How to clean the 1.4 16v throttle body

Some comments for those considering throttle body cleaning

Hi All,
I have now done this successfully. If you are considreing to go for this and follow the tutorial I want to highlight following:

1. Before touching the throttle body, i.e., removing the 4 bolts that fix the unit make sure you have a new gasket to replace the old one! New gaskets are inexpensive (mine was 5 e from a local dealer) so there's no reason to try with the worn gasket. Unfortunately I don't have the part number to give but your dealer can find it for you. You can check how the adhesive looks like from the attached picture here: http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?17546-Lumpy-tick-over&p=134095&highlight=#post134095

2. Calibration guide in the how to pdf is not precisely explained. Most importantly once "Go" has been pressed you need to press the button [Switch to basic settings] from the bottom left corner to actually start the calibration. For calibration use the guide from Ross-Tech here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/throttlebody.html If you don't have access for VagCom please consider twice if you really want to go for the cleaning process: Without calibration idle running can be very rough and car is not performing properly! I was not able to calibrate just by removing the connection to the battery as indicated in the howto.

3. In my car the size of the correct torx key was number 20 and not 25.

4. Be prepared to have something better for the 4-bolt switching job than a simple hexagonal L-shaped key shown in the picture of the howto. Fastening the bolts with such a key is unnecessarily difficult. Short screw driver with the hexagonal head should perform better.
 
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2. Calibration guide in the how to pdf is not precisely explained. Most importantly once "Go" has been pressed you need to press the button [Switch to basic settings] from the bottom left corner to actually start the calibration. For calibration use the guide from Ross-Tech here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/throttlebody.html If you don't have access for VagCom please consider twice if you really want to go for the cleaning process: Without calibration idle running can be very rough and car is not performing properly! I was not able to calibrate just by removing the connection to the battery as indicated in the howto.

You are right about this. the english translation is missing a vital piece of detail (clicking switch to basic settings) as without this it is not re-calibrated at all. I have also had a problem with another VAG car after cleaning the throttle body where running was rough at idle until the step listed above is under taken.

Cheers Rob.
 
Personally, I've not had any problems without recalibrating. Obviously, YMMV.... hmm. Will have to edit the translation.

Bret
 
Yeah, like I say my A2 was fine without re-calibrating but another car was different. I think it may depend on how dirty the throttle body was and how long it had been dirty. The car must adapt and learn throttle body angles over time and the sudden change to a clean throttle body obviously sometimes confuses it without a re cal.

Rob.
 
That is probably true it's dependent how dirty throttle body is. Mine was totally black from the inside. I haven't seen another one to compare but I would say that was very dirty.
 
FYI...

Throttle Body Gasket for 1.4 BBY (and I would assume it's the same for the other 1.4 engines too):
W036 133 161 C N/STK GASKET £3.60 inc. vat (price: 21/04/2017 from an Audi dealer)
I'd avoid ebay sellers, as they're literally doubling the price.


Edit: 27/04/2012

Have completed the throttle body clean yesterday and found that the above guide is missing some pretty useful and crucial information that could help people do this much more easily.

1. After you have undone the torx screw holding the air inlet (large black plastic tube) as well as the pipe clamp (on the left hand side as you look at it - goes to the air filter) and are then trying to undo the jubilee clip, you are meant to simply "pull it off the throttle body"... well, that's easier said than done because there are other fixtures holding it in place! Behind the "black plastic tube" air intake, there are two lugs. These are rubber mounted and are basically two plastic pins (fixed to the car) that go through two rubber grommets. It is MUCH easier when pulling up on the pipe going onto the throttle body to try to pull these up at the same time. You need to put quite a bit of force into it, but it does come off with a pop. When refitting them, simply push down as hard as you can, and they'll pop back on.

2. It is worth mentioning the orientation of the jubilee clip that goes over the pipe onto the throttle body is a pain to get to if it is oriented the wrong way round. If the screw is on the left hand side of the throttle body, it is very difficult to get to. Once you have removed it, I strongly suggest turning it around, which means it is far more easily accessible from the back. If you imagine it; as you look at the throttle body, the screw for the jubilee clip should be on the right. MUCH easier for next time!

3. It's all very well cleaning the throttle body with butterfly itself, but what about the bit that it attaches to?! Stuff a piece of throwaway rag into the hole and clean the area the throttle body attaches to just at thoroughly as you have on the other part. In some ways, this is almost more important as there are a couple of little tubes that go off in a couple of directions, which, if clogged up, won't help the running either. Mine was just as bad, if not worse than the throttle body itself. A much better tip, is to use carburettor cleaner rather than acetone - and wear goggles as most carb cleaners have powerful aerosols (more powerful than you'd expect). Don't forget to remove the scrap of rag from the hole when you're finished, with luck when you pull it out, you will drag out any rubbish that fell in while cleaning.

