Judder shudder shake issue any help for a newbie?

Hello a2 guru's as per my post in the introduction area I am a newbie a2 owner and want to love her but there are issues I need to overcome. It's 54 plate 1.4tdi (75bhp i think) SE 90k on clock. When I accelerate moderately (not being a dick) there is a judder shudder shake of effectively the whole vehicle, and I've tested at all speeds 20 to 30, 30 to 40, 40 to 50, 50 to 60, 60 to 70, with no real rule as to the severity although worst is 50 onwards. My first thought is wheels as the previous owner seems to love kerbing and I think they are the alloy open go knocks (17 inch with 10 or 12 thinner spokes I'll try and upload a photo) equally could be tyres seem ok tread but budgets. It's just so severe I'm not sure. If you 're assure or guide a newbie it would be appreciated.
 

spike

Member
Couple of possibilities
Failing injector wiring loom causing misfire / engine shaking. Can happen as the engine 'rocks' under load and stretches the wiring loom

Worn engine mounts or bottom torque arm (known as the dog bone) either can result in excessive engine movement, again mainly under load

Cheers Spike
 
I'm not as mechanically knowledgeable as I would like to be and I have a feeling owning an a2 might push me learn which I can time providing. Thanks for the response they seem major ish possibilities? Is it relatively easily identifiable visually in the engine bay or is more significant process to confirm? Many thanks again.
 
Do you think my point about tyres and wheels if off the mark as I did think I would be surprised if the front calipers are out if alignment and they even look like hey may of seized
 

steve_c

Grumpy OAP & A2OC Donor
I strongly suspect that this juddering and the engine noise you complain of are connected, and like Spike, I feel a worn dog bone is the most likely culprit.

In general, if wheels are out of true or out of balance, the vibration they produce gets worse at higher speed regardless of whether or not you're accelerating.

The 17" rims that Audi offered as an option on the A2 look gorgeous but are very prone to damage, and do not provide a comfortable ride when the road surface is less than 100%. Switching to 16" or even better 15" rims means that you can use taller tyres with a lot more forgiveness for potholes etc.
 

damadgeruk

A2OC Donor
Welcome to the forum and A2 ownership. The 17" 9 spoke sport alloys are known to be weak, oval wheels will certainly help create the issue you have. Could be worth having the balancing done which a decent garage would be able to check the wheels are round(and balanced).
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Agree with all comments so far. I would take the car to a good tyre garage and have each wheel balanced. While on the machine ask them to look for ovality and buckling. If any are then that is at least a major reason for the shaking. You will then need to replace or repair the wheel(s). Second thing I would do is put it in for a MOT. Anything found there again repair or replace. This is also a good way of finding other things wrong. And third have the car scanned to see what error codes if any are lurking about, best to have a VCDS scan done as it will provide far more information about errors than a generic scan will. Be aware not all faults trigger error codes, the injector loom being one. Try the suggestions and get back to us with the results.
Enjoy the car and enjoy the club.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
When was the car last "serviced"? Diesel fuel filter is another symptom of shaking / misfiring.
 
Ok gents brilliant responses. I'm up against it with work so although I want to sort it time is ever precious. Agree with all said ref tyres and wheels this is at least contributing today was pulling to the left so tracking nerds doing at least. I think I will have to bite the bullet and go for decent tyres on 16 alloys just worried about throwing money at this one before I know if I have a dog of a motor I'm 50:50 at the moment as I went for it on basis of relatively low miles for age. Just been serviced apparently by the garage that took it in part exchange but annual stamped service prior. Just been mot no advisories. I've got a nasty feeling the front brake calipers have seized aswell. Another thing today I was getting a bit fed up and wanted to get home so I had opportunity to open her up, nothing nuts and on the flat part if the m5. Was going at 70 pressed the accelerator down and down and held down. Gradual increase to 75 then quite feel able shifts to 80 then 85. Kept going fine. But it felt like the turbo was working in fits? If this sounds like sense to someone please let me know. The a2 is great car but I fear this one has been lacking care and attention and abused as a result for her age. There are more issues unfortunately that I will list separately aside from the ones to find via a scan which one of you lovely people has already offered. Cheers in advance for your help.
 

