manhattan$
Past Member
Nice work Steve.
Thats two jobs i will be doing myself very soon.
Was the dog bone an easy job?
Thats two jobs i will be doing myself very soon.
Was the dog bone an easy job?
My A2 journey (A2Steve)
- Thread starter A2Steve
- Start date
A2Steve
A2OC Donor
Yes mate, its a nice job that very accessible once the undertray is removed. The mounting point on the subframe is a captive nut so makes things a lot easier. Other than that it's just the three 16mm bolts. Tightened to 50nm plus 90 degrees.
manhattan$
Past Member
Thanks Steve!
I have the brakes, just need to order a new dog bone.
Not sure if i should get a genuine vw one or a quality aftermarket one?
I have the brakes, just need to order a new dog bone.
Not sure if i should get a genuine vw one or a quality aftermarket one?
S3 Avus' now fitted. I think they really suit the car!!
I must've missed this pic when you first posted it up Steve, I must say they look superb on the A2, really good choice!,
Out of curiosity did you need adapters/spacers at all or were they 5x100s
Cheers Jeff
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A2Steve
A2OC Donor
The quality of the one I fitted yesterday was just as good, the weight was exactly the same the last one has lasted 110k so if this one only lasts half that I'll more than happy.
A2Steve
A2OC Donor
Thanks Jeff
You can see them in the flesh at ADI next month. They are 5x100 with the same centre bore and the offset means they fill the arches well with no rubbing.
Great Steve look forward to it, not long now!!
Looking Good steve & liking them S3 wheels too,
just remember to go easy on them new brakes for a good 100mile till they bed in correctly,
Ile also give you an early warning on the front suspension , get yourself one of them tools to spead, widen the stub axle, hub, where the new one goes in as such as an absolute nightmear to get the old ones out as rusted in , and clean the holes out before fitting the new ones, also on the drivers side youl need to split the bottom ball joint and tracking arm ball joint, ie undo and remove , to be able to move the stub axle right forward so the drive shaft misses the bottom arm mount as not enough room to get the front drivers side shock out if you dont...
Regards Gary
just remember to go easy on them new brakes for a good 100mile till they bed in correctly,
Ile also give you an early warning on the front suspension , get yourself one of them tools to spead, widen the stub axle, hub, where the new one goes in as such as an absolute nightmear to get the old ones out as rusted in , and clean the holes out before fitting the new ones, also on the drivers side youl need to split the bottom ball joint and tracking arm ball joint, ie undo and remove , to be able to move the stub axle right forward so the drive shaft misses the bottom arm mount as not enough room to get the front drivers side shock out if you dont...
Regards Gary
KekseKaempfer
A2OC Donor
You don't need to split any ball joints to get either side out. You can do that, but it's unnecessary work. The top mount on the drivers side however is a real ****** to get to. You need to move quite a lot out if the way to get to the top mount bolts.
And yes a strut camp spreader socket is very handy.
Chris
And yes a strut camp spreader socket is very handy.
Chris
Sorry to spoil your thread steve.
chris maybe its just the 1.4 petrol with opensky that has a problem with the driverside as my driveshaft was nearly touching the steal top part of the bottom wishbone arm mount and i still had 1cm of shock to come out of the stub axle thats why i had to split the bottom arm and tracking so the driveshaft would move infront in the gap.
Gary
chris maybe its just the 1.4 petrol with opensky that has a problem with the driverside as my driveshaft was nearly touching the steal top part of the bottom wishbone arm mount and i still had 1cm of shock to come out of the stub axle thats why i had to split the bottom arm and tracking so the driveshaft would move infront in the gap.
Gary
KekseKaempfer
A2OC Donor
True. I was talking TDi. Petrol may be different. Sorry for the swerve. :/
A2Steve
A2OC Donor
No worries guys, thanks for the advice.
Well I took the car for a test drive this morning to try out the new brakes and gearbox mount.
I set off and was immediately met by a knocking/grinding noise that increased with speed but disappeared when pressing the brake pedal. I immediately thought that one of the brake pads hadn't been seated properly. I took the wheel off and it was actually the wheel that was rubbing on the metal part of the outside brake pad.
The centre hub on the S3 wheels is a few mm bigger than the centre of a standard A2 wheel and so it was fouling on the alloy. I hadn't had this problem with the pagid pads that were already fitted so I can only assume that the ceramic pads are either slightly larger, a slightly different shape or indeed the old pads were worn enough when I fitted the S3 wheels that they didn't cause an issue.
My only option was to angle grind a couple mm off the edge of the brake pad, (I kept it to an absolute minimum not to affect the integrity of the pad) on each side and then touch the bare metal up with a bit of hammerite.
So lesson to all, if you have A3 wheels on your A2, you will either need small spacers of do what I did above when fitting ceramic pads.
Ps the new polo 9n pendulum support did the job and the car is now much smoother when lifting off/putting on the throttle.
Well I took the car for a test drive this morning to try out the new brakes and gearbox mount.
I set off and was immediately met by a knocking/grinding noise that increased with speed but disappeared when pressing the brake pedal. I immediately thought that one of the brake pads hadn't been seated properly. I took the wheel off and it was actually the wheel that was rubbing on the metal part of the outside brake pad.
The centre hub on the S3 wheels is a few mm bigger than the centre of a standard A2 wheel and so it was fouling on the alloy. I hadn't had this problem with the pagid pads that were already fitted so I can only assume that the ceramic pads are either slightly larger, a slightly different shape or indeed the old pads were worn enough when I fitted the S3 wheels that they didn't cause an issue.
My only option was to angle grind a couple mm off the edge of the brake pad, (I kept it to an absolute minimum not to affect the integrity of the pad) on each side and then touch the bare metal up with a bit of hammerite.
So lesson to all, if you have A3 wheels on your A2, you will either need small spacers of do what I did above when fitting ceramic pads.
Ps the new polo 9n pendulum support did the job and the car is now much smoother when lifting off/putting on the throttle.
A2Steve
A2OC Donor
Well its been about a fortnight (500 miles) since I fitted the new discs and pads and I'm really pleased. I havnt washed the car since fitting them and I still have zero brake dust on the front wheels. I know it sounds like a little thing but I used to have to wash them every week before.
Stopping power is very good. I'm still not happy with the amount of travel in the pedal in relation to brake force but that is likely to be non disc/pad related.
Overall a thumbs up from me.
Stopping power is very good. I'm still not happy with the amount of travel in the pedal in relation to brake force but that is likely to be non disc/pad related.
Overall a thumbs up from me.
murdo
Admin Team
While walking back to the car today I couldn't help bit take this pic. I love the design of the A2
Will be having a much needed clean this weekend ahead of ADI.
Filthy!!!
S3 Wheels look lovely on the A2 and I agree about the lines . A perfect wee package.
J
jp.oog
Guest
Loving the wheel and tyre combo. I must admit there is only about 1mm clearance between brake pad and spacer on my standard brake set up.
Nat_s2
A2OC Donor
View attachment 22112
Good news, Santa got me a new phone for Christmas. My for sale threads from now on will be accompanied by plenty of photos
Love those alloys Steve can't decide which to go for on my TDI I've got the 16 inch standard SE wheels at the moment
