New 6 speed gearbox method - passat '11 onwards MYP gearbox

Ah thank you, sounds for me as though the trio of MYP, PTU and NTG would be best ... Obvs for me, no labour costs either which makes a big difference.

Strictly speaking, the PTW is actually shorter geared than some of the other 6-speed boxes, but has a considerably longer final drive than other ones cited (which have the same 3.389 final drive as the AMF/BHC box).

If the PTW box is a bit long (but available cheaper than some of the other codes) and you've got the tools & skills, swapping the diff/final drive over from EWQ/GPK to PTW as well effectively gives you a box with gears 1-4 near identical or identical to the original 5 speed, 5th a fraction shorter (-1.3mph @ 2000rpm), and 6th at 68.7mph / 2000rpm (PTW final drive gives 73.7). For me this would be the absolute ideal for a mapped Tdi75, but there isn't a box with those exact characteristics out there. I concur with the use of the stop-start starter - much more muscular and instant start than the original and eliminated the squeal (which has now transferred to my other Tdi).
 
Strictly speaking, the PTW is actually shorter geared than some of the other 6-speed boxes, but has a considerably longer final drive than other ones cited (which have the same 3.389 final drive as the AMF/BHC box).

If the PTW box is a bit long (but available cheaper than some of the other codes) and you've got the tools & skills, swapping the diff/final drive over from EWQ/GPK to PTW as well effectively gives you a box with gears 1-4 near identical or identical to the original 5 speed, 5th a fraction shorter (-1.3mph @ 2000rpm), and 6th at 68.7mph / 2000rpm (PTW final drive gives 73.7). For me this would be the absolute ideal for a mapped Tdi75, but there isn't a box with those exact characteristics out there. I concur with the use of the stop-start starter - much more muscular and instant start than the original and eliminated the squeal (which has now transferred to my other Tdi).
Robin the PTW gives 70mph in top near as dammit - see my post I linked to above
 
Robin the PTW gives 70mph in top near as dammit - see my post I linked to above
I have 195/55 tyres on that car .. equates to 73.7mph at 2k. It is very quiet, mind you! Hence my thought that the reduced final drive would be perfect for my setup. I must admit I had forgotten that in my previous posts on the PTW here - well noticed! Going for that size stemmed firstly from that size specifically being on offer right when I was looking for tyres on that car, and realising with my long drives that they would increase the gearing. I have 195/45s of the same tyre on another car and it was noticeably lower geared, even before the PTW swap.
 
Hello everyone;

This past saturday I installed in my car a PTU gearbox from an Audi A3 1.6 TDI from 2014 with 122.000 km (75.000 mi).
I only needed to make the support for the cable carrier and install the flanges from the original gearbox, and everything was perfect. Exact same gear ratios as the MYP.
I also replaced the oil in the gearbox with the OE oil that corresponds to this gearbox and year (G 052 527 A2) and installed a new clutch
from Sachs.
I installed the original starter that comes with the original gearbox 02Z 911 024 L (2 kW starter that start the engine easily, faster and with a better sound). The interference between the starter pinion and the flywheel is perfect in the direction perpendicual to the axle of the gearbox but in the direcition parallel to the gearbox I am missing around 4,5 - 5 mm and this is not ideal for long term operation. I will remove around 4 mm from the starter motor with a milling machine to improve the interference between the pinion of the starter motor and the flywheel.

The noise of the engine at motorway speeds is much much less. Also the gear knob travel is much less with the PTU gearbox (I prefer the old gearbox in this particual topic) but in such a way the gear change feeling is more precise.

I am very disapointed with the noise that comes from the gearbox. The diferential in my old GPK gearbox had a lot of play and the noise when the engine was between holding/pushing the car was horrendous. With this "new" gearbox with new OE oil the noise is much less but is present. I don't know if anyone has experience with these new gearboxes like MYP, PTU, PTW ... in reference to differential clearance and low engine load noises. But from my point of view, very dissapointed with Audi/VW with the sound aspect of the gearboxes after only 120.000 km and 6 years...

