MOT time... argh...

OldSchool said:
........
I was unsure how to slot the screwdriver into the tab thingy holding the electrical wires plug into the housing... is it through the back straight in or from the side into the hole? argh... ...
Click to expand...
Good Evening,

The purist would be really upset by the mention of a screwdriver. Looks easy below, after loosening by rehearsal and obviously not going to pick one that makes them look like a plonker but the theory is good.

vw connector remover - Google Search

www.google.com


vw connector remover - Google Search

www.google.com

Looks simple but it is not, they can be pigs to disconnect, years of being together the parts that should slide stick together. Wriggle, not you, the connector.

Andy
 
Andrew said:
Good Evening,

The purist would be really upset by the mention of a screwdriver. Looks easy below, after loosening by rehearsal and obviously not going to pick one that makes them look like a plonker but the theory is good.

vw connector remover - Google Search

www.google.com


vw connector remover - Google Search

www.google.com

Looks simple but it is not, they can be pigs to disconnect, years of being together the parts that should slide stick together. Wriggle, not you, the connector.

Andy
Click to expand...

ah thanks!

push in and then press down/push down on the clip/tab thingy... and then the whole thing comes off...

the rain should stop around 12 today I will give it a try...

for now I will track down a bottle of super glue and box of baking soda...

for gluing the bracket...

I'm thinking step 1 - apply super glue to edges of crack - on both sides and then press together and hold for required time...

then, step 2 - put a layer of baking soda along the top of the crack... then apply super glue onto that... after it dries maybe do another layer of baking soda and super glue?

I need to replace the bulb in this headlamp for the "position lamp" - it is the non-headlight bulb...

from a list someone compiled on forum - would this be the "sidelights"?:
Exterior:

Dipped headlight beam - H7
Main headlight beam - H3
Front fog lights - H7
Sidelights - W3W 504
Indicators (front and back) - PY21W
Indicators (sides) - WY5W 501
Brake/tail lights - P21/5W
Reverse light - P21W
Fog light (rear) - P21W
Number plate lights - C5W (38MM Festoon)

.
I think I might have found the position lamp bulb? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/k2/19767416
 
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so my mechanic said I have 14 days to come back for them to do the repairs and I can keep driving till then...

but if the MOT expires before then, I can't drive it unless I am going to the MOT appointment?
 
OldSchool said:
so my mechanic said I have 14 days to come back for them to do the repairs and I can keep driving till then...

but if the MOT expires before then, I can't drive it unless I am going to the MOT appointment?
Click to expand...
Look up your own MOT through gov website. If they didn't change the status of your car, so still previous year's PASS shows, then you can drive it till that expires. If they added new update, that shows the headlight needs to be fixed, so for now it's a FAIL, then you shouldn't drive it until that's sorted, as the gov system follows what's been updated on the website, even if you've more mot from last year.
 
Sylvester said:
Look up your own MOT through gov website. If they didn't change the status of your car, so still previous year's PASS shows, then you can drive it till that expires. If they added new update, that shows the headlight needs to be fixed, so for now it's a FAIL, then you shouldn't drive it until that's sorted, as the gov system follows what's been updated on the website, even if you've more mot from last year.
Click to expand...
great idea! just looked on the dot Gov. website and it expires April 12th 2023... whew!

plenty of time now to get everything sorted!
 
For the car to only need a retest, you have 10 days.
Leave it longer and it's a full test. Retest should be cheaper, and, I think, only the part that failed is tested.
Mac.
 
the super glue and baking soda videos are amazing... it is almost like having a DIY 3d printer...

should a sand the top of the bracket (to get a rough surface) before I put backing soda and super glue over it?
 
OldSchool said:
ah thanks!

push in and then press down/push down on the clip/tab thingy... and then the whole thing comes off...

the rain should stop around 12 today I will give it a try...

for now I will track down a bottle of super glue and box of baking soda...

for gluing the bracket...

I'm thinking step 1 - apply super glue to edges of crack - on both sides and then press together and hold for required time...

then, step 2 - put a layer of baking soda along the top of the crack... then apply super glue onto that... after it dries maybe do another layer of baking soda and super glue?

