I'm Fffffffeeeezing!

He probably means the air pipe that sends the hot air to the driver’s area.

If the flap is not opening you will have errors saying that when the unit is scanned.

Use this time to run the car with the cap off just for s few minutes I’ver a couple of days. And keep using the car. If you want to try a different climate panel I can send you one free of charge as another straw to clutch. It is worth eliminating that too. The motors and flaps might be working fine but the climate unit might not be sending the signals to operate them????

Steve B
 
Spoke to the garage who can't get me in for another 2 weeks!
I said to him that I'd found that the flaps appear to be opening as they should. He asked about the one in the drivers side footwell. I said I didn't think there was one there?
Aren't they all on the passenger side?
One thing he did say is that although the motor is working and appears to be opening and closing, it might be that something has either blocked the flap or snapped it? Is that possible

Hi,
most motors are behind the glove box: Temperature, Windscreen demist, re-circulation. The Face / Foot well vent motor is on the right by the steering column.

Diagram of FSI cooling system:

FSI Cooling System.png

1 Coolant pump
2 Throttle valve
3 Heat exchanger for interior heater
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Thermostat housing
6 Map-controlled engine cooling system thermostat
7 Coolant temperature sender G62
8 Radiator with outlet coolant temperature sender G83
9 Oil cooler
10 Cylinder head and cylinder block


If you fancy a trip over to Alton in Hampshire this Sunday then I could take a look at it for you.

regards

Andrew
 
Hi,
most motors are behind the glove box: Temperature, Windscreen demist, re-circulation. The Face / Foot well vent motor is on the right by the steering column.

Diagram of FSI cooling system:

View attachment 37141
1 Coolant pump
2 Throttle valve
3 Heat exchanger for interior heater
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Thermostat housing
6 Map-controlled engine cooling system thermostat
7 Coolant temperature sender G62
8 Radiator with outlet coolant temperature sender G83
9 Oil cooler
10 Cylinder head and cylinder block


If you fancy a trip over to Alton in Hampshire this Sunday then I could take a look at it for you.

regards

Andrew
 
He probably means the air pipe that sends the hot air to the driver’s area.

If the flap is not opening you will have errors saying that when the unit is scanned.

Use this time to run the car with the cap off just for s few minutes I’ver a couple of days. And keep using the car. If you want to try a different climate panel I can send you one free of charge as another straw to clutch. It is worth eliminating that too. The motors and flaps might be working fine but the climate unit might not be sending the signals to operate them????

Steve B

F3F172C7-8771-4876-B663-B22B548B0BBD.jpeg
 
I know the temp control flap motors are expensive from Audi but when I had mine fitted at WOM Rob said he had found some cheaper brand new ones...perhaps worth a call ?.
 
Hi,

I presume that's the mechanic crossing out the diagnostic fault and writing a different reason next to it? A 00710 fault is as described in the print out, a problem with the windscreen demist motor V107. Its not the heater motor and crossing out the word "defroster" and writing "temp heat" next to it doesn't make it so! A real temperature motor fault is number 01271. This is the real diagnostic with a car with temperature control problems:

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: NONE
Control Module Part Number: 8Z2 820 043
Component and/or Version: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT 0406
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: F5EACF2DCFD4F7B6375-2572
1 Fault Found:


01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage


This was fixed by changing the temperature motor V68.

Your fault report does show that there are potential problems with 3 of the flap motors, but the temperature flap isn't one of them.

regards

Andrew
 
I know the temp control flap motors are expensive from Audi but when I had mine fitted at WOM Rob said he had found some cheaper brand new ones...perhaps worth a call ?.
Thanks, i’ve Found Hella motors for about £70 each, but as said previously, I’m not convinced that the issue is these motors?
 
Hi,

I presume that's the mechanic crossing out the diagnostic fault and writing a different reason next to it? A 00710 fault is as described in the print out, a problem with the windscreen demist motor V107. Its not the heater motor and crossing out the word "defroster" and writing "temp heat" next to it doesn't make it so! A real temperature motor fault is number 01271. This is the real diagnostic with a car with temperature control problems:

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: NONE
Control Module Part Number: 8Z2 820 043
Component and/or Version: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT 0406
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: F5EACF2DCFD4F7B6375-2572
1 Fault Found:


01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage


This was fixed by changing the temperature motor V68.

Your fault report does show that there are potential problems with 3 of the flap motors, but the temperature flap isn't one of them.

regards

Andrew

This problem is really doing my head in now as there appears to be so many variables.
As you say, it’s unexplainable that the mechanic have written over the report. It it was an issue with the temp flap then presumably it would say that!

Just so I’m not going mad and missing something obvious.
As I see it there are 3 motors which move a visible gear, which in turn moves the flap.
All of those can be seen from the passenger footwell.
1 on the left is the recirculation flap.
2 in the right are the top defroster and bottom heater (or vice versa).

Have I got that right?
 
This problem is really doing my head in now as there appears to be so many variables.
As you say, it’s unexplainable that the mechanic have written over the report. It it was an issue with the temp flap then presumably it would say that!

Just so I’m not going mad and missing something obvious.
As I see it there are 3 motors which move a visible gear, which in turn moves the flap.
All of those can be seen from the passenger footwell.
1 on the left is the recirculation flap.
2 in the right are the top defroster and bottom heater (or vice versa).

