I bought an A2 1.6 FSI

PlasticMac said:
I suspect they didn't strip the flaps from the spindle, and remove the spindle. My guess is that they removed the plastic crank from the spindle, cleaned the spindle, and fixed the brass crank to the spindle (love to know how).
It's important to remember that whatever method you use, the new crank, with it's potentiometer drive, has to be precisely aligned with the flap position, or there will still be P1031 errors.
My feeling is that the less disassembly, the less difficult that alignment would be.
Mac.
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Yes I agree, probably break old crank arm off and bond new piece on or some kind of mechanical fixing.

I think you worry too much about the position of a new crank arm but for information when the flaps sit open on the port floor under gravity the end of the crank arm sits just short of the main block when installed, kind of shown in my picture in post # 17 and Rabbie's picture in his thread. Anyway isn't that the short if thing basic adaptation sorts out?

Rabbie has not logged in for a year but I will send him a message with questions and with luck it will pop up in his regular email and he will be good enough to answer, I will share any reply.

Your last point, least disassembly would be best but there is no way that rod is coming out with flaps attached.

Cheers.

Andy
 
I think I remember there is a previous post, that showed the correlation between degrees and potentiometer resistance, if so that could be used to check the whole mechanism, off the car.
In (my) theory, with the flaps open, (under spring pressure), the actuator vented, and a correct length link in place, the crank will be in the correct position.
Does this sound right?
Mac.
 
Andrew said:
Yes I agree, probably break old crank arm off and bond new piece on or some kind of mechanical fixing.

I think you worry too much about the position of a new crank arm but for information when the flaps sit open on the port floor under gravity the end of the crank arm sits just short of the main block when installed, kind of shown in my picture in post # 17 and Rabbie's picture in his thread. Anyway isn't that the short if thing basic adaptation sorts out?

Rabbie has not logged in for a year but I will send him a message with questions and with luck it will pop up in his regular email and he will be good enough to answer, I will share any reply.

Your last point, least disassembly would be best but there is no way that rod is coming out with flaps attached.

Cheers.

Andy
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If the old crank could be removed, (by destructive methods), would it need to come out to fit the new crank?
Mac.
 
I tested the actuator vacuum and it works. I didn't check the ride, because I was in a bit of a hurry. but I would like to see it work with the engine running, if I accelerate to idle should it move?
I took the instrument cluster apart to check if it had been tampered to disable the engine light, but I didn't notice any anomalies. The lights under the lights are LED and I have no way to verify if they work or not. however, when starting, the light with the engine drawn does not turn on and does not turn on even when I enter the engine control unit via VCDS.
 
Gorevolution said:
I tested the actuator vacuum and it works. I didn't check the ride, because I was in a bit of a hurry. but I would like to see it work with the engine running, if I accelerate to idle should it move?
I took the instrument cluster apart to check if it had been tampered to disable the engine light, but I didn't notice any anomalies. The lights under the lights are LED and I have no way to verify if they work or not. however, when starting, the light with the engine drawn does not turn on and does not turn on even when I enter the engine control unit via VCDS.
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It will actuate as soon as the engine starts.
The sequence is:
1 Ignition to first position, vacuum is vented, (by solenoid), to ensure the actuator is in it's rest state, flaps down "throttle valve" wide open.
2 Second ignition turn, engine starts, vacuum applied to the actuator, and the flaps rise.
So you need a helper in the drivers seat, while you observe the action!
Worth a tiny blob of paint on the actuator rod, so you can see it move.
Good luck.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
It will actuate as soon as the engine starts.
The sequence is:
1 Ignition to first position, vacuum is vented, (by solenoid), to ensure the actuator is in it's rest state, flaps down "throttle valve" wide open.
2 Second ignition turn, engine starts, vacuum applied to the actuator, and the flaps rise.
So you need a helper in the drivers seat, while you observe the action!
Worth a tiny blob of paint on the actuator rod, so you can see it move.
Good luck.
Mac.
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The flaps then stay raised until about 2,800 rpm.
Mac.
 
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slowly I'm collecting the pieces to be able to replace the lower manifold. Can you confirm whether or not it is necessary to move the engine, otherwise the upper manifold cannot be removed?
 
A2Steve said:
Needs to be dropped off the engine mount and brought forward just as though you were changing the timing belt.
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OK thank you. I wanted to do the job myself in my garage, but it's starting to get too complicated. I will ask my mechanic to do it. Approximately how many hours will it take?
 