4. The modern and current throttle body gasket is metal (not card type). It's worth putting a little oil or similar over the surface to ease the fit. These are also a once only use gasket as there is a flange that is compressed upon tightening. So NEVER reuse the same gasket. For the sake of a couple of pounds, change it.

5. I disagree with Jupis' comment about using hex and screwdriver rather than an allen key. Space is very tight, and having read that comment I tried (in vain) with several different allen key sockets and screwdriver extensions and universal joints etc. In the end, I used an allen key and it was much easier (though still tight for space obviously)!

6. Be aware that when you remove the black plastic tube thing, you may dislodge wiring clips, they usually just push together but it's worthwhile checking just in case. They were put there for a reason after all!

7. If you read through the above, you'd be forgiven for becoming a little confused about what and how to do it with VAGCOM as there are apparently steps missing from the original version and then there are references to use the steps from Ross-Tech but if you go to their link, there are several different instructions for different engines. This is the defnitive one for 1.4 Audi A2s:

Procedure for performing a Throttle Body (TB) Alignment on DBW Cars using KWP-1281:
(Check to see if the engine speaks KWP-1281 by looking in the top left of the Open Controller Screen Some examples of KWP-1281 engine controllers are 2000+ Golf/GTI/Jetta/New Beetle/Audit TT 1.8T)

1. Plug in the VAGCOM OBD2 cable, and turn the key on (ignition 1) but do not start the car.

In VAGCOM:
2. [Select]
3. [01 - Engine]
4. [Measuring Blocks - 08]
5. (Type) 060 into the first 'Group' box
6. [Go!]
7a. [Switch to basic settings]

7b. Once you do this you will see the top right display (column 4) say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you press 'switch to basic settings'. You will see the values (in the first three columns) change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop.
7c. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds. (And until the 4th column says ADP OK)
8. [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

9. Turn off the ignition, remove VAGCOM cable etc. and wait 30 seconds.
10. Start car.

N.B. I use VAGCOM 409.1-S but I believe the procedure to be the same in all VAGCOM versions.
 
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FYI...

3. It's all very well cleaning the throttle body with butterfly itself, but what about the bit that it attaches to?! Stuff a piece of throwaway rag into the hole and clean the area the throttle body attaches to just at thoroughly as you have on the other part. In some ways, this is almost more important as there are a couple of little tubes that go off in a couple of directions, which, if clogged up, won't help the running either. Mine was just as bad, if not worse than the throttle body itself. A much better tip, is to use carburettor cleaner rather than acetone - and wear goggles as most carb cleaners have powerful aerosols (more powerful than you'd expect). Don't forget to remove the scrap of rag from the hole when you're finished, with luck when you pull it out, you will drag out any rubbish that fell in while cleaning.

Good tip, sticking rag in hole and cleaning below throttle body, I used a hover to make sure all the loose bits were removed before pulling the rag from the hole.

Worked a treat.

The throttle body was very dirty and the carbon it is very well stuck on, next time I need to find a better cleaning fuild, petrol, brake cleaner and WD40 all made hard work of it. I will try carb cleaner next time around.

Car fired up 1st time but reved a little high, I left it on tick over and it calibrated its self slowy reducing revs then set a nice tickover idle. idle is now rock soild and stable so all good.
 
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Just done mine. Thanks for all the good info. I changed all three gaskets in the system. The lower two on the intermediate apiece between the manifold and the throttle body.
My throttle body was not too dirty but a good clean and recalibrate and we shall see if the "bank 1 too lean" re-appears.
I Notice that the bolts for the throttle body are anchored in the plastic inlet manifold not sure I like that idea. the potential for an over torque and pulled/cracked fixings is quite high. It took quite a lot of torque to undo them!
Getting the inlet trunking out proved a bit of a challenge, and even bigger problems reinstalling. Some electrical connectors need undoing temporarily to facilitate this.( I extracted it to the left side of the bay)
A great write up and the only problem is two dropped Allen keys in the under-tray!
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but the links to these guides seem to no longer be working. Does anybody have an alternative link, or a copy they could reshare?
 
