Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Root cause fixed:
Now back to the gearbox.
Now back to the gearbox.
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Gear change issues 2003 TDi 150K miles
- Thread starter Little Dog
- Start date
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Finished for the day, got all of the parts I need to get off / out:
Dropped the oil out, a not so nice brown colour:
Most of the 2 litres I put in a couple of years ago is still there and I can't see any water even after it has been left to separate:
The good news is that the oil is nice and slippery still so fingers crossed the gearbox will be fine.
A couple of simple questions:
1. Somebody mentioned greasing the assembly. would that be a special grease compatible with the gear oil?
2. I have two aluminium to aluminium joints to seal on reassembly. Never used liquid sealers would would be a good choice for a gearbox?
Thank you all for your help. Couldn't have got this far without it. Much appreciated.
Dropped the oil out, a not so nice brown colour:
Most of the 2 litres I put in a couple of years ago is still there and I can't see any water even after it has been left to separate:
The good news is that the oil is nice and slippery still so fingers crossed the gearbox will be fine.
A couple of simple questions:
1. Somebody mentioned greasing the assembly. would that be a special grease compatible with the gear oil?
2. I have two aluminium to aluminium joints to seal on reassembly. Never used liquid sealers would would be a good choice for a gearbox?
Thank you all for your help. Couldn't have got this far without it. Much appreciated.
Pinkythelabrat
A2OC Donor
I like the endoscope method. I'm going to give that a go for mine. 
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Catnip64
A2OC Donor
Phil,
The grease is only required in the top section to lubricate the part that rotates inside the housing, and not the part that goes into the gearbox. Audi probably have a recommended product, but normal high temperature grease should be fine.
Item 25 that you have removed is the bottom bearing into which the selector shaft locates and unless it's showing signs of wear, then I don't see a need to replace. As this part is located on the bottom of the gearbox it's important to ensure it seals correctly, so best to carefully clean the mounting faces and use a suitable sealant when re-fitting. I recall that there is some adjustment on the bolts, so best to tighten these after the selector tower assembly has been fitted.
Are you buying a new assembly or using a secondhand unit?
Steve
The grease is only required in the top section to lubricate the part that rotates inside the housing, and not the part that goes into the gearbox. Audi probably have a recommended product, but normal high temperature grease should be fine.
Item 25 that you have removed is the bottom bearing into which the selector shaft locates and unless it's showing signs of wear, then I don't see a need to replace. As this part is located on the bottom of the gearbox it's important to ensure it seals correctly, so best to carefully clean the mounting faces and use a suitable sealant when re-fitting. I recall that there is some adjustment on the bolts, so best to tighten these after the selector tower assembly has been fitted.
Are you buying a new assembly or using a secondhand unit?
Steve
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Looking like being new, I don’t have a car at the moment and need it back in action ASAP.
Yes I was only going to grease the top of the mechanism. Concerned about grease getting into the gearbox.
Any suggestions for a suitable sealant. As things stand both joints will be cleaned and get a smear of heat resistant silicone.
Thank you.
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Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Collected the parts today and to my surprise the replacement shift rod came complete with a new ball sleeve assembly on top including a new reversing switch:
The new assembly is a sealed non serviceable assembly so everything on the left is scrap. I so hope the local dealer as got this right.
In some respects this is helpful as the bearing outer is seized in the aluminium casting. An internal bearing puller pulled the lip off the sleeve / outer. Some heat may have helped but I suspect steel against aluminium corrosion:
Held up now for a tube of Loctite flange sealer so cleaned everything up. Gearbox was covered with water again. Checked the source and it is coming out of the cutout for the N/S washer jet module. It then splashes all over the gearbox including the shifter assembly.
It looks like the foam strips direct the water there. Have I got something missing?
A catcher and tube or some foam?
The new assembly is a sealed non serviceable assembly so everything on the left is scrap. I so hope the local dealer as got this right.
In some respects this is helpful as the bearing outer is seized in the aluminium casting. An internal bearing puller pulled the lip off the sleeve / outer. Some heat may have helped but I suspect steel against aluminium corrosion:
Held up now for a tube of Loctite flange sealer so cleaned everything up. Gearbox was covered with water again. Checked the source and it is coming out of the cutout for the N/S washer jet module. It then splashes all over the gearbox including the shifter assembly.
It looks like the foam strips direct the water there. Have I got something missing?
A catcher and tube or some foam?
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Gearbox and bag covering hole covered in water again:
Sod it, form follows function:
Sod it, form follows function:
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Fixed, shifting nicely and I'll continue to monitor the water on gearbox problem. Hopefully that is fixed too.
Thanks all for the advice given.
Thanks all for the advice given.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I think £130 + VAT - a bit of dealer help. Edit: also need a new end cap £20 + VAT.
The seals and bearing on the other hand were £12. I managed to return these.
I first noticed gear change issues over two years ago and tried the cable lube approach. Recently disconnected I discovered they were incredibly smooth. I then waited to pluck up the courage to remove the center console. Set the cables, got an improvement but didn’t appreciate the change was still rubbish. On advice went for a second adjustment and noticed a rocking shifter rod.
My advice if you have shifting issues is to start by checking the shift rod for lateral movement, it can only be caused by a failing ball sleeve. Difficulty engaging the locking lever could also be indicative of a failed ball sleeve. The shift rod is heavily sprung to one side and gets pushed out of position. The new design is balanced with apposing springs.
If you have shifting issues check first for shift rod issues and catch it early for a £12 repair.
The seals and bearing on the other hand were £12. I managed to return these.
