I think I’ve reached the end

As soon as daylight arrived, I set to work. Removed the earth strap/cable. It seems ok (I know, school boy error). In the following pictures, the connections to the frame and starter look slightly corroded but unsure if this would have an effect. Is there any way to check/test the cable without slicing the sleeve and opening it up.
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The Colonel said:
As soon as daylight arrived, I set to work. Removed the earth strap/cable. It seems ok (I know, school boy error). In the following pictures, the connections to the frame and starter look slightly corroded but unsure if this would have an effect. Is there any way to check/test the cable without slicing the sleeve and opening it up.
e996d96b8cbb7a0719406a90cbab6a1c.jpg
ccfb8ec81597326e4a7c4e1df27fa96f.jpg
f9654bf9a663f810db651b7a50961f31.jpg





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I'd agree, the connections look OK, if there's an issue I reckon it'll be the crimp(s). Not easy to check the cable, you could try bending it at the crimp as a healthy one will not break off. I'd recommend taking the heat shrink off as I'm of the impression that it does more harm than good.
 
Hi. Just to add something to the mix. I know when i tackled the vacuum actuator arm and the flaps on my fsi. That also had been running with a snapped arm for a while. The egr valve and throttle body were badly gunked up and took a lot of cleaning. Have you taken off the air inlet hose and looked inside throttle body? I know you said you used wynnes egr cleaner but a visual inspection, or removal to clean is best option i think.
Best of luck
Steve
 
This was what mine looked like under the sleeve . BIG PICTURE for you to see.

It looked ok when you looked at it but multiple warning lights on randomly and running rough I split it open . I got a new one from Audi Stoke
48579
 
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Pinkythelabrat said:
You can check if the earth cable is the issue by running a jump lead to both end points. If you start the engine and it’s suddenly much better then suspect the cable or contact points.


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I was going to do that very same thing when I got home.


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I went to Audi guilders in Sheffield to price up an earth cable/strap. £27.05. While there I thought I’d price up a genuine fuel pump, to maybe sort one of the other issues out. £331.00. I guess I’ll stick with no fuel level gauge and the annoying beep until the main issue is sorted.


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Right. Bizarro world. I put an over night charged battery back in the car. Reconnected the earth strap. Tried car, still wouldn’t start. Did short turns as that sometimes works. No start. The battery started to get a bit weaker to connected the wife’s a2 to mine with jump leads. Tried it and after a few coughs, it started.

Any ideas??

Oh, and the weirdest thing...... the fuel gauge is now working. Wether it’s accurate I don’t know, but it’s now off empty.

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Just a quick thought/enquiry. When I connected my car to another a2 via jump leads, it seemed to crank the engine a little faster and the car started. could I possibly have a defective battery. Delivering enough charge to turn it but not fast enough to start it. #clutchingatstraws

Could explain why it’s struggling to start from being stood a while, but after being driven, it starts a little easier.


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Hi
Is the battery a sealed type? How old is battery? Is it the correct rating for your car? If not sealed type inspect the cells they might need topping up(only top up with distilled water). Do you have a voltmeter to test battery? If so disconnect battery volt test take readings then re test the next day.
 
Inside your original service booklet you will find a list of option codes specific for your vehicle. There are online option decoders available. Just type in options and you should find out all the info about your A2 along with correctly battery type.
 
stevec said:
Hi
Is the battery a sealed type? How old is battery? Is it the correct rating for your car? If not sealed type inspect the cells they might need topping up(only top up with distilled water). Do you have a voltmeter to test battery? If so disconnect battery volt test take readings then re test the next day.
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Looking at this, I think that it’s a sealed battery. I can’t see any engravings or marks that might indicate an age. All I’ve found is 27 04 engraved on the negative terminal. If this is 2-7-04 it might be original battery from first registration.
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And check or replace the battery in your wifes A2. Every time a battery drops below 12 volts ( actually slightly higher than that ) it gets slightly damaged. The more often it happens the more the damage to the point where its capacity has been affected enough to appear charged but has no ability to supply a reasonable current, such as cranking over an engine. To prevent this damage run the car or connect a battery conditioner or even a solar charger to keep the voltage and capacity up. Eventually all batteries expire, 8-10 years is about all that can be expected from a battery that was in reasonable condition.
 
I would second those comments. The battery has done really well to have lasted 15years. Make sure you get correct size for car. I replaced mine with a bosch silver from ecp when they had a battery sale on.
 
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