Handbrake issue 1.4tdi 90

Ghengis

New Member
Hi all. Having recently succeeded in sorting out my engine earth problem, I'm raring to go. I have an issue with the o/s handbrake. My car, 2004 1.4 tdi 90hp, has discs all round and the handbrake has never been good. A while back I replaced the o/s rear shock and noticed the short cable which runs under the rear axle to the caliper had been damaged at some point. I suspect it had been like this since I bought it. I replaced the cable and noticed that it wasn't releasing everytime on the o/s. Much manual persuasion and copious application of WD40 seemed to cure this. However, the handbrake is still woefully inadequate to the point I can push the car forwards with it on. I wonder has anyone else had similar problems with the rear calipers and what solutions there are?
 
On mine I removed the cable and I could compress the spring for the handbrake part of the calliper by hand and it returned easily. From this I found that the problem was actually with the cable which needed replacing as it was very corroded and wasn't running smoothly. I would ensure that you give the calliper and carrier a thorough inspection though in case the pads are sticking on the carrier or the caliper isn't moving smoothly on the guide pins.
 
Stupid question, why not adjust (tighten up) the handbrake?

How many clicks does it make on pulling the handbrake?

As above, check/lubricate everything.

Andy
 
In my experience the cable NEVER needs adjusting and with disc brakes it can actually cause the self adjustment mechanism inside the caliper not to return fully, so you end up not having enough movement at the caliper. If the cable is running freely and operating the lever on the calipers to the full extents of travel then the fault is likely with the lever shaft on the caliper binding and not allowing the spring to return it fully due to dirt getting past the seal. I tend to change both callipers when this happens as usually the other side isn’t far behind. Must have done 6 or 7 pairs on various VAG cars I’ve owned over the years. My TDI90 is currently showing similar symptoms so I think I’ll be doing the same before too long.
Good luck,
Matt


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On mine I removed the cable and I could compress the spring for the handbrake part of the calliper by hand and it returned easily. From this I found that the problem was actually with the cable which needed replacing as it was very corroded and wasn't running smoothly. I would ensure that you give the calliper and carrier a thorough inspection though in case the pads are sticking on the carrier or the caliper isn't moving smoothly on the guide pins.
Thanks for the reply Hydo.. I renewed the cable when I noticed the damage. The operating lever on the caliper was sticking halfway upon release even with no cable attached. I'd hoped WD40 and lots of wiggling it back & forth would cure it, but I reckon I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and strip it down. I'm thinking the handbrake has been to releasing properly and has probably caused the pads to wear out.
On mine I removed the cable and I could compress the spring for the handbrake part of the calliper by hand and it returned easily. From this I found that the problem was actually with the cable which needed replacing as it was very corroded and wasn't running smoothly. I would ensure that you give the calliper and carrier a thorough inspection though in case the pads are sticking on the carrier or the caliper isn't moving smoothly on the guide pins.
 
The springs on the cables get weaker with age. This has the same effect as stretching the cables.

RAB
 
I used to own a Celica which had large rear discs but, in the middle of the disc, was a tiny brake drum for the handbrake mechanism only.

It was a lovely set up and never suffered any ‘sticking’ despite being left on for weeks at a time (on a hill) in all weathers and salt conditions.

Shame the discs were £450 each to replace though... and that was 15 years ago! ‘Overnighted from Japan’

Drums for me I think. Easier to paint too.


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I used to own a Celica which had large rear discs but, in the middle of the disc, was a tiny brake drum for the handbrake mechanism only.

It was a lovely set up and never suffered any ‘sticking’ despite being left on for weeks at a time (on a hill) in all weathers and salt conditions.

Shame the discs were £450 each to replace though... and that was 15 years ago! ‘Overnighted from Japan’

Drums for me I think. Easier to paint too.


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Same set up as on my venerable old Mercedes 124 series estate.. Although the handbrake on those is operated with a footpedal and released with a handle.
 
I've just been forced to change the NS rear caliper as it seized last week. The first I was sent had to be returned as the bleed screw thread was gone. The second was a non OEM bought new - I've fitted alongside new pads and disc. Despite bleeding I'm finding the new piston isn't engaging and the pads not binding, and the handbrake isn't working on that side at all....indeed I have to push the spring back up to reset to normal rest position.

I've obviously missed something and now beginning to regret tackling this myself but now conscious I have brakes not functioning on NS rear so could do with some pointers on how to remedy if anyone can point me in the right direction?

For reference Ive bled and fluid appears to be running freely to the caliper but I wouldnt rule out that the reason the original caliper froze was due to issues with the rear brake pipes...

Every week right now i'm having to fix something on this car!
 
Cars are a bit like us humans ... They get to a certain age them everything starts falling apart.

Do you still have your original rear caliper? I would completely strip that one down and get an overhaul kit ( assuming still available with Covid and Brexit ) and refurbish your genuine caliper, provided the bore is not corroded or scored. Failing that I would buy a second hand caliper and refurbish that again noting the bore including the spring replacement. Aftermarket ones recently have really gone down in quality. How often are you replacing / flushing your brake / clutch fluid?
Would give serious consideration to refurbishing BOTH rear calipers. Even if you obtain second hand ones and refurb those before swapping over. The surplus pair could then be sold on to someone else in the same position as you - obviously stating that they need to be refurbished before use or spare only.
 
The seized one had been refurbed just under 3 years ago believe it or not!

Are you suggesting the caliper could just be defective? This is what I bought:

New caliper
 
Having to help the return spring by hand is not right. Is the cable preventing return somehow? You should be able to actuate the lever on the caliper with pliers or similar and see the piston “ratchet” it’s way out to take up any play between the disc, pads, caliper and piston.


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Having to help the return spring by hand is not right. Is the cable preventing return somehow? You should be able to actuate the lever on the caliper with pliers or similar and see the piston “ratchet” it’s way out to take up any play between the disc, pads, caliper and piston.


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Piston just wont move in...I'm assuming its something I've done given my experience here but its not obvious.

Could I have just another dodgy caliper?
 
Disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper and operate the hand brake part directly on the caliper, all should move correctly and return correctly, if so it has to be the cables at fault. If not could be BOTH the caliper and cables. Are you 100% sure of the brake bleeding?
 
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