depronman
A2OC Donor
liqui moly. Diesel purge. About £15 a litre on eBay. Best £15 you are likely to spend on your tdi A2
Paul
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
fuel filter how to change
- Thread starter pc759
- Start date
liqui moly. Diesel purge. About £15 a litre on eBay. Best £15 you are likely to spend on your tdi A2
Paul
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CrispyEdd
Member
Hi Paul, do you add to tank or connect at filter or under bonnet? Not sure I can be motivated to take it all apart again but would have a crack under the bonnet.
depronman
A2OC Donor
Depends what you are trying to clean
I remove the pipes from / to the tank at the drivers side of the cylinder head front
Then connect a pipe and in to a litre glass container. Put the purge in there then start and run engine at different revs until about ⅓ of the purge is used up. You have run neat purge through the injectors and tandem pump which will get them really clean
Reconnect the tank pipes and with the bear minimum of diesel in the tank add the remains of the purge
Then start up and go for a 25 mile hard drive exercise the entire Rev range trying to hold different engine revs for 30 seconds or so
The main idea is to circulate the relatively concentrated purge around the tank fuel lines tandem pump and injectors
Run as much as you dare of this diesel/purge mix through the engine and when you are at the lowest possible amount of fuel in the tank change the filter for a new one and fill up with shell super diesel
I found doing the above on numerous A2’s resulted in quieter engine more power and urgency to pick its feet up and better fuel economy
Paul
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I remove the pipes from / to the tank at the drivers side of the cylinder head front
Then connect a pipe and in to a litre glass container. Put the purge in there then start and run engine at different revs until about ⅓ of the purge is used up. You have run neat purge through the injectors and tandem pump which will get them really clean
Reconnect the tank pipes and with the bear minimum of diesel in the tank add the remains of the purge
Then start up and go for a 25 mile hard drive exercise the entire Rev range trying to hold different engine revs for 30 seconds or so
The main idea is to circulate the relatively concentrated purge around the tank fuel lines tandem pump and injectors
Run as much as you dare of this diesel/purge mix through the engine and when you are at the lowest possible amount of fuel in the tank change the filter for a new one and fill up with shell super diesel
I found doing the above on numerous A2’s resulted in quieter engine more power and urgency to pick its feet up and better fuel economy
Paul
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CrispyEdd
Member
Fantastic I'll look at doing that. Why the filter change BTW?
I changed my fuel filter in my Audi A2 end of 2001. It is located near my left rear wheel. I took of the metal waffle cover. After that i saw the metal filter. I took off the clamp that holds it in place(one bolt removal) . I lowered the filter down. There are 4 pipes going in the filter. 2 of them are connected together and you can't make a mistake with them. Over those 2 pipes connected together There is a pin that holds them. You have to take off the pin and disatach the pipes. Then i dissatached the other two pipes. They are holding to the filter with clamps. After that you put the New filter, i filled it up with diesel (not sure if its nesecery) Atach the separated hoses with the clamps to the filter, then the two pipes connected together you have to push them down to the filter real Hard and attach the pin. I will attach some photos.
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CrispyEdd
Member
great how to
audifan
A2OC Donor
Always a good idea to replace the fuel filter after any intensive fuel treatment as there could be debris that was released from the fuel system that is now in the filter. Filters are not expensive so worth changing the filter before the treatment then again shortly after, say before the second tank of fuel after the treatment. You could very well be surprised just how much fuel gets returned to the tank and fuel cooler and also explains how you find new debris in the filter as some of the fuel gets recirculated.
CrispyEdd
Member
I see good idea, thank you.
Just stumbled across this thread again and referencing Mike's @Skipton01 excellent how to regarding clamping just the two fuel line's, I wondered if anyone had successfully completed this procedure without incurring any problems without clamping any line's at all as I quite like the idea of draining the whole system of all old dirty fuel and then fitting a new filter and refilling with new clean fuel?
I obviously don't want to create any problems or risk getting air in the system but I vaguely remember doing this on a similar late style 2003 tdi 10 or more years ago without problem but I don't know if I'm braving enough to do it again ?
Any expert advice welcomed and appreciated ?
I obviously don't want to create any problems or risk getting air in the system but I vaguely remember doing this on a similar late style 2003 tdi 10 or more years ago without problem but I don't know if I'm braving enough to do it again ?
Any expert advice welcomed and appreciated ?
I'm replacing the fuel filter anyway so being the lowest point in the fuel system would seem the perfect place to drain the tank from?
I think if I remember right last time I just left it a little while and turned the ignition on and off a few times to get the fuel pump to do it's thing without trying to start it and it started straight away.
I might have been lucky though and would hate to have a problem.
Worst designed part on the A2 in my opinion and the only serviceable bit I really don't look forward to doing.
Why it's not in the engine bay is beyond me
I might have been lucky though and would hate to have a problem.
Worst designed part on the A2 in my opinion and the only serviceable bit I really don't look forward to doing.
Why it's not in the engine bay is beyond me
audifan
A2OC Donor
Fuel filter is in the rear as most of the components that are connected to it are also there. Only need the fuel feed and return to travel the length of the car.
