How-to repair / restore your Audi A2 rear axle

I found lots of options for Febi 29664 earlier today, about £20 each on eBay. I paid £20 for two two years ago.
Yes on ebay there are still lots available - especially in uk. For me is 30+30+20.

But usually this is the start of parts being set out of production. It was the same with other parts. Hopefully there will be alternatives.
 
Yes on ebay there are still lots available - especially in uk. For me is 30+30+20.

But usually this is the start of parts being set out of production. It was the same with other parts. Hopefully there will be alternatives.
Yes and the cars are still here very functional and will not rust away.
 
I installed MEYLE 1147100001/S

In case someone else is looking for replacement.

They work great. Only the bolts cannot be used from the kit - but the nuts are a good replacement.
 
I installed MEYLE 1147100001/S

In case someone else is looking for replacement.

They work great. Only the bolts cannot be used from the kit - but the nuts are a good replacement.

The Meyle 1147100001/S is for the kit which includes two bolts and two nuts, as shown in the photo below.
1649102448076.png

However, as the two bolts are too long for the Audi A2 it might work out cheaper to go for the Meyle 1147100001 (which doesn't include the two nuts and two bolts) and purchase the two nuts separately if these are required. As standard, the Audi A2 uses M12x1.5 self-locking nuts with separate washers, whereas the VW Polo MK4 uses M12x1.5 self-locking nuts with built-in washers. You can see the difference in the parts diagrams on 7Zap for the Audi A2 and VW Polo MK4 respectively.

Audi A2 rear axle parts diagram on 7Zap

VW Polo MK4 rear axle parts diagram on 7Zap

Meyle 1147100001 (sold to replace 1J0501541C from the VW Polo MK4 instead of 8Z0501541 from the Audi A2)
1649101266523.png


Aftermarket bushes matching the Audi A2 OEM part number 8Z0501541 are still available, but do seem to be priced higher than the VW Polo MK4 equivalents. As you can see from the photo below, the Audi A2 bush has a solid M12 hole in the centre.
1649101721717.png
 
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I believe there is a further difference between the A2 bushes and golf bushes. A2 bushes have larger kidney shaped holes making the bush softer.
This may or may not change the rear ride height slightly. If it does then it would be useful to see by how much so the bush position can be set to compensate.
 
The Meyle 1147100001/S is for the kit which includes two bolts and two nuts, as shown in the photo below.
View attachment 92982
However, as the two bolts are too long for the Audi A2 it might work out cheaper to go for the Meyle 1147100001 (which doesn't include the two nuts and two bolts) and purchase the two nuts separately if these are required. As standard, the Audi A2 uses M12x1.5 self-locking nuts with separate washers, whereas the VW Polo MK4 uses M12x1.5 self-locking nuts with built-in washers. You can see the difference in the parts diagrams on 7Zap for the Audi A2 and VW Polo MK4 respectively.

Audi A2 rear axle parts diagram on 7Zap

VW Polo MK4 rear axle parts diagram on 7Zap

Meyle 1147100001 (sold to replace 1J0501541C from the VW Polo MK4 instead of 8Z0501541 from the Audi A2)
View attachment 92980

Aftermarket bushes matching the Audi A2 OEM part number 8Z0501541 are still available, but do seem to be priced higher than the VW Polo MK4 equivalents. As you can see from the photo below, the Audi A2 bush has a solid M12 hole in the centre.
View attachment 92981

Thanks for the extra research and codes.
(in my case the set with bolts was cheaper than 2 separate ones -- this differs from provider to provider).

Aftermarket bushings for a2 can be found only on ebay...regular parts seller do not sell those anymore - at least in EU.
 
I believe there is a further difference between the A2 bushes and golf bushes. A2 bushes have larger kidney shaped holes making the bush softer.
This may or may not change the rear ride height slightly. If it does then it would be useful to see by how much so the bush position can be set to compensate.
That is true.
The rubber part looks like 20 30% larger than oem.
Honestly...I fell the road a lot from the front suspension.

I like the new rear bushings because in tight cornering the rear stays where it should. I could not feel extra vibrations. The only difference is that the car drives better when cornering.
My original bushings were not broken, only very old. It handles much better with the new ones so I would not care for "oem bushings" when there is a replacement that works very well.
 
How-to repair / restore your Audi A2 rear axle.

First decide what you want to achieve, consider your skills / how much labour you are prepared to fund to correct / restore your A2’s rear axle. There are basically three options each listed below with a brief overview of work involved.

