How-to, remove and install an A2 radiator

[Little Dog]

I still need to add some pictures and check tool sizes, this comment will be removed when the guide is complete

How-to, remove and install an A2 radiator, Part 1.

This how to provides the procedures for removing a radiator from, and installing a radiator in, an A2 TDi (AMF engine) with air-conditioning.

Required tools

The following tools are required to complete this job cleanly and effectively:

A large drip tray to collect coolant drained from the radiator

Door panel removal tool, for removing wiring harness clips

Hose clip pillars VAG 1921

Difficult access hose clip pillars (only required if clips are positioned such that VAG 1921 can’t be used)

¼ drive bit adapter, Torx T30 and Philips PH1 bits required

¼ drive ratchet, extension and T bar

3/8 drive spline bits (M10 required)

3/8 drive extension and T bar

Picture

Remove the front bumper cover

Follow the instructions in How-to remove a front bumper cover; https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/how-to-remove-an-a2-front-bumper-cover.47579/.

If you own a TDi with air con you A2 will look like this,

Drain the radiator

Position a large tray under the radiator lower hose and detach the hose.

Remove the expansion tank cap to maximise flow. Once drained, store the coolant in a sealed container if it is to be reused or seal in a container for safe disposal at a local recycling center.

While under the car

Detach the lower intercooler pipe and plug with rags to prevent dirt ingress.

Remove the lower two screws (T30) securing the radiator to fan cowl.

In the engine bay

Left and right in this section are left and right of the repairer looking at the front of the car.

Unplug the electrical connector to the intake pressure sender on the intercooler.

Remove the air intake hose from the intercooler

Detach the radiator top hose and remove the upper two screws (T30) securing the radiator to fan cowl

 

[Little Dog]

How-to remove and install an A2 radiator, Part 2.

At front of car

Unplug the horn and remove two screws (T30) securing the upper reinforcement bar. Lever off 4 clips that help secure the lower reinforcing bar to space frame, the remove 4 M10 spline screws and remove lower reinforcement bar.

Detach connector at condenser high pressure sender and also the ambient temperature sender from bracket on lower air duct

Remove harness from right hand air duct. All of the holders were brittle and were in poor condition for refitting. Replacements were expensive at £X each. VAG part N 911 159 01 was cheaper at 70p and could be trimmed to the correct size. This picture illustrates the removal method and the new black holders.

Picture

Unscrew 6 screws (Ph1) and remove air ducts

The damaged screw removers were required on more than one occasion; the joy of working on an 18 year old car.

Remove 4 screws (T30) securing condenser to radiator and pull condenser outwards slightly and forwards on left hand side to give access to intercooler and radiator assembly. Do not remove the screws securing the intercooler to radiator, I thought it may make removal easier, it doesn't.

Lubricate intercooler rubber mounts, push the intercooler and radiator to the right and disengage the intercooler from the rubber mounts. You have to push the intercooler right, squash the rubber bung, and pull the plastic left. It does come out.

The intercooler and radiator can now be removed from behind the condenser.

Remove 4 screws (T30) securing intercooler to radiator and separate the two components.

 

[Little Dog]

Installing an A2 radiator

Installation is the reversal of the removal process. Screw torques are as follows but I tightened by feel.

Torque table with screw size.

I would recommend that once the radiator is in position the hoses are connected and the expansion tank topped up with premixed coolant. If there are any leaks there is less to strip down to undertake rework.

There is a bleed screw on the radiator top hose, loosen it until coolant weeps out. Some diesels have a second bleed screw on the heater matrix feed pipe. My car does not have this bleed screw but I would think it logical to bleed the lowest screw first.

Top up the expansion tank to the indicated level. The cooling system should now be pressurised to approximately one bar. If pressure holds there are no leaks and assembly can continue. I also road tested, taking account of legal requirements, before replacing the bumper cover.

I had taken the opportunity to replace engine bay hoses and flush the engine and heater matrix. My cooling system was empty so I applied vacuum to check for leaks

The hoses collapse and if vacuum is held then there are no leaks.

By switching to a bucket of premixed coolant, 6 Lt minimum, atmospheric pressure forces coolant into the cooling system.

Bleed the system at the top hose and top up the expansion tank. Reassembly can now continue to road test. If possible, and taking into account legal requirements, road test before fitting the bumper cover. That way any corrective work is easier.

Fit bumper cover, job done.

 

[Erlingtheyounger]

Absolutely fantastic resource Phil. Much kudos for putting it together. All it’s missing is the expletives when trying to get to some of the more troublesome fixings. Great work ??

 

[Little Dog]

Absolutely fantastic resource Phil. Much kudos for putting it together. All it’s missing is the expletives when trying to get to some of the more troublesome fixings. Great work ??

Thank you and yes the damaged screw extractor was used more than once; the head snapped off one screw. That one had to be drilled out and the hole rawl plugged. Audi don't do the fixings anymore so you have to search on eBay for equivalents. All of the harness locators had gone brittle and weren't reusable; I'll look up the part number for the harness locator, the A2 part is £X each but I got an alternative VAG clip at 70p each that I could trim to the correct size.