Is this terminal?

Hi Gary,
Thanks for the info , do the breather hoses block up with grot? On these engines leading to an increase In pressure in the rocker cover.

Thanks
Kp 115


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One of the first jobs i did to my 75 tdi when i first bought it was to remove the EGR valve give it a damn good clean then refit it. They do tend to get clogged with old congealed oil which makes the performance feel sluggish.
When you get it off you have 2 options: if you have time then leave it to soak in some penetrating oil overnight and it will be as good as new. If not then get an old toothbrush and a plastic/wooden scraper and get dirty.
Have fun
Steve
 
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the info , do the breather hoses block up with grot? On these engines leading to an increase In pressure in the rocker cover.

Thanks
Kp 115


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ive not seen that even on high milage engines they always seem spotless inside the covers, its not what id expect to see under the cover and very awkward to clean i might add , more so that its moulded plastic with no way of really getting inside to clean although its just an empty air passage, the problem i always find is the EGR valve covered in gunk as this really needs to be removed to get at number 8 rocker cover bolt, although you can get it undone with a flexi 1/4 drive but its a tight squeeze with the egr valve on and chances are the EGR will always do with a good clean unless your using an egr delete , blank plate ...
 
Hi Matt,

It's not a massive problem to resolve, and you won't need to disturb the cambelt.
Rocker cover gaskets are available for the TDi's, however it is common for a repalcement gasket NOT to cure a leak.

The recommended method for many indy's and main dealers is to replace the cover in full.
A new rocker cover comes with the new gasket in place.

I believe there are some differences in old and new covers or gaskets.

Part No's:
Gasket (seal) - 045 103 483 C - approx. £20 +Vat

Complete Cover - 045 103 469 G - Approx. £90 + Vat

Cheers
Jeff

Cheers Jeff, appreciate the information and the codes/prices.

Matt
 
Ive Removed and replace cam covers on several TDI Engines now and never had a leak , ive only replaced the gasket once because it had gone a little brittal , main thing is to make sure is you undo the securing bolts in the correct order, reverse of the tightening sequence , 1/4 turn at a time so the cover does not get warped , more so during tightening id imagine but better to be safe than sorry, make sure the rubber seal is clean and the alloy top it sits against on the cylinder head is also spotless, youl also need a small amount of Blue hylomar or something simular as the seal neads this adding in four places before refitting. on the rocker cover youl notice the 2 half rounds where the cover goes around the camshaft , in each of the 4 corners youl need a small amount of blue hylomar

View attachment 27147
View attachment 27149

Regards Gary
.

Still got the leak, will be removing cover and fitting as suggested.

Is there anything else on the RH (rear as you look at it in the engine bay) side of the engine that could cause these problems. Considering I fit a new cover and gasket things do seem a little wet. Definitely engine oil not sprayed gearbox oil from the drive flange or grease from a CV.

Thank you.
 
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Oh dear found 3 maybe 4 oil leaks:

Right hand rear most corner of engine cover. Cover off, checked for flatness, seal good, waiting for blue hylomar to arrive. Correct tightening sequence and torque will be used.

Rear of engine at the engine cover, just to left of the bump in the head. Just where the hylomar should be applied. As above.

The injection harness securing boss:

Vf0T4Wj.jpg


The white seal appears to be in a bad way:

odYIPIR.jpg


The back of the engine is very wet:

4QgcHrc.jpg


Possibly the fuel pump gasket but I'm going to start with the highest two leaks and see if it stays clean.

Any comments / other things to look for?
 
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Oh dear found 3 maybe 4 oil leaks:

Right hand rear most corner of engine cover. Cover off, checked for flatness, seal good, waiting for blue hylomar to arrive. Correct tightening sequence and torque will be used.

Rear of engine at the engine cover, just to left of the bump in the head. Just where the hylomar should be applied. As above.

The injection harness securing boss:

Vf0T4Wj.jpg


The white seal appears to be in a bad way:

odYIPIR.jpg


The back of the engine is very wet:

4QgcHrc.jpg


Possibly the fuel pump gasket but I'm going to start with the highest two leaks and see if it stays clean.

Any comments / other things to look for?
How did all this go in the end Phil?
 
I thought I’d reported but Il check when I start work on the A2 again. It has been parked in the garden for a month with stripped threads in the head. Need to create garage space.
When I’m back onto fixing the A2 Ill tidy up my threads. However i fixed all leaks, one failed again recently.
 
Re: Engine Bay Cleaning on TDI:
I use Autoglym Machine Cleaner and follow the advice on the label.

Alison is then taken for a lengthy drive to dry stuff out.

This is usually done once a month. ?
 
@CrispyEdd today had to use a 3/4 drive ratchet and 36mm socket on the hub plus family pushers and a L driver to get the A2 inside. It could be there for a while so from memory:
Leak 1, cam cover. Needed a new cam cover compatible with the new seal. Apply sealant as in the manual and torque down in sequence and then that leak gone. Could only do that by removing the EGRV.
Leak 2, tandem pump. Tandem pump rebuild kit came with a gasket without silicone blobs. They leak; it did. Tandem pump replaced with new Bosch and genuine gasket. Leak gone for a couple of years. Gasket replaced with second genuine gasket, leak gone.
Leak 3, injector harness seal. Not available without harness and harness now NLA from VAG. Smeared engine silicone all over it. Leak acceptable.
Car develops misfire, replace injector harness; so assume leak gone, but haven’t completed the repair.
Stripped two cam cover screw holes, cant get drill or Hellicoil to them. Car stuffed; working on it.
 
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@CrispyEdd today had to use a 3/4 drive ratchet and 36mm socket on the hub plus family pushers and a L driver to get the A2 inside. It could be there for a while so from memory:
Leak 1, cam cover. Needed a new cam cover compatible with the new seal. Apply sealant as in the manual and torque down in sequence and then that leak gone. Could only do that by removing the EGRV.
Leak 2, tandem pump. Tandem pump rebuild kit came with a gasket without silicone blobs. They leak; it did. Tandem pump replaced with new Bosch and genuine gasket. Leak gone for a couple of years. Gasket replaced with second genuine gasket, leak gone.
Leak 3, injector harness seal. Not available without harness and harness now NLA from VAG. Smeared engine silicone all over it. Leak acceptable.
Car develops misfire, replace injector harness; so assume leak gone, but haven’t completed the repair.
Stripped two cam cover screw holes, cant get drill or Hellicoil to them. Car stuffed; working on it.
Hi Phil, tha ks for the info there, I have had a brand new audi cover fitted when they removed the egr, so my guess is either they didn't blob it with sealer or they didn't tighten correctly. My next guess will be tandem pump as I'm still.running original pump.
In terms of your luck I feel bad for asking now! Wow you've really been through it. Sounds like you'll have to cut the rocker cam cover off to reveal the bolts?? May be cheaper to buy a new engine!!! Or car. Anyone on here nearby can help you?
 
@CrispyEdd the problem is over the years I have tweaked the rear cover screws repeatedly in an attempt to stop leaks. I assume I fatigued the threads. This time two stripped out before the wrench clicked 10 Nm.
There is no shortage of help here. As soon as I start work and start posting pictures the advice will flood in.
A very helpful forum ?
 
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