know that the front wheel bearing needs a special tool to ensure correct seating of the new bearing.
I need to change at least the drives side and I have a few routes I can go.

Would this be a suitable tool to use? with a new Wheel bearing.

Or, should i get a A new complete front hub less ABS Sensor. I may do both side at once.

Then there is This 2nd hand hub from BullzBitz on Ebay. What is his reputation like? he seems to be a serial breaker of A2's

I'm not adverse to mechanical work, but unsure of the best option to take. On my Rover(s) I'd just replace the bearing, and possibly the ball joint too.
What is the collective's opinion on my best option? Will the ABS sensor be seized solid? Ball joints an Issue?
 
72mm tool looks like the ones that are recommended - references to them here tend to also mention "Gen2" tool as the name of the one needed to install the bearings without stressing them the wrong way.

The 2nd hand supply place above tends to be pricey although I did manage to get something from him once that was a genuine bargain.
 
@Phil_B

Have you bought the new wheel bearings yet? I would not buy SKF, read this and a few posts down as well..

Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

Pressing the new bearing in A rear bearing left half its innards on the shaft when removed The bearing has an outside diameter,,, suitable to be a correct sized pushing tool. On the press. If the whole bearing came straight off the shaft,, maybe this job was already done recently,,, like one of...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net

Andy
 
I will be attempting a front bearing in the next few weeks, thanks for the heads up, SKF would have probably been on my list, but I want to make life easier, not harder.

Phil_B, what bearings are you looking at?
 
Last edited:
I bought the tool kit you showed and did the bearing over the weekend. It went smoothly. Be careful removing the rotation sensor in the hub, mine broke as I tried to lever it out. Otherwise, it was all good.
 
Nice to hear, I will probably get the tool... my plans are a bit on hold, as I'm starting work at the rear and it's not looking good 😬
 
Had fun today. Sort of......
Had soaked the various fixings in Plusgas for a couple days, and wire brushed all the threads.
Didn't stop the strut to hub bolt shearing its head off.
I's been very gently increasing its movement while watching the nut to make sure it moved the same. liberal use of more plusgas..
Then SNAP.
scratched head. Considered removing whole strut, but its the driver side....
Extension bar, square over the bolt, and a club hammer got it moving.
Used an M12 stainless shanked bolt as a temp new bolt until I get the right one.
Also, both my disk shields are missing. Rusted away!
I fitted a 2nd hand hub to get me going, and will redo the original hub with new bearings and paint etc. Replacement had a splash guard.

What I also noticed was that drivers side has a cast lower wishbone, and passenger has pressed steel. Will sort that discrepancy ASAP with another cast one.
Changed the front pads and oil too. Gotta do rear disk pads. DAYUM, the oil filter is hard to get to! And, the under tray is missing a couple of fixings. Will sort those too.
 
Hi Folks, does anyone know tightening torque + angle for wheel bearing nut both front and rear wheel bearing. I am replacing all four with FAG wheelset.
 
Ok. SO. my noise when i turn left is NOT the front wheel bearing.
I fitted a 2nd hand hub that I was told is good, and the noise persisted. So, thinking that the 2nd hand hub was borked, I bought a new knuckle with wheel bearing and drive flange already installed, along with a new CV joint, just to be sure as there was occasionally a click on full lock.
I also fitted a new set of Khumo 215/40/17s at the same time as the 205/40s on it were old, hard, low and ditch finders.
However.....
I am STILL getting the noise when I turn left. Even slightly. Previously, passengers in the car said they could feel a vibration in the passenger footwell. I couldn't from drivers side. So my brother took it out, with me in the passenger seat after he had been in it.

There is definitely a vibration I can feel. That would lead me to think it is either Inner CV joints, or gearbox output bearings. Or, something else. Any clues people. 1.6Fsi for information.
 
That is about the mileage my front wheel bearing started playing up. No vibration though, but I could play a tune on them swinging the car from side to side at 60 (I first checked I had the road to myself).
A2s are quite tough and not much goes at that mileage. I would be very surprised if the output bearings are playing up. Have you got oil in your box, it disappearing can be a problem then other problems follow.
Only ever had one inner CV fail (a classic mini so no surprises) I think the symptom was speed related rattling. Never had an inner CV failure on a German car and some of mine did mega miles.
Recently had vibration through the floor pan of a Merc. Two things, the engine mounts had gone, replacing them solved the vibration but I was still left with a clunk through the floor pan. One ARB link had shaken loose.
My advice is start with the easy fixes; the nuclear option is rarely needed. Investigating trivia can drag on a bit though.
 
philward said:
That is about the mileage my front wheel bearing started playing up. No vibration though, but I could play a tune on them swinging the car from side to side at 60 (I first checked I had the road to myself).
A2s are quite tough and not much goes at that mileage. I would be very surprised if the output bearings are playing up. Have you got oil in your box, it disappearing can be a problem then other problems follow.
Only ever had one inner CV fail (a classic mini so no surprises) I think the symptom was speed related rattling. Never had an inner CV failure on a German car and some of mine did mega miles.
Recently had vibration through the floor pan of a Merc. Two things, the engine mounts had gone, replacing them solved the vibration but I was still left with a clunk through the floor pan. One ARB link had shaken loose.
My advice is start with the easy fixes; the nuclear option is rarely needed. Investigating trivia can drag on a bit though.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Will investigate engine mounts, and the dog bone too.
Which is the correct gearbox oil? I should also check/change that too I guess...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top