Hi - New Driver and New A2 owner here...
- Thread starter ReaGeorge
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- gear stick oil cap p0597
Jellybean
A2OC Donor
There are several threads on here about fuels.
It can be awkward to search on here. Easier to go to Google and search A2oc.net FSI fuel, for example. Just use the A2oc.net prefix before any subject.
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It can be awkward to search on here. Easier to go to Google and search A2oc.net FSI fuel, for example. Just use the A2oc.net prefix before any subject.
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Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
I am sure that lead will be good, it should be for the price!
Maybe wise to use a garage for the thermostat, a pity I would say in some sense it is at the novice level, three bolts and an electrical connector but it really is a pig of a job with access. The difficult job is choosing a garage, many will have little or no experience of working on an A2, sometimes better to travel to a garage that has. Having said that your local garage might be fine with skilled experienced mechanics but get an estimate first and stress the fragility of the thermostat housing.
Wait for a VCDS scan.
Andy
@ReaGeorge
Working my way through your list, next the oil filler on top of the engine.
Do not think it should be rock solid, the design will always give some give but it is important to have a good seal else I think it wil throw up faults. It might well be okay but if you want to try and improve matters ...
First have a gentle wiggle of the cap to assess movement and plant fresh in your memory to compare with the after "repair".
Carefully ease out the ribbed spigot on the left of the filler to disconnect the pipe that runs over the the top of the engine. Now twist the filler a fraction of a turn and lift off the engine. Turn upside down and inspect how it gets its grip. You will see two small 'fingers' of sprung steel strips that pull the filler down onto top of the engine to make the seal. As I see it use two pairs of pliers to try and flatten (squash to filler) these 'fingers'. Replace the lot and assess if it is better.
Hope that makes sense, just trying to help.
Andy
PS. They are about £30 new from Crewe Audi on here but you are long way from replacing. Before that the best thing is compare if possible with another FSI and seek opinion of owner or garage. If a scan throws up a code and a loose filler might be the cause of it after other possible causes have been checked or it is visibly leaking oil and the above does not work then replace.
Working my way through your list, next the oil filler on top of the engine.
Do not think it should be rock solid, the design will always give some give but it is important to have a good seal else I think it wil throw up faults. It might well be okay but if you want to try and improve matters ...
First have a gentle wiggle of the cap to assess movement and plant fresh in your memory to compare with the after "repair".
Carefully ease out the ribbed spigot on the left of the filler to disconnect the pipe that runs over the the top of the engine. Now twist the filler a fraction of a turn and lift off the engine. Turn upside down and inspect how it gets its grip. You will see two small 'fingers' of sprung steel strips that pull the filler down onto top of the engine to make the seal. As I see it use two pairs of pliers to try and flatten (squash to filler) these 'fingers'. Replace the lot and assess if it is better.
Hope that makes sense, just trying to help.
Andy
PS. They are about £30 new from Crewe Audi on here but you are long way from replacing. Before that the best thing is compare if possible with another FSI and seek opinion of owner or garage. If a scan throws up a code and a loose filler might be the cause of it after other possible causes have been checked or it is visibly leaking oil and the above does not work then replace.
Last edited:
bretti_kivi
Member
FSI demands 98 RON or higher. See also https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/fsi-buying-help.44116/
Thermostat on FSI is not trivial, it is not just a simple "open / close". I would consider changing the housing at the same time. The plastic gets brittle with age and temperature (the system runs at 110C, not 90).
- Bret
ReaGeorge
Member
Thanks, Andrew, sounds like it's not too much of an issue and not too bad of a "fix" I'll have a look at it again as I work through my"A2 To-Do List"
@Bargepower very kindly stopped over to check out my "new" A2 and perform a VCDS scan, his findings are as follows:
I'm happy to see there doesn't seem to be much to report from his VCDS scan. Only one code that I notice there to do with the brake pressure sensor G201, is this something I need to attend to and is it an easy swap for a new sensor?
Interestingly nothing seemed to come up regarding the thermostat although, as he said while monitoring the engine while running there are some anomalous readings, I'm not sure if this pertains to the thermostat or temp sensor, I've dropped him a message to clarify.
If I need to replace the thermostat I've gotten a quote from a mechanic that will do it for £170 (inc. parts and labour) which I can handle.
ReaGeorge
Member
Good Afternoon @ReaGeorge,
I echo Ian's comment, your FSI is trurning out to be (amazingly) in quite good health, a good buy. Previous owners must have looked after it and no P1031 error (inlet manifold problem) which is very good, most likely used 99 RON petrol as you must do, but still give a dose of injector cleaner at next fill up.
Only thing to attend to is the coolant temperature sensor, if you replace the thermostat as well is up to you. A temperature sensor will only add a few pounds to the reasonable £170 estimate you have for thermostat, it's next to the thermostat so next to no extra work. Often said for sensors it is best use OEM replacement, you can buy Audi from Crewe Audi on here while I myself went for a Mahle thermostat on the grounds I have evidence they were the original Audi suppliers, but if your garage will accept customer supplied parts is another matter.