Diesels except for VERY early ones only have the tandem pump, so turning the ignition on and off will do nothing as there is no electric pump.
Prime by using a squeeze type pump on the tandem return line, not trying to over work the starter and battery cranking to death.
Diesels except for VERY early ones only have the tandem pump, so turning the ignition on and off will do nothing as there is no electric pump.
Prime by using a squeeze type pump on the tandem return line, not trying to over work the starter and battery cranking to death.
I'm sure I didn't have to crank it lots last time and didn't squeeze anything to prime. I guess I must have got lucky.
I had a 2004 1.9 tdi VW Caddy, first of the new shape 2K and the fuel filter for that was in the front of the engine bay, just like an oil filter and so easy and a pleasure to change.
I believe many or probably most A2's don't have their fuel filters changed anywhere near as often as they should because of where they are
So finally got a spare hour to change the fuel filter on our tdi.
All went well and it certainly needed doing judging by the colour of the old filter and the black bits that were in the fuel when it was removed, as it had been a couple of years since it was last done.
Typically the heat shield bolts sheared as the nuts were totally corroded seized despite copious amounts of penetrating fluid applied periodically in recent months and again before removing, along with a good wire brushing, so I will have to come up with a retaining solution for the protective/heat shield which thankfully is still in excellent condition and damage/rot free (advice welcomed and appreciated if you have already made a similar original quality fix)
The only scary bit was regarding the removal and replacement of the plastic nuts on the housing as they do seem to become very dry and tight with age and there is a terrifying fear that the small 10mm 2nm drain screw with shear (which fortunately mine didn't and should be good for at least another change) or the plastic 27mm nut on the housing lid itself with shear under force when undoing as then you're into a complete new housing for £80 odd but again thankfully all went fine.
The only minor issue I had was when I torqued the housing lid to the stated 25nm it appeared to leave a very slight 1-2 mm gap between the lid and the housing and I was reluctant to apply any more force in case the worst happened and although there are no leaks it bothers me slightly, so i plan on removing it again the next time I'm under the car again and will lubricate the threads with something with a bit more lubricating capabilities than the diesel that I applied to the seals and threads this time (again any advice on appropriate lubricants appreciated).
Unfortunately it didn't solve the occasional intermittent misfire that I've been recently experiencing but then again I didn't really believe it would, so next up was to replace or repair the injector wiring harness which I believe is the probable cause.
A good job done though (along with the pollen filter replacement) that thankfully won't need doing again for a couple of years ?
All went well and it certainly needed doing judging by the colour of the old filter and the black bits that were in the fuel when it was removed, as it had been a couple of years since it was last done.
Typically the heat shield bolts sheared as the nuts were totally corroded seized despite copious amounts of penetrating fluid applied periodically in recent months and again before removing, along with a good wire brushing, so I will have to come up with a retaining solution for the protective/heat shield which thankfully is still in excellent condition and damage/rot free (advice welcomed and appreciated if you have already made a similar original quality fix)
The only scary bit was regarding the removal and replacement of the plastic nuts on the housing as they do seem to become very dry and tight with age and there is a terrifying fear that the small 10mm 2nm drain screw with shear (which fortunately mine didn't and should be good for at least another change) or the plastic 27mm nut on the housing lid itself with shear under force when undoing as then you're into a complete new housing for £80 odd but again thankfully all went fine.
The only minor issue I had was when I torqued the housing lid to the stated 25nm it appeared to leave a very slight 1-2 mm gap between the lid and the housing and I was reluctant to apply any more force in case the worst happened and although there are no leaks it bothers me slightly, so i plan on removing it again the next time I'm under the car again and will lubricate the threads with something with a bit more lubricating capabilities than the diesel that I applied to the seals and threads this time (again any advice on appropriate lubricants appreciated).
Unfortunately it didn't solve the occasional intermittent misfire that I've been recently experiencing but then again I didn't really believe it would, so next up was to replace or repair the injector wiring harness which I believe is the probable cause.
A good job done though (along with the pollen filter replacement) that thankfully won't need doing again for a couple of years ?
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dj_efk
A2OC Donor
High stakes job that when done without a @depronman standard issue drain screw to hand!
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Yes very true and I did actually have one shear many years ago but managed to rig something up with a 10mm bolt and washer to secure the seal and prevent any leak but now I just use a long or deep 10mm socket and only tighten it by hand?
audifan
A2OC Donor
Did you replace the seal in the filter housing lid? The slight gap is not really an issue and only use diesel to lubricate the seal. Pauls drain plug is far better and will out live the car..
When my filter heatshield was ripped off the car when hitting hidden flood water I glued large headed studs after cutting off the remains of the originals and used plastic nuts to secure the heatshied. A couple of washers were used where the holes had ripped through.
These are the studs that I used....
When my filter heatshield was ripped off the car when hitting hidden flood water I glued large headed studs after cutting off the remains of the originals and used plastic nuts to secure the heatshied. A couple of washers were used where the holes had ripped through.
These are the studs that I used....
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