Kind regards,
 
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Hello everyone;

This past saturday I installed in my car a PTU gearbox from an Audi A3 1.6 TDI from 2014 with 122.000 km (75.000 mi).
I only needed to make the support for the cable carrier and install the flanges from the original gearbox, and everything was perfect. Exact same gear ratios as the MYP.
I also replaced the oil in the gearbox with the OE oil that corresponds to this gearbox and year (G 052 527 A2) and installed a new clutch
from Sachs.
I installed the original starter that comes with the original gearbox 02Z 911 024 L (2 kW starter that start the engine easily, faster and with a better sound). The interference between the starter pinion and the flywheel is perfect in the direction perpendicual to the axle of the gearbox but in the direcition parallel to the gearbox I am missing around 4,5 - 5 mm and this is not ideal for long term operation. I will remove around 4 mm for the starter motor with a milling machine to improve the interference between the pinion of the starter motor and the flywheel.

The noise of the engine at motorway speeds is much much less. Also the gear knob travel is much less with the PTU gearbox (I prefer the old gearbox in this particual topic) but in such a way the gear change feeling is more precise.

I am very disapointed with the noise that comes from the gearbox. The diferential in my old GPK gearbox had a lot of play and the noise when the engine was between holding/pushing the car was horrendous. With this "new" gearbox with new OE oil the noise is much less but is present. I don't know if anyone has experience with these new gearboxes like MYP, PTU, PTW ... in reference to differential clearance and low engine load noises. But from my point of view, very dissapointed with Audi/VW with the sound aspect of the gearboxes after only 120.000 km and 6 years...

Kind regards,
Not sure what you mean about the noise, mine is silent.
 
Interestingly there's an MYP on eBay now for £80 which I nearly grabbed. It's spares or repairs.

It got noisy in second, then failed completely and wouldn't select gears. Sounds like a bearing has let go and the whole cluster shifted possibly?

I have to say though, in trying to see what a repair might involve, a long Google found not a single failure, not a single story of one being rebuilt. I tried referencing that whole family of boxes, plus Passat B7, and nothing.

So whilst nothing is going to be 100% reliable over millions of units and 100K's of miles, they certainly don't appear to have significant inherent issues.

I'd fit one.
 
Interestingly there's an MYP on eBay now for £80 which I nearly grabbed. It's spares or repairs.

It got noisy in second, then failed completely and wouldn't select gears. Sounds like a bearing has let go and the whole cluster shifted possibly?

I have to say though, in trying to see what a repair might involve, a long Google found not a single failure, not a single story of one being rebuilt. I tried referencing that whole family of boxes, plus Passat B7, and nothing.

So whilst nothing is going to be 100% reliable over millions of units and 100K's of miles, they certainly don't appear to have significant inherent issues.

I'd fit one.


Here's a Dutch gearbox revision company "statement"....... Says more requests for overhaul to specific VAG gearboxes is requested, due to new cars want the driver to shift up (shift light indicator) at lower revs and therefore giving more stress to gearbox parts/bearings.

Hope Google translate can sort you out to read the article.


@miguel_e38 How much oil did you add? In a total revision it states 2.3L and in case of servicing/replacing oil in situ it states 1.9L.
For myself I couldn't get more amount of 1.8L in the box, used Febi oil.
IMG_20210321_105610.jpgIMG_20210321_105638.jpg


Cheers.
 
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Here's a Dutch gearbox revision company "statement"....... Says more requests for overhaul to specific VAG gearboxes is requested, due to new cars want the driver to shift up (shift light indicator) at lower revs and therefore giving more stress to gearbox parts/bearings.

Hope Google translate can sort you out to read the article.