Kind gesture by Ian to monitor the temperature sender for you and the scan which was good to see, seeing is believing. I wonder if the A/C system will report nothing now Ian has cleared the codes.
Other points briefly.
I would leave the oil filler, no air leaks are showing on scan.
First port of call with the gearstick problem is cable adjustment, maybe ask the garage to look at it while in for the sensor.
Get VCDS Lite, run the car for a bit after garage work and run another scan.
Radio not working is unusual, THE man to fix it is Tom(Timmus) who can can also upgrade to whatever extras you require, sound him out via PM.
Enjoy the FSI.
Andy
I echo Ian's comment, your FSI is trurning out to be (amazingly) in quite good health, a good buy. Previous owners must have looked after it and no P1031 error (inlet manifold problem) which is very good, most likely used 99 RON petrol as you must do, but still give a dose of injector cleaner at next fill up.
Only thing to attend to is the coolant temperature sensor, if you replace the thermostat as well is up to you. A temperature sensor will only add a few pounds to the reasonable £170 estimate you have for thermostat, it's next to the thermostat so next to no extra work. Often said for sensors it is best use OEM replacement, you can buy Audi from Crewe Audi on here while I myself went for a Mahle thermostat on the grounds I have evidence they were the original Audi suppliers, but if your garage will accept customer supplied parts is another matter.
Kind gesture by Ian to monitor the temperature sender for you and the scan which was good to see, seeing is believing. I wonder if the A/C system will report nothing now Ian has cleared the codes.
Other points briefly.
I would leave the oil filler, no air leaks are showing on scan.
First port of call with the gearstick problem is cable adjustment, maybe ask the garage to look at it while in for the sensor.
Get VCDS Lite, run the car for a bit after garage work and run another scan.
Radio not working is unusual, THE man to fix it is Tom(Timmus) who can can also upgrade to whatever extras you require, sound him out via PM.
Enjoy the FSI.
Andy
ReaGeorge
Member
Thanks @Andrew ,
This is reassuring. Can you suggest a particular injector cleaner I should try (I have no experience or knowledge of this stuff really)
I've been wondering now whether to have the thermostat changed, I don't fancy spending 170 quid if all that needs changing is the sensor,
What I am thinking instead is just having the car serviced and asking them to add on the sensor replacement and taking a look at the gears.
I was grateful to Ian for spending the time to drop by and do the scan. The code (P0597) that showed up with my OBDII scanner was cleared but after a small amount of driving it did indeed return again.
The Radio does work actually, it's the CD player (which comes through all scrambled up) and the Tape player that doesn't seem to work properly.
While we're on the sound system... the rear speakers seem to make a slight noise when the system is turned off, is this common and something I can do about?
I had a new set of GoodYear Efficient Grip Performance tyres put on the front the other day, I haven't been out on them yet as I've been attempting to restore my headlights. (Removed them sanded them from 600 grit up, gave them a clear coat, polish and wax. The driver side had been cracked at some point so has some wear on the inside unfortunately but I sealed it with some silicone the passenger side is pretty good).
While the wheels were off I was having a closer look at the front breaks. The pads look fairly new but the same can't be said for the rotors. I'm wondering if it's worth removing them and giving them a dip in some rust remover or if they just need replacing...
I suppose this thread is getting a bit long as an introduction now, not sure what the protocol is, should I continue to post in other sections as I get on with my FSI?...
This is reassuring. Can you suggest a particular injector cleaner I should try (I have no experience or knowledge of this stuff really)
I've been wondering now whether to have the thermostat changed, I don't fancy spending 170 quid if all that needs changing is the sensor,
What I am thinking instead is just having the car serviced and asking them to add on the sensor replacement and taking a look at the gears.
I was grateful to Ian for spending the time to drop by and do the scan. The code (P0597) that showed up with my OBDII scanner was cleared but after a small amount of driving it did indeed return again.
The Radio does work actually, it's the CD player (which comes through all scrambled up) and the Tape player that doesn't seem to work properly.
While we're on the sound system... the rear speakers seem to make a slight noise when the system is turned off, is this common and something I can do about?
I had a new set of GoodYear Efficient Grip Performance tyres put on the front the other day, I haven't been out on them yet as I've been attempting to restore my headlights. (Removed them sanded them from 600 grit up, gave them a clear coat, polish and wax. The driver side had been cracked at some point so has some wear on the inside unfortunately but I sealed it with some silicone the passenger side is pretty good).
While the wheels were off I was having a closer look at the front breaks. The pads look fairly new but the same can't be said for the rotors. I'm wondering if it's worth removing them and giving them a dip in some rust remover or if they just need replacing...
I suppose this thread is getting a bit long as an introduction now, not sure what the protocol is, should I continue to post in other sections as I get on with my FSI?...
bretti_kivi
Member
nothing wrong with that picture if the wear isn't excessive. Will take a few stops to get performance to where it should be, but that's normal if the car sits for any length of time.
- Bret
- Bret
Hi @ReaGeorge,
Lots of things you bring up, I will split over different posts.
