Headlight switch removal ?.

Looks good but do the icons line up with the actual functions now. Usually the auto switches have an extra position. O still off, sidelights now Auto, headlights now sidelights and no marking for the new headlights and do the tell tales all work correctly?
This is my switch after the swap.

WP_20190419_19_38_29_Pro.jpg


The chrome surround ( separate part I fitted ) finishes off the cut edge and matches the instrument chrome rings.
 
Yes, but for me that does not matter.

The knob is not flush with the original facia also. So you can not push&twist knob to pull the switch out, so the «hooks» have been removed
 
The new knob looks very classy, what Audi should have mounted in the first place really.
 
Does anyone know if the switch (or any other headlight switches) can be programmed to have front parklights on when engine is running?

Now the lights are completely off when running in daylight; that is not legal in Norway. Parklights is minimum in daylight (ref. modern cars with DRL)

Also the programming is completely Chinese. Literally.
 
Your old switch had DRL? There is a pin on the switch loom for DRL (TFL) but thought that would have already been wired up. So you now need to get power to that contact with ign on. Does the new SWITCH have the DRL pin, if not that is what will need to either be fitted or a suitable external source found. Perhaps running extra led DRL's may be of interest
 
The knob is not flush with the original facia also. So you can not push&twist knob to pull the switch out, so the «hooks» have been removed

I'm at last sorting out my original coming home switch to add a LED for the rear fogs. The earlier photos in this thread by Special edition are very helpful :)

Ref removing the hooks. What will then keep the headlight unit in place? Is there a risk of it coming loose (it can't fall down as the loom is fairly short) Does anyone who has fitted these have a solution?

Thanks
 
If you fit the complete new switch including the bezel and a chrome ring there is enough interference between the inner diameter of the chrome ring and the exterior diameter of the switch to hold it in the flush position as my picture above. Alternatively you can fully fit the switch home into the dash using the locking pawls but the cut front diameter of the surround will be exposed. Either way there is no need to remove the pawls.
My switch has been in there a while and has not moved at all. It is easier to remove the whole surround with the switch still in place then separate them afterwards.
If it is the slightly earlier version i.e. non bluetooth you could look at the thread I wrote about retrofitting a LED tell tale for the rear fogs on those switches.
 
Thanks guys for clarifying the housing will stay in place with friction. Just been looking at an old housing and was thinking maybe glue the chrome ring to the surround so that the switch can push back and release the paws.

Extra thank you to audifan for the link to his post. Save's me having to figure it out :)
 
@Alan_uk Think you will end up with a gap if you push the switch all the way back as the chrome ring is not deep enough from what I remember. I have used no glue what so ever it is all nice friction fit. It does look more OEM being flush to the front face.

From my other thread about fitting the chrome bezel you can see a gap around the switch when it is mounts in the original locations....

 
I'm at last sorting out my original coming home switch to add a LED for the rear fogs. The earlier photos in this thread by Special edition are very helpful :)

Ref removing the hooks. What will then keep the headlight unit in place? Is there a risk of it coming loose (it can't fall down as the loom is fairly short) Does anyone who has fitted these have a solution?

Thanks

Yes stays in place; no issues at all
 
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