Option 1 – Replace bonded rubber bushes.

Support the axle, remove bush to mounting bolts and lower the axle taking care not to strain ABS sensor cables, brake pipes and parking brake cables. Remove old and fit new bushes.

Reassemble in reverse sequence

Option 2 – Restore rear axle (excluding mounting castings)

Disconnect brake pipes, parking brake cables and ABS sensor cables. Support axle remove damper to axle bolts, lower rear of axle and remove springs. Remove bush to mounting bolts, lower axle and remove from car.

Complete restoration of axle, reassemble in reverse sequence, bleed brakes.

Option 3 – Restore rear axle (including mounting castings)

Disconnect brake pipes, parking brake cables and ABS sensor cables. Support axle remove damper to axle bolts, lower rear of axle and remove springs. Remove 6 mounting bolts, lower axle and remove from car.

Complete restoration of axle, reassemble in reverse sequence, bleed brakes. Arrange for 4 wheel geometry to be checked/ corrected.

Guide purpose

The purpose of this guide is to provide guidance on how to perform option 3, restore rear axle including mounting castings. It also includes details of workarounds for unexpected issues. It is quite rewarding when the repairs are done and your axle is back and on its way to being fully functional again:

View attachment 71732
Nice article. Love the motorcycle lift.
Is there a definitive way to actually diagnose if the rear bushes need replaced ?
Mine don't look pretty but I'm not aware of this affecting the handling or function of my vehicle.

Thanks,

Raymie
 
Nice article. Love the motorcycle lift.
Is there a definitive way to actually diagnose if the rear bushes need replaced ?
Mine don't look pretty but I'm not aware of this affecting the handling or function of my vehicle.

Thanks,

Raymie
Thank you.

The rubber was starting to crack on my bushes and breakaway from the sleeve and central metal part.

The motor bike stand is very useful, used it to support an engine on its sump, to lift and fit a gearbox and fit the rear axle on a second VAG car I own.
 
Removing the bush (part 1)

If you are working on a bench and the intention is to blast and refinish the axle, remove stub axles, back plates, brake pipes pipe clips, hand brake clips etc. Makes the axle easier to handle and takes away the risk of accidentally damaging components. Items that need to be replaced can be on order as work progresses.

Note, the orientation of the bush is important. I recommend taking photographs to record the correct positioning of the bush in the axle before removal. These should be referred to when fitting the new bushes.

If the mounting bracket is still attached to the bush remove the long bolt through the bush along with the mounting bracket. In my case the bolt head and nut were so far gone I had to saw between the nut and the washer beneath it. The bolt then came out very easily and the mounting bracket was removed:

View attachment 71752

Removal by destruction

There is a method of removing the bush that is posted regularly on the internet, drill the rubber from within the bush and then saw through the resin outer sleeve of the bush in two places along the whole length, cuts should be roughly diametrically opposite and be careful not to cut into the steel of the axle. The two halves now knockout.

A quick and dirty method, again regularly reported on the internet, is to burn the rubber with oxy acetylene; not sure about this one but if you go for this method make sure you have PPE and understanding neighbours. Cut the outer resin as above.

There are two things to consider before you go down this route. Firstly the tools that fit the bush also remove the bush, so unless you have a tool that will only fit bushes, the tools you need to buy to fit are also likely to remove and keep the bush in one piece. Secondly keeping the bush in one piece is good if you intend to restore the axle by blasting it. The old bush can be refitted to protect the bush location surfaces of the axle from blasting grit and paint spray or powder coat.

Removing as described in the manual

DIY tools set up to provide the method of removal described in the manual:

View attachment 71753

To set this tool up select the largest sleeve that will pass through the bush location on the axle. It is not possible to select the correct sleeve by measuring the new bush. 71mm suggests a 70mm sleeve would be correct.

View attachment 71754

However the resin bush compresses as it enters the housing so the correct bush is one that just slides inside the bush location.

View attachment 71755

68 mm OD is the correct sleeve

View attachment 71756

Now select the smallest sleeve that the larger diameter end of the bush will slide inside.

View attachment 71762

A large bearing puller clamped to the axle provides a thrust surface for the last sleeve selected.

View attachment 71758

Set it all up around the bush

View attachment 71759

Get the spanners out and start winding, the bushes come out easily when the axle is in good condition.