I have no great knowledge of injector cleaners except it is good practice to use occasionally. No idea how occasionally, I put it say three times a year, but there again I don't do many miles per year but some is infinitely better than none. Virtually anywhere sells it, larger Sainsbury's do Carlube at £5, Tesco & Morrisions do Redex at £2, toolstation at £3.50, larger garages etc. I use Sainsbury's for convenience to avoid a special trip to a car parts shop, it would take the best part of an hour. I suspect it is a case of 'you get what you pay for', if pushed on a recommendation I would go for Wynns at say Halfords at £8.50, Wynns products are very respected. maybe others can offer an opinion.
Make sure it is for petrol!
Andy
Lots of things you bring up, I will split over different posts.
I have no great knowledge of injector cleaners except it is good practice to use occasionally. No idea how occasionally, I put it say three times a year, but there again I don't do many miles per year but some is infinitely better than none. Virtually anywhere sells it, larger Sainsbury's do Carlube at £5, Tesco & Morrisions do Redex at £2, toolstation at £3.50, larger garages etc. I use Sainsbury's for convenience to avoid a special trip to a car parts shop, it would take the best part of an hour. I suspect it is a case of 'you get what you pay for', if pushed on a recommendation I would go for Wynns at say Halfords at £8.50, Wynns products are very respected. maybe others can offer an opinion.
Make sure it is for petrol!
Andy
damadgeruk
A2OC Donor
As @bretti_kivi said, discs look fine, try using them on a quiet section of road where safe to do so, they'll soon look good.
New tyres should be on the rear axle, no need to take my word on this as Google will confirm (it amazes me that tyre fitters rarely mention this, seemingly they'd prefer you crashed than spend 10 minutes putting the tyres in the correct locations).
New tyres should be on the rear axle, no need to take my word on this as Google will confirm (it amazes me that tyre fitters rarely mention this, seemingly they'd prefer you crashed than spend 10 minutes putting the tyres in the correct locations).
ReaGeorge
Member
I wasn't too worried about the rotor faces, it was more the build up at the edges that the pads won't rub away, if it is just cosmetic and the rotors have plenty of life left in them I might fancy having a go at cleaning them up.
Thats interesting regarding tires. The fronts definitely needed replacing they were pretty much on the legal limit. The rears have really good tread but I'll probably replace them early next year regardless as they have been on there for some time now. Going forward I was planning to rotate them so they wear more evenly and would then be replaced as a set of 4 instead of 2s.
Thats interesting regarding tires. The fronts definitely needed replacing they were pretty much on the legal limit. The rears have really good tread but I'll probably replace them early next year regardless as they have been on there for some time now. Going forward I was planning to rotate them so they wear more evenly and would then be replaced as a set of 4 instead of 2s.
damadgeruk
A2OC Donor
Going by the photo, disc has purely cosmetic issues. Much as it's good to have evenly worn tyres, the rears do little more than stop the exhaust hitting the road (and stop the rear overtake the front on corners). ? It's not easy to wear front and rear evenly(I see little point as you'll always end up with better traction on the front which isn't recommended).
FWIW, my preference is new on the rear which puts rears to front every 12ish thousand miles (I rarely get much more out the fronts, though I don't often go below 3mm. Legal minimum of 1.6mm isn't a safe limit IMO, certainly not in Scotland due to the rain).
I repeat due to access changing the FSI coolant sensor is no 5 minute job, to gain an understanding of the work involved in your 'all that needs changing' have a look at Sarge's, (a longer standing and very experienced member), 'How To' here.
I have no knowledge of OBDII and why it picks up P0597 and VCDS does not, but it is not uncommon for a diagnostic not to pick up thermostat/sensor fault. Unless there is a clear electrical fault the ECU sees a sensor reported temperature and assumes it is true, it has no way of knowing the sensor is failing and lying and acts on what it sees changing engine function accordingly.
Your A2 will most likely run better when fixed as well as saving money on petrol.
Andy
I do not have the same as you with the tape player and can only repeat my earlier advice regarding contacting Tom(Timmus) regarding the faults and your required upgrades, but he is away for a few weeks. Slight noise from the rear speakers when turning off sounds very odd, the unit seems to be on its way out, easier enough to replace, have a look in the 'Marketplace' on here for a economical replacement. A picture will confirm what you have.
Andy
PlasticMac
Member
Generic readers will allocate a code/description that is a "best guess" The reader only picks up a few characters, the text is generated from the reader's in built "library" not from the car, so, can be miss leading, or even irrelevant. Best to stick with vcds as guidance. If vcds doesn't flag it up, forget it.
P0597 may relate to climate control on other Audi models, but I don't think it has any relevance to your A2. Certainly not enough to start changing sensors!
Mac.
Hi Mac,
There is evidence (higher in thread), provided by Ian(Bargepower) who monitored temperatures with VCDS that all is not well.
Andy
PlasticMac
Member
Thanks for putting me right @Andrew Sorry, missed that. I guess that as long as the sensors report a valid temperature, VCDS does not see an error. Odd that ensor is electrically OK, but giving incorrect temp. Worth cleaning the connector do you think? Given the temps @Bargepower saw, I'd leave the thermostat alone for now.
Mac.