damadgeruk

A2OC Donor
Granted, our TDIs are mapped though even a std 75 should feel pretty eager to pick up from 70 (where permitted, obviously). ?
 

depronman

Member
check the intercool bottom for leaks, this will cause poor acceleration and likely dropping into limp made where the turbo is disabled

try changing the front wheels for the rears to see if the vibration goes or changes, it a free diagnostic check, and if a badly buckley wheel is on the front it will cause symptoms you have described, on the back far less noticeable, and the 9 spoke alloys you are describing buckle at the slightest pothole
 
Some quick
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photos of my yet to be loved a2
 

steve_c

Grumpy OAP & A2OC Donor
Ok gents brilliant responses. I'm up against it with work so although I want to sort it time is ever precious. Agree with all said ref tyres and wheels this is at least contributing today was pulling to the left so tracking nerds doing at least. I think I will have to bite the bullet and go for decent tyres on 16 alloys just worried about throwing money at this one before I know if I have a dog of a motor I'm 50:50 at the moment as I went for it on basis of relatively low miles for age. Just been serviced apparently by the garage that took it in part exchange but annual stamped service prior. Just been mot no advisories. I've got a nasty feeling the front brake calipers have seized aswell. Another thing today I was getting a bit fed up and wanted to get home so I had opportunity to open her up, nothing nuts and on the flat part if the m5. Was going at 70 pressed the accelerator down and down and held down. Gradual increase to 75 then quite feel able shifts to 80 then 85. Kept going fine. But it felt like the turbo was working in fits? If this sounds like sense to someone please let me know. The a2 is great car but I fear this one has been lacking care and attention and abused as a result for her age. There are more issues unfortunately that I will list separately aside from the ones to find via a scan which one of you lovely people has already offered. Cheers in advance for your help.
If this car has just passed a legitimate MOT with no advisories, the front brake calipers should not be seized.
You need to get this car professionally assessed before you spend any money on it, otherwise you risk throwing good money after bad.
Go to one of the local independent VAG specialists.
It would probably be better if you ran one thread discussing this car rather than several, since the problems may well be interlinked. If the car were mine, I'd probably pay to have it re-MOT'd. Depending on the date on the certificate, you may be able to get the DVLA to arrange the new MOT (if the previous certificate appears fraudulent).
 
sound advice, new to forum gig so Ill do you suggest and keep to one thread may well set new one up with all issues listed once its been professionally assessed. all the best, and again thanks
 

steve_c

Grumpy OAP & A2OC Donor
Okay, I've had a look at the MOT history, which shows up nothing exceptional. In 2010, 2011 and 2012 it received advisories for pitted, worn and finally severely worn front discs and pads. Not mentioned since, so I guess that is when they were renewed.

The current MOT dates from 13th February, so not exactly recent.
 
cheers for doing that, was doing likewise after you said as i had terrible feeling after a very long week that remembering wrong history for the vehicle i actually purchased having researched many this one came up on friday close to me at a good price for the mileage ...... alas like all things what is cheap is often expensive ..... like you said best course it go to a good technician have it assessed and decide from there. again most impressed with the friendly help here. all the best.
 

2work

Admin Team
Hiya
Did you manage to cure this? If so what was the issue?

Morning Becky,

Hope you’re well. If you tap on this members profile you’ll notice this account has not been logged into since November 2019:

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You may not get the answer you’re seeking from this thread. This is a perfect example of why it would be extremely helpful for members to post up what cured their issue along with a small write up, if necessary to explain the process followed that rectified the fault.

We have far too many threads that have been left dormant which started with a question followed by an abundance of helpful pointers from the community but unfortunately not been closed down by the OP with the resolution.

I see you’ve received a few pointers on what/where to check on your Shake thread. Some good advice has already been provided by 6 members so far. Some of which are Club stalwarts who have assisted with many a fault in their time. Fingers crossed this is correctly diagnosed for you quickly.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
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