Hello.
I would've attempted mine too, if it'd just been the arms. Both sides needed replacing.
I needed the driveshaft boots replacing as well, so left it to a local VW/AUDI specialist garage.
While it was being done I told them to replace the rear bushes too.
I provided all the parts, FAI and Lemforder, except new bolts. I got them to supply genuine boots too.
The garage had a very difficult job removing the rear bushes; 2 man job and heat needed etc.
I reckon I could've done what you did, but due to the extent of work mine needed, I was glad
it went to the garage. I don't like being defeated!
Helpful video though, thanks.
Good afternoon, all.
I expect (hope!) from the posting dates that the original enquiror has long-since completed wishbone replacements. If not, and likely for sharing with those that have experienced pain and grief and with those that may avoid same, I make the following observations having adrressed this task a couple of times on my Tdi 90's.
- The 12 x 100mm console bolts MUST be approached with subjective patience; if these are still factory original, years of salt etc, shall have ingressed particularly from the rear of the console bracket possibly causing the (now corroded) leading few mm of the bolt to "tear" or at least weaken the console thread as it is removed. I absolutely recommend overnight, ,at least, liberal applications and re-applications of injector remover or suchlike freeing agent where there this bolt enters the console bracket (it shall creep in past subframe interface) and at the rear of the bracket.
- For stubborn cases, I recommend setting a torque spanner to "crack" open this bolt (but back off rather than get too "brave" if there's a lot of resistance; remember, its a "stretch" bolt and "manliness" is not the approach here; more time and freeing agent is. Just ask any of those poor souls that have had the bolt snap in the console thread = you shall now have to remove the console bracket, appease your local, friendly, machine shop into coiling it and add to your task additional suspension/ geomerty reconfiguration. Be wary of consoles supplied by breakers yards; do you assume that their bolts have been extracted with TLC?
- Despite the steel/ aluminium bolt/ console bracket interface, I say that liberal applications of copper grease is probably the best and simple corrosion/ future-proofing solution; you shall thank yourself if you (as is likely) shall have to again remove those bolts!
- I presume you obtained the hardward fitting numbers so no need for me to state here. But many of you shall have noticed that the factory OE (very sensibly) bolts had an unthreaded, thus narrower diamer, "lead" on on the bolts. The newer/ currently VAG-supplied ones dont. While the "lead" obviously facilitates "wriggling" the bolt through the subframe/ forward arm bushing into the console bracket (before BY HAND engaging the leading few mm of bolt thread), it presents/ facilitates the problem I earlier mentioned, namely, corrosion of the bare, exposed thread at the rear of the console bracket. You shall realise this when you go to, by the book, torque + 90 degrees the bolt; the "dirty" thread encountered by the "longer" (i.e. fully-threaded) console bolts shall cause resistance and thus an inaccurate surface tension/ torque result (which, as I have experienced, can lead the arm bush to "rock around" the console bolt - with more than entertaining torque steer when hitting the loud pedal in higher gears....!!!). Again, clean the thread, do not up the torque beyoud the spec. or else..............................
- My solution to the last mentioned issue was twofold; (1) To my disappointment, the new Febi cast arms'(and many other makes too) bushing sleeve is 15mm I.D, the bolt = 12mm O.D. This may facilitate workshop fitting and mis-alignment. But it particularly facilitates the "rock around" the bolt as described where the bolt, with a dirty female thread, does not have adequate clamping force. Solution # 1; double-sided serrated washers to tighted the bolt face to the subframe (inceidental effect of my spec washer was to cause the bolt to sit c. 3.5mm further forward of the subframe face and thus minimise the "dirty thread" as described - no issue regarding clamping/ thread length (bearing in mind that the factory OE bolt has even less threaded contact having regard to the unthreaded "lead"). Solution # 2; Fit Powerflex PFF3-1001, Polyurethane bushes ..... Magic! With all new Monroe Reflex, stock springs etc., the vererable old ladies are restored to go-kart handling (joy!); this remains, withing the lawful limitations of public road driving, my favourite car (over those with 4 x the power; but then as we say, power is nothing without control/ handling). Incidentally, I carefully drilled and cut-out the Febi bushings while workin on the ground rather than ramp - bad plan, it took hours, many drill bits and hacksaw blades .... but relief to discover that, yes, these poly-bushes really do fit the cast wishbones!
- As doubtless you have discovered, the trailing arm of the (particularly cast) wishbone typically requires some "machining" (but care in maintaining Hex profile) so that your "manly" rachet straps, with red rubber grease, can persuade the trailing arm (spigot) to enter the (rear) console bracket bushing (which, if not workshop abused, is rarely a replacement item).
- Incidentally, and this is a whole other A2 discussion, I opted for the "older", cast, wishbones/ lower control arms. For anyone who gets fussed about not being able to replace the ball joints, I say that if you're kind to the car quality joints are typically good for 100k+ miles ...... so no discussion when you've inspected the salt-induced rot of the (Tdi 90/ newer) fabricated variety. There are many in our community that can thank MOT for perhaps just-in-time failures.......
Apologies for the "tome" of a contribution and not teaching most of you to suck eggs; all of this and a lot more could be shared during a few minutes in the workshop
.
Best regards.