Have I got that right?

That's completely right. The 3 on the left are exactly as you describe. The lower one of the pair is for temperature and you can see that one easily. The one above it is for the windscreen demist.
The 4th one you can't see is on the opposite side of the pair, under the steering column. That single motor adjusts between the foot wells and face console vent grills. It actually moves two sets of flaps via a complex drive system that allows one motor to make one, both or neither sets of flaps open.

If you want to know how the flap moves that mixes cold air and warm air though the heater matrix, look at the lower motor of the pair.

regards

Andrew
 
That's completely right. The 3 on the left are exactly as you describe. The lower one of the pair is for temperature and you can see that one easily. The one above it is for the windscreen demist.
The 4th one you can't see is on the opposite side of the pair, under the steering column. That single motor adjusts between the foot wells and face console vent grills. It actually moves two sets of flaps via a complex drive system that allows one motor to make one, both or neither sets of flaps open.

If you want to know how the flap moves that mixes cold air and warm air though the heater matrix, look at the lower motor of the pair.

regards

Andrew
Thanks Andrew, in that case I conclude that they all appear to move in response to various presses on the centre console. I haven’t looked at the one under the steering column, but as the air moves vents as you cycle though the different options, that must be ok.

I have to return back to the issue being pressure related as the car did get warm when I drove it back home after I had the new expansion bottle and cap replaced. It was short lived though ?
 
Hi copperband. I need a replacement temp motor for my 90. I'd be interested in details of the hella part you've sourced as the OEM from Audi is 130 quid . Thanks in advance.
 
Parked the car with its nose pointing up on the passenger side and warmed the engine up with the cap off the expansion tank.
Interesting there was no bubbling and rising and falling of the level like there had been the other day. The coolant level was below the minimum mark so I’ll need to get some more coolant tomorrow and top up.
I’ll then repeat the excessive to see if I can try and clear any air locks
 
Last edited:
Popped in to the garage yesterday as I didn't want to wait until my booked slot next Thursday. He kindly carried out a sniff test which showed no colour change suggesting it's not a head gasket issue. That said, he only held the "sniffer" and liquid in the bottle for 20 seconds or so and I know a small leak may require a longer test to be detected?
He then had a quick look at the bottle rising and falling and said that once the engine is up to full temp, that's to be expected. He suggested using a lemonade bottle with the bottom cut off held in the expansion tank half full of coolant to see if the pressure would push that up and overflow.

He then checked the pipes that are at the back and top of the engine bay, near the fresh air intake. One was red hot and the other was barely warm and had very little pressure, i.e. it could be squeezed easily. That suggest to him and me that there could we be a blocked flow through the heater matrix. Therefore the first action next week will be a flush through to see if that can be unblocked.

It seems logical to me that if the heater matrix is not allowing the coolant to flow through then that is a good explanation for the lack of any heat in the car.
The only strange thing that is still in the back of my mind is that the last time the car had heat was just after the new expansion bottle was put on and new coolant added. If the heater matix being blocked is the issue then why would that have worked for a few days?
 
Popped in to the garage yesterday as I didn't want to wait until my booked slot next Thursday. He kindly carried out a sniff test which showed no colour change suggesting it's not a head gasket issue. That said, he only held the "sniffer" and liquid in the bottle for 20 seconds or so and I know a small leak may require a longer test to be detected?
He then had a quick look at the bottle rising and falling and said that once the engine is up to full temp, that's to be expected. He suggested using a lemonade bottle with the bottom cut off held in the expansion tank half full of coolant to see if the pressure would push that up and overflow.

He then checked the pipes that are at the back and top of the engine bay, near the fresh air intake. One was red hot and the other was barely warm and had very little pressure, i.e. it could be squeezed easily. That suggest to him and me that there could we be a blocked flow through the heater matrix. Therefore the first action next week will be a flush through to see if that can be unblocked.

It seems logical to me that if the heater matrix is not allowing the coolant to flow through then that is a good explanation for the lack of any heat in the car.
The only strange thing that is still in the back of my mind is that the last time the car had heat was just after the new expansion bottle was put on and new coolant added. If the heater matix being blocked is the issue then why would that have worked for a few days?

Maybe if the whole system was drained down a plug or some sludge shifted out of the lumen and then it took a few days of flow to Re-clog the flow? Just a guess but that’s how coronary arteries roll!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Maybe if the whole system was drained down a plug or some sludge shifted out of the lumen and then it took a few days of flow to Re-clog the flow? Just a guess but that’s how coronary arteries roll!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You could be right there. i'm just wondering what would be the cause of the blockage, if indeed thats what it proves to be?
 
Not sure. Radiator systems in central heating can suffer from build up in the radiators apparently. The narrowing of the channels mean they block easily and you get cold bits. If it can happen in a multimetal system then presumably it can also happen in a car system... maybe.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
You could be right there. i'm just wondering what would be the cause of the blockage, if indeed thats what it proves to be?
Hi, I am just wondering if you ever got this problem sorted and if so, what was the final outcome that fixed your car as I have the exact same issue and I changed my timing belt kit and water pump thinking my pump was at fault.
 
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