I need to replace the bulb in this headlamp for the "position lamp" - it is the non-headlight bulb...

from a list someone compiled on forum - would this be the "sidelights"?:
Exterior:

Dipped headlight beam - H7
Main headlight beam - H3
Front fog lights - H7
Sidelights - W3W 504
Indicators (front and back) - PY21W
Indicators (sides) - WY5W 501
Brake/tail lights - P21/5W
Reverse light - P21W
Fog light (rear) - P21W
Number plate lights - C5W (38MM Festoon)

.
I think I might have found the position lamp bulb? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/k2/19767416
Click to expand...

so I have a W5W 501 in my bulb kit - that should be the bulb for the little light under the headlight bulb? position light or sidelight I guess is the same thing? some people call them parking lights?
 
OldSchool said:
so I have a W5W 501 in my bulb kit - that should be the bulb for the little light under the headlight bulb? position light or sidelight I guess is the same thing? some people call them parking lights?
Click to expand...
All the same, outline, side, parking, etc.
Mac.
 
Over time a W5W will discolour the translucent plastic tube that sits over the bulbholder inside the body of the headlamp, due to the greater heat emitted. But it'll get you through an MOT for now.
 
Ok maybe this is just a language thing but at Sainsbury now and they just have bicarbonate of soda - this is not what i need for the glue trick?
 
79223F43-89B1-4896-BFA9-30F467CDEB02.jpeg
 
thanks guys... was counting down the seconds in the Sainsburys before they closed... whew...

can't wait to glue some stuff...

as I was walking back to the car I was looking around for it and when I caught the first glimpse of it amongst all the other horrible cars I thought this is all worth it...

I love my A2... (note: not like that weirdo who married the Berlin Wall but I just like this car in a perfectly normal and appropriate way. ahem. )
 
OldSchool said:
thanks guys... was counting down the seconds in the Sainsburys before they closed... whew...

can't wait to glue some stuff...

as I was walking back to the car I was looking around for it and when I caught the first glimpse of it amongst all the other horrible cars I thought this is all worth it...

I love my A2... (note: not like that weirdo who married the Berlin Wall but I just like this car in a perfectly normal and appropriate way. ahem. )
Click to expand...
Don't we all. You're among friends here.
Best not mention it in social gathering, (as opposed to work related gatherings, nudge nudge, nods as good as a wink, etc).
Mac.
 
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Have a look at a few more videos on using the super glue and baking soda. Then have a little practice on a bit of scrap to get used to how much to apply at a time. Make sure you do not glue yourself of anything else together. This process also works very well for repairing broken mounting tabs.

Like anything else when glueing the surfaces need to be clean and dry. In the case of the broken bracket you can apply the "mix" on all sides to reinforce the join - more belt and braces really.

You can achieve different results also depending on the viscosity of the super glue. Thicker does not run off as easily, but does not penetrate as deeply.
 
Sylvester said:
Look up your own MOT through gov website. If they didn't change the status of your car, so still previous year's PASS shows, then you can drive it till that expires. If they added new update, that shows the headlight needs to be fixed, so for now it's a FAIL, then you shouldn't drive it until that's sorted, as the gov system follows what's been updated on the website, even if you've more mot from last year.
Click to expand...
Not how it works I am afraid

A failed test does not alter your mot expiry date nor can a mot station alter your cars status

Simple fact is you know your car is now unroadworthy and so should not be used on the road until fixed and passed, although I think your tester is a A hole personally!
 
Not sure, but I think it wasn't a fail, as in dangerous do not drive, etc. @OldSchool has checked status online, and it's current MoT is still valid.
Mac.
 
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audifan said:
Have a look at a few more videos on using the super glue and baking soda. Then have a little practice on a bit of scrap to get used to how much to apply at a time. Make sure you do not glue yourself of anything else together. This process also works very well for repairing broken mounting tabs.

Like anything else when glueing the surfaces need to be clean and dry. In the case of the broken bracket you can apply the "mix" on all sides to reinforce the join - more belt and braces really.

You can achieve different results also depending on the viscosity of the super glue. Thicker does not run off as easily, but does not penetrate as deeply.
Click to expand...
I'm going to try reinforce and mend my cracked 10mm mount tab on the undertray the one up in the wheel arch. I'll try a thin washer to glue it all.back together
 
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