The next section describes how to remove the bush if the method described in the manual is unsuccessful.
On the bearing puller tool, is there a better way to fit the concave faces. Up to the upper bush for thrust or the other way.
I assume it also bites in between the bush flange and bush casing?
Thanks in advance
 
Audi tradition has the parts (I think), £111 for both with shipping. Lemforder when they were available would have been £60 for both so not too terrible if you want original
 
Audi tradition has the parts (I think), £111 for both with shipping. Lemforder when they were available would have been £60 for both so not too terrible if you want original
Thank you. I have the bushes already, and was going to start the replacements today. Following the excellent guidance from @philward
Just wanted clarification of bearing puller orientation to act as thrust plate.
Replaced the front rear lower wishbone bush yesterday.

Only problem know is that I have misplaced my locking wheelnut TORX key adapter thing, so couldn't get the rear wheel off to start it. :mad::mad::mad::mad:

I will have to put a post up in spares / parts now and get a replacement. So peeved off I was convinced it was in the car, and turned it upside down and its nowhere to be seen 😧😧😧😧
 
On the bearing puller tool, is there a better way to fit the concave faces. Up to the upper bush for thrust or the other way.
I assume it also bites in between the bush flange and bush casing?
Thanks in advance
Sorry Wayne, I don't understand your question.
 
Only problem know is that I have misplaced my locking wheelnut TORX key adapter thing, so couldn't get the rear wheel off to start it. :mad::mad::mad::mad:

I will have to put a post up in spares / parts now and get a replacement. So peeved off I was convinced it was in the car, and turned it upside down and its nowhere to be seen 😧😧😧😧

I've kind of been here, having broken an A2 wheelnut key in half by tightening it when I thought I was loosening it (not my finest moment! :rolleyes: ) From my own research, the key you need won't be a universal part. They have varying numbers of splines, so you basically need someone to be selling another set of locking wheelnuts with the correct key for that approach to work.

However, hope it not yet lost. I believe it was BMW that use/used a similar splined locking wheelnut, so your local garage or tyre factors might already have a set of the various keys and could take your ones off for you. Our resident breakers won't have any problem getting four standard wheelnuts to you ready to replace them. Otherwise there are various locknut removal services who will come out to you, they have various tools but will drill the locknuts off if no joy.
 
The locking wheelnut key you need won't be a universal part. They have varying numbers of splines, so you basically need someone to be selling another set of locking wheelnuts with the correct key.

I believe BMW use/used a similar splined locking wheelnut, so your local garage or tyre factors might already have a set of the various keys and could take your ones off for you. Our resident breakers won't have any problem getting four standard wheelnuts to you ready to replace them. Otherwise there are various locknut removal services who will come out to you, they have various tools but will drill the locknuts off if no joy.

The original A2 locking wheel bolts came with one of ten VAG ABC keys. The keys remain easily available, and the best way to determine which specific key is required is to post a clear photo of the wheel bolt socket.

Using any other keys risks damaging the wheel bolt, and is to be avoided.

It's best to ensure that you have at least two keys, one which lives under the floor in the boot, and a second in your toolbox. I keep a third key in my glovebox.

This eBay seller offers genuine new VAG ABC keys:
 
phil, im swapping out my rusted rear beam, i took one off of a low mile one in the scrappy yesterday, i unconnected everything except the handbrake cables which join together behind the fuel tank, i had to cut them to get the axle off, obviously i don't want to do this on mine, how do you disconnect them from the rear hubs as they just disappear into the hub with a rubber cover on them, cheers
 
phil, im swapping out my rusted rear beam, i took one off of a low mile one in the scrappy yesterday, i unconnected everything except the handbrake cables which join together behind the fuel tank, i had to cut them to get the axle off, obviously i don't want to do this on mine, how do you disconnect them from the rear hubs as they just disappear into the hub with a rubber cover on them, cheers
Hi, take a look at my first post in this thread. There is a picture of the inside of the drum brake. The long silver lever on the right has a spring covered cable running horizontally under the stub axel. That is you parking brake cable, it disconnects at the lever.
 
phil sorry to pester you again, where the springs sit in the bottom of the cup on the beam, the rubbers are rotted, are these what i need to replace them
Screenshot 2023-10-12 at 13.58.51.png
 
phil sorry to pester you again, where the springs sit in the bottom of the cup on the beam, the rubbers are rotted, are these what i need to replace themView attachment 114280

The OEM part number for the rear spring underlay is 8Z0511149A. This is correct for all models of A2. Febi 23412 matches this OEM part number.

Febi 23412 underlay for rear spring (matches 8Z0511149A)
1697126026766.png


Febi 23412 underlay for rear spring £10.72 for two (ie. £5.36 each)
 
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