@miguel_e38 How much oil did you add? In a total revision it states 2.3L and in case of servicing/replacing oil in situ it states 1.9L.
For myself I couldn't get more amount of 1.8L in the box, used Febi oil.
View attachment 77819View attachment 77820


Cheers.

My gearbox was "decontaminated" by the junkyard that collected the donor car. Anyway, I had the gearbox draining the old oil before mounting it. According to the Audi workshopmanual, in the mounting position in the A3, only 1.7 liters can be added through the filler cap, the rest up to 2.3 must be done by the sensor for the reversing lights. In my particular case, I could only fill about 1.6 liters through the filler cap, the rest up to 2.2-2.3 liters I did as the manual requires through the reverse sensor.

Hope that helps you
 
My gearbox was "decontaminated" by the junkyard that collected the donor car. Anyway, I had the gearbox draining the old oil before mounting it. According to the Audi workshopmanual, in the mounting position in the A3, only 1.7 liters can be added through the filler cap, the rest up to 2.3 must be done by the sensor for the reversing lights. In my particular case, I could only fill about 1.6 liters through the filler cap, the rest up to 2.2-2.3 liters I did as the manual requires through the reverse sensor.

Hope that helps you

Muchas Gracias!

I'm sorry for your gearbox noise, it's not a shortage of oil, you've got that correct!
 
Dear all, just to add a little note to keep in mind when changing to a 6 speeder.
If you need to remove the sump you may encounter a challenge.
Standard A2 Tdi gearboxes have slight cut outs on the casing as, at least a PTW, 6 speeders have a straight casing which creates a too big angle for sockets or Allen keys.
I managed to loosen the 2ea bolts of the sump at gearbox side using a ball end Allen key with the risk of rounding the innards of the bolt.
I was lucky, and I've now drilled 2ea holes in the gearbox edge casing, now a normal end Allen key will fit perfect.

IMG_20210404_163505.jpgIMG_20210404_163524.jpgIMG_20210404_163638.jpg

Just so you know.

Edit; if you look at the 1st photo's in this thread from @russellbridge, you'll see exactly the difference in (bottom/lower side) gearbox casing.
 
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Good afternoon;

When I mounted the PTU gearbox on my 1.4 TDi BHC, I noticed that the interference between the starter motor pinion (Valeo 02Z 911 024 L from the original car of the PTU gearbox) and the flywheel ring gear was not correct in the direction transverse to the vehicle. The starter motor pinion only rests 2.5 mm on the flywheel ring gear. After some measurements and investigations, I discovered that this is due to the fact that the bell of these gearboxes is 5 mm longer to accommodate the dual-mass flywheel. The objective was clear, remove 5 mm from the plane of the starter motor. After a brief visual study, 5 mm seemed too much to me as I had the risk of drilling inside the starter motor, so I ordered the machine shop to remove only 4 mm. After receiving the starter motor, even with these 4 mm, a small hole actually appeared in the casting of the starter motor housing, but nothing serious.

The starter motor is installed and working properly now. In the images you can see the difference between the interference surface of the starter motor in the previous vehicle (Audi A3 8V 1.6 TDi), my assembly unmodified after about 2500 km while I studied how to mechanize the starter motor and the estimated modified position. If you look closely at the image, you can see how in just 2500 km the pinion crest has already deformed a bit.

I also considered the option of a starter motor 5 mm longer from a 1.2 TSI but this starter is only 1.4 kW of power (sure enough for the 1.4 TDi) but I preferred to keep the original 2.0 kW A3 since it starts the motor very fast and with an nice sound (original Bosch BHC starter is 1.9 kW).

I hope this information is helpful for someone interested in this modification.

Kind regards,
 

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Good afternoon;

When I mounted the PTU gearbox on my 1.4 TDi BHC, I noticed that the interference between the starter motor pinion (Valeo 02Z 911 024 L from the original car of the PTU gearbox) and the flywheel ring gear was not correct in the direction transverse to the vehicle. The starter motor pinion only rests 2