Koni FSD fitting guide

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I got a spline socket spike to separate the strut if you want me to post it down.

Quite jealous of the write up with all the Air tools.
 
Should the bottom bolt to the axle be loosened and tightened with the wheel on the ground to avoid damaging the rubber bush?
I understood it best not to torque the axle to shock bolt with nothing bearing the forces. This is what is written in ELSA.
I just finally got mine back together smoothly. On checking one of the top bolts was ever so slightly loose and so it made a clonking noise.
Today I disassembled and reassembled the rear suspension and now it is fantastic.
Of course on the 1.2tdi Koni's were nevr an option but the Bilstien B4's are much better than the originals.
 
I got a spline socket spike to separate the strut if you want me to post it down.

Quite jealous of the write up with all the Air tools.

Thanks for the offer but I have the tool to open up the split bottom strut clamp. It makes the job so much easier than using a blunt screwdriver as shown in the write-up.

Cheers Spike
 
Should the bottom bolt to the axle be loosened and tightened with the wheel on the ground to avoid damaging the rubber bush?
I understood it best not to torque the axle to shock bolt with nothing bearing the forces. This is what is written in ELSA.

Yes, it's good practice to do the final tightening of any suspension bolts with the car on the ground. This takes up any slack in the mounting holes and is critical for 'metalastic' type suspension bushes which must be finally clamped in their neutral position. Angular movement is limited and the rubber can easily be overstressed and debond from the inner and outer metal sleeves if the car is jacked up and the suspension is hanging down when the bolts are torqued.

Cheers Spike
 
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