Intermittent central locking

AndyP

Member
United-Kingdom
For what its worth I have exactly this problem:


Sometimes after 10 mins the unlock doesn't work, sometimes it can be a number of days. Alternatively, I can drive somewhere, go to lock the car and it doesn't work, put the key back into the ignition on/off and then it'll work first time.
I have tried resyncing the key and I have replaced the fob battery (although the original was 3v) but no difference. No faults on the ECU and the red alarm indicator LED on the door appears to be functioning normally - not much else to go on. Any ideas?

Thx
 
Sometimes after 10 mins the unlock doesn't work, sometimes it can be a number of days. Alternatively, I can drive somewhere, go to lock the car and it doesn't work, put the key back into the ignition on/off and then it'll work first time.
I have tried resyncing the key and I have replaced the fob battery (although the original was 3v) but no difference. No faults on the ECU and the red alarm indicator LED on the door appears to be functioning normally - not much else to go on. Any ideas?

You likely need a new fob, or maybe a replacement CCCU. Do you have a second key? If so does that one display the same behaviour?

If the problem proves intractable, then you need to consult @timmus
 
You likely need a new fob, or maybe a replacement CCCU. Do you have a second key? If so does that one display the same behaviour?

If the problem proves intractable, then you need to consult @timmus

No, unfortunately I don't have a second fob, only a key. Somehow I don't think it's the fob, the CCCU is something that has been nagging at my mind though.
 
No, unfortunately I don't have a second fob, only a key. Somehow I don't think it's the fob, the CCCU is something that has been nagging at my mind though.
What generation is your CCCU - marked by the letter or letters at the end of its code?

Fobs can certainly fail, and the possibility that yours is on the way out can't be discounted.
 
What generation is your CCCU - marked by the letter or letters at the end of its code?

Fobs can certainly fail, and the possibility that yours is on the way out can't be discounted.
Not sure, I'll have to check but it's an early 2005 car, actual manufacturing date was something like Nov. 2004 .
 
Certainly get a second remote and pair it to the CCCU and the ID48 chip to the immobiliser. Just pairing the remote and using your existing key part will allow the car to be started and remote locked / opened. If this works then you know the fault was in your original remote part of the original key. A good used "D" part number key could be obtained and a new blade cut and the ID48 chip replaced with a new blank one. To programm the ID48 chip the cars SKC would be needed, so unless you know someone who has the software and is near you it may be easier just getting a company to code it for you.

Have you disconnected the car battery for about 40 minutes and then reconnected it? Remember to open ( unlock ) all doors first and even drop the drivers window. When the car battery is reconnected you will have to re-synch the key, reset the clock and the one touch on all the electric windows.
 
Certainly get a second remote and pair it to the CCCU and the ID48 chip to the immobiliser. Just pairing the remote and using your existing key part will allow the car to be started and remote locked / opened. If this works then you know the fault was in your original remote part of the original key. A good used "D" part number key could be obtained and a new blade cut and the ID48 chip replaced with a new blank one. To programm the ID48 chip the cars SKC would be needed, so unless you know someone who has the software and is near you it may be easier just getting a company to code it for you.

Have you disconnected the car battery for about 40 minutes and then reconnected it? Remember to open ( unlock ) all doors first and even drop the drivers window. When the car battery is reconnected you will have to re-synch the key, reset the clock and the one touch on all the electric windows.
Thanks, the battery has been disconnected recently and had to do all the above etc. @steve_c has offered to help out with programming a spare key I have, so that is the next obvious step.
 
As said, you can obtain a blank blade and have it cut to your existing key ( over the internet by sending them a clear picture of your key ) and buy an ID48 chip to replace the one in the "new" key. Until you get a blade and chip the remote once paired will open and lock the car, so if you fit the top part from the non working key you will have a fully working key - hopefully.
 
As said, you can obtain a blank blade and have it cut to your existing key ( over the internet by sending them a clear picture of your key ) and buy an ID48 chip to replace the one in the "new" key. Until you get a blade and chip the remote once paired will open and lock the car, so if you fit the top part from the non working key you will have a fully working key - hopefully.
Yep, I already have a spare fob, ID48 chip and key already cut, I got those within a couple of months of buying the car, like 12 years ago !
Just never got around to getting it programmed ...
 
Good news. Just check with Steve that he has everything and you also have all the information needed before he kindly sets up the key for you.
 
For what its worth I have exactly this problem:


Sometimes after 10 mins the unlock doesn't work, sometimes it can be a number of days. Alternatively, I can drive somewhere, go to lock the car and it doesn't work, put the key back into the ignition on/off and then it'll work first time.
I have tried resyncing the key and I have replaced the fob battery (although the original was 3v) but no difference. No faults on the ECU and the red alarm indicator LED on the door appears to be functioning normally - not much else to go on. Any ideas?

Thx
As you got vcds, go to Select Control Module, then group 46. There you can scan the CCU. It's a different then EML scan, engine scan doesn't check this. It gave me 10 fault codes, 3 of them still active unfortunately.
I got a feeling you'll see some old/recent stored codes as well.
 
As you got vcds, go to Select Control Module, then group 46. There you can scan the CCU. It's a different then EML scan, engine scan doesn't check this. It gave me 10 fault codes, 3 of them still active unfortunately.
I got a feeling you'll see some old/recent stored codes as well.

Yep, have already done that, this was after the problem happened again:
Code:
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
        49-00 - No Communications
00956 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
        35-00 - Please Register/Activate
01560 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
        61-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

I'm waiting for my activation code but it looks like:

00956 - Key 2: Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Remote control not working.
01560 - Passenger Door: Won't De-Safe

Think the passenger door is a red herring, but could be a key problem after all ...
 
The de-safe fault will be the cause (or one of the causes, if multiple doors have it) of the locks cycling when you turn the ignition on. But as you say, you have larger fish to fry.
 
From the Ross-Tech web page..

00956 - Key 2​

00956 - Key 2: Adaptation Limit Surpassed​

Possible Symptoms​

  • Remote control not working.

Possible Causes​

  • Key not matched.
  • Key operated more than 200 times while out of range.

Possible Solutions​

 
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