Hi everyone! I haven't posted before but have used this site as the go to site since obtaining my A2 1.6FSI SE. I've had a few problems with it including the revs going up and down when the engine is idling. Initially I thought it was the MASS sensor because that was where my diagnostic app (Torque) pointed me. I replaced that at a cost of £125 only to find the rev problem persisted. I then read on here it could be the throttle body. I should say at this point my understanding of the electronics on modern cars is very limited. After reading this thread I decided I should clean the throttle body in the vain hope it would solve the problem. I followed the guide to the tee until it came to disconnecting the two tubes. I wasn't sure what these tubes were for so decided to try and clean the throttle body unbolted but in-situ. I did the best I could with the limited space available. I put it back together and the effect was a greatly improved idle speed. This lasted about a week so I bit the bullet and repeated the procedure and this time I carefully removed the throttle body from the tubes. This meant I could clean the throttle body more thoroughly. I used throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush. This seemed to work for the majority of the gunk. However, I switched to a piece of green plastic scourer and throttle body cleaner for the more stubborn areas. After a real blast of throttle body cleaner to get rid of any small debris I put it all back together. It fired up great and was soon idling as it should. I took it out for a spin to warm it up and it all seems to have done the trick.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank all that have contributed to this site. It has made my life a little easier for sure.
 
Some comments for those considering throttle body cleaning

Hi All,
I have now done this successfully. If you are considreing to go for this and follow the tutorial I want to highlight following:

1. Before touching the throttle body, i.e., removing the 4 bolts that fix the unit make sure you have a new gasket to replace the old one! New gaskets are inexpensive (mine was 5 e from a local dealer) so there's no reason to try with the worn gasket. Unfortunately I don't have the part number to give but your dealer can find it for you. You can check how the adhesive looks like from the attached picture here: http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?17546-Lumpy-tick-over&p=134095&highlight=#post134095

2. Calibration guide in the how to pdf is not precisely explained. Most importantly once "Go" has been pressed you need to press the button [Switch to basic settings] from the bottom left corner to actually start the calibration. For calibration use the guide from Ross-Tech here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/throttlebody.html If you don't have access for VagCom please consider twice if you really want to go for the cleaning process: Without calibration idle running can be very rough and car is not performing properly! I was not able to calibrate just by removing the connection to the battery as indicated in the howto.

3. In my car the size of the correct torx key was number 20 and not 25.

4. Be prepared to have something better for the 4-bolt switching job than a simple hexagonal L-shaped key shown in the picture of the howto. Fastening the bolts with such a key is unnecessarily difficult. Short screw driver with the hexagonal head should perform better.

I recently cleaned my throttle body and found if you remove the pipework back to and including the MASS sensor it was a piece of cake undoing the 4 bolts retaining the throttle body. It gives you so much space you can use a 1/4" drive ratchet with short extension. To remove said pipework I found a pair of mole grips or pipe wrench worked a treat to open the clips and put them back into position. I hope this helps
BillBodger
 
Hi everyone! I haven't posted before but have used this site as the go to site since obtaining my A2 1.6FSI SE. I've had a few problems with it including the revs going up and down when the engine is idling. Initially I thought it was the MASS sensor because that was where my diagnostic app (Torque) pointed me. I replaced that at a cost of £125 only to find the rev problem persisted. I then read on here it could be the throttle body. I should say at this point my understanding of the electronics on modern cars is very limited. After reading this thread I decided I should clean the throttle body in the vain hope it would solve the problem. I followed the guide to the tee until it came to disconnecting the two tubes. I wasn't sure what these tubes were for so decided to try and clean the throttle body unbolted but in-situ. I did the best I could with the limited space available. I put it back together and the effect was a greatly improved idle speed. This lasted about a week so I bit the bullet and repeated the procedure and this time I carefully removed the throttle body from the tubes. This meant I could clean the throttle body more thoroughly. I used throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush. This seemed to work for the majority of the gunk. However, I switched to a piece of green plastic scourer and throttle body cleaner for the more stubborn areas. After a real blast of throttle body cleaner to get rid of any small debris I put it all back together. It fired up great and was soon idling as it should. I took it out for a spin to warm it up and it all seems to have done the trick.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank all that have contributed to this site. It has made my life a little easier for sure.
Welcome.

Good to hear your efforts have been rewarded.

Cheap diagnostic aides generally are a waste of time, give red herring diagnosis leading to grief. VCDS Lite is a way to go, okay registered £75ish but you would now be £60 'up'.

Andy
 
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Welcome.

Good to hear your efforts have been rewarded.

Cheap diagnostic aides generally are a waste of time, give red herring diagnosis leading to grief. VCDS Lite is a way to go, okay registered £75ish but you would now be £60 'up'.

Andy
We live and learn
 
I’ve got vcds lite but don’t use it in favour of a maxi scan VAG405. Specifically designed for pre 2005 VAG cars I find it quicker to use and very accurate. I’m not sure they make them anymore but can be found on eBay for around £30.
 
Does someone know a relatively easy way to clean the tube under the throttle body? It looks as bad as the throttle body itself.
 

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