I first noticed gear change issues over two years ago and tried the cable lube approach. Recently disconnected I discovered they were incredibly smooth. I then waited to pluck up the courage to remove the center console. Set the cables, got an improvement but didn’t appreciate the change was still rubbish. On advice went for a second adjustment and noticed a rocking shifter rod.
My advice if you have shifting issues is to start by checking the shift rod for lateral movement, it can only be caused by a failing ball sleeve. Difficulty engaging the locking lever could also be indicative of a failed ball sleeve. The shift rod is heavily sprung to one side and gets pushed out of position. The new design is balanced with apposing springs.
If you have shifting issues check first for shift rod issues and catch it early for a £12 repair.
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not too terrible. I was quoted £100 with dealer help for a single gear selector cable. mine had frayed at the end. Couldn't see how I'd fit a single cable through the bulkhead rubber unless it came in parts for assembly a home. ended up buying a set off ebay for £50 to fit as a pair but I'm starting to think I should have got a new one. Operating the gearbox via the tower itself is actually OK on mine. I've got movement on the gait selector pivot on top of the gearbox so thats my next job.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
One final update, the gear change has continued to improve and is now like a knife through butter. I suspect the revised shifter rod / tower assembly is a superior design. I also changed the two securing bolts, that were too large for the machines flats on the new casting, for socket head cap screws. May have helped but I suspect the old and new components have bedded in to each other.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Gearbox covered in water again.
Sod it, form follows function:
I'm going to stop checking for water on the gearbox top. The correct positioning of the water from bonnet catcher combined with this bodge has solved the problem. The orange funnel and bit of garden hose is staying.
Pinkythelabrat
A2OC Donor
It’s not a bodge unless silicone or duct tape were involved or a future owner would stare in horror at what you’ve done - this fits none of those ‘official’ criteria. This is just a good engineering solution - and fashionably coloured too! Copper-tones are so in!
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
As Albert is in sick bay for a while I decided to replace the N/S foam strips under his windscreen scuttle / wiper cover.
Under the foam I discovered what looks like a circular drain hole that would not have been draining:
Should that hole be a drain?
Thanks
Under the foam I discovered what looks like a circular drain hole that would not have been draining:
Should that hole be a drain?
Thanks
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Just noticed I never concluded this thread.
I put grommets in the holes and used tape and foam to direct any water to the funnel which is now permanent feature on my car.
Also discovered the clip at the bottom of the windscreen was defective allowing water under the plastic scuttle. Sealed it with clear silicone.
The gearbox now stays dry so hopefully my gear change will stay good for some time.
I put grommets in the holes and used tape and foam to direct any water to the funnel which is now permanent feature on my car.
Also discovered the clip at the bottom of the windscreen was defective allowing water under the plastic scuttle. Sealed it with clear silicone.
The gearbox now stays dry so hopefully my gear change will stay good for some time.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Silicone and duck tape now very much involved.
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Hi
I need some help.
My wife’s Tdi 2003 that we are in the progress of selling has a gear selector problem. Totally drivable but sometimes tricky to get into 3rd, been like this s long time.
The mechanic has narrowed it down to the spring inside the gear change tower.
Apparently these are not available to buy separately.
A2Steve is having a look. But if someone has the spring that would be a help (or the complete tower?)
It will be an EWQ gearbox (in a Tdi 75.)
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Steve B
I need some help.
My wife’s Tdi 2003 that we are in the progress of selling has a gear selector problem. Totally drivable but sometimes tricky to get into 3rd, been like this s long time.
The mechanic has narrowed it down to the spring inside the gear change tower.
Apparently these are not available to buy separately.
A2Steve is having a look. But if someone has the spring that would be a help (or the complete tower?)
It will be an EWQ gearbox (in a Tdi 75.)
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Steve B
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Skipton01
Admin Team
The spring in the shift tower may or may not be the culprit - it could also be down to the sleeve bushings in the relay lever seizing which would cause the same symptoms. I am currently investigating the same on Tank - side to side stick movement has recently become very sticky.
I have bought a new shift tower, as it was going cheap on the auction site, but may have to replace the top selector housing if it's gone the same way as Phil's example. These are coming in at £96+ VAT, which isn't exactly cheap.
One question of Phil though - you say above that the new shift rod assembly came complete with the top selector housing and even the counterweight relay plate. However, it looks to be of a completely different design compared to the one removed from your A2 - as you show in the photo on post 26. Can you confirm the part number that was ordered?
I'll be tackling the maintenance when I get time, but until then, it's quite a nice challenge having to hunt for 3rd gear!!
I have bought a new shift tower, as it was going cheap on the auction site, but may have to replace the top selector housing if it's gone the same way as Phil's example. These are coming in at £96+ VAT, which isn't exactly cheap.
One question of Phil though - you say above that the new shift rod assembly came complete with the top selector housing and even the counterweight relay plate. However, it looks to be of a completely different design compared to the one removed from your A2 - as you show in the photo on post 26. Can you confirm the part number that was ordered?
I'll be tackling the maintenance when I get time, but until then, it's quite a nice challenge having to hunt for 3rd gear!!
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Hi Skipton
I'll try and track down the part number but it is the only tower available new from Audi. It is a completely different design so needs a revised bottom support bearing to go with it. The weight thing on top is the original, I just cleaned the rust off and gave it a coat of paint.
The revised design can interfere with the starter motor. In my case the two components are touching and the tower only just tightened down.. Gear change has been transformed though.
Phil
I'll try and track down the part number but it is the only tower available new from Audi. It is a completely different design so needs a revised bottom support bearing to go with it. The weight thing on top is the original, I just cleaned the rust off and gave it a coat of paint.
The revised design can interfere with the starter motor. In my case the two components are touching and the tower only just tightened down.. Gear change has been transformed though.
Phil