Gorevolution said:
OK thank you. I wanted to do the job myself in my garage, but it's starting to get too complicated. I will ask my mechanic to do it. Approximately how many hours will it take?
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On completion, you need to run Basic Setting to "calibrate" the flap movement with the position potentiometer.
Unless the mechanic has done this before, talk it through with him. The vacuum actuator must be locked before reassembly or the linkage and possibly the flaps will be damaged. The vcds setting cannot be done until it's complete.
I'd suggest you download the relavant section of the workshop manual from Erwin (7.50 euros per hour), read and understand it yourself, before talking to the mechanic. Any mistakes and the whole job will need to be repeated.
Mac.
 
ok, I will look for information regarding the calibration of the potentiometer. My mechanic said he remembers replacing manifolds on 1.6 FSI about 15 years ago and should take about 4 hours to do. Do you think this level of cleanliness of the manifold is sufficient? or should I do more?
are the gaskets to be replaced only those between the lower manifold and the head and the upper and lower manifold, or are there others? Are there other parts, such as sensors in unreachable areas, that need to be replaced on this occasion, to avoid having to repeat the work in case they fail in the future?
thank you
 

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Gorevolution said:
ok, I will look for information regarding the calibration of the potentiometer. My mechanic said he remembers replacing manifolds on 1.6 FSI about 15 years ago and should take about 4 hours to do. Do you think this level of cleanliness of the manifold is sufficient? or should I do more?
are the gaskets to be replaced only those between the upper and lower manifold, plus the lower manifold and the head, or are there others? Are there other parts, such as sensors in unreachable areas, that need to be replaced on this occasion, to avoid having to repeat the work in case they fail in the future?
thank you
Click to expand...
 
Here's how to calibrate the manifold, once fitted.
Credit due to @Sarge who posted this long ago:

Turn the key on but do not start the car.
  • [Select]
  • [01 - Engine]
  • [Measuring Blocks - 08]
Enter Group 060

  • [Go!]
  • [Switch to basic settings]

Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.

  • [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

The important thing is that the flaps move smoothly and easily from open, (flaps laying to against the bottom of the manifold), to vertical.
To check this before fitting the manifold assembly, assemble the actuator and linkage, taking care to lock the actuator in the up position, (drill bit or similar pushed through holes in the bracket). Remove once assembled on the bench.
Then fit the vacum tube to the actuator, and suck on the tube, while observing the flap movement.
As long as the inside of the manifold is clean, and there is no fouling of the flaps as they move, all is good to fit the manifold assembly to the engine.
Mac.
 
Gorevolution said:
ok, I will look for information regarding the calibration of the potentiometer. My mechanic said he remembers replacing manifolds on 1.6 FSI about 15 years ago and should take about 4 hours to do. Do you think this level of cleanliness of the manifold is sufficient? or should I do more?
are the gaskets to be replaced only those between the lower manifold and the head and the upper and lower manifold, or are there others? Are there other parts, such as sensors in unreachable areas, that need to be replaced on this occasion, to avoid having to repeat the work in case they fail in the future?
thank you
Click to expand...
Good Evening,

That manifold looks not too bad to me but is the corner of the second flap in your picture bent?

Add to your gasket list the seals for the injectors and consider having the injectors professionally cleaned but this will add a delay to reassembly and cost.

Other things to take the opportunity to look at is replacing the death pipe if appropriate but this might open a can of worms.

Andy
 
PlasticMac said:
Here's how to calibrate the manifold, once fitted.
Credit due to @Sarge who posted this long ago:

Turn the key on but do not start the car.
  • [Select]
  • [01 - Engine]
  • [Measuring Blocks - 08]
Enter Group 060

  • [Go!]
  • [Switch to basic settings]

Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.

  • [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

The important thing is that the flaps move smoothly and easily from open, (flaps laying to against the bottom of the manifold), to vertical.
To check this before fitting the manifold assembly, assemble the actuator and linkage, taking care to lock the actuator in the up position, (drill bit or similar pushed through holes in the bracket). Remove once assembled on the bench.
Then fit the vacum tube to the actuator, and suck on the tube, while observing the flap movement.
As long as the inside of the manifold is clean, and there is no fouling of the flaps as they move, all is good to fit the manifold assembly to the engine.
Mac.
Click to expand...
Here's some info on assembling the manifold, including locking the actuator.
Mac.
 

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Andrew said:
Good Evening,

That manifold looks not too bad to me but is the corner of the second flap in your picture bent?

Add to your gasket list the seals for the injectors and consider having the injectors professionally cleaned but this will add a delay to reassembly and cost.

Other things to take the opportunity to look at is replacing the death pipe if appropriate but this might open a can of worms.

Andy
Click to expand...
before cleaning it was all black (photo attached). I would like to understand if the result I have obtained is sufficient, or if I have to go on cleaning, to get to polish the metal of the inside of the manifold. I had already intended to talk about the injectors with the mechanic, honestly I would be more relaxed if I had them overhauled, albeit at an expense that I would like to avoid. approximately how much could it cost to overhaul the injectors? I bought the death pipe, I'll give it to the mechanic and we'll evaluate what to do together. The flaps inside the manifold are all bent. I am attaching a photo found here on the forum.
 

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That is definitely sufficiently clean. I'm not sure what you are referring to when you say they are bent? They look to be the correct shape to me.
 
A2Steve said:
That is definitely sufficiently clean. I'm not sure what you are referring to when you say they are bent? They look to be the correct shape to me.
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hi Steve and thanks for the feedback. I was replying to Andrew, who had noticed the bent flaps, to point out that they are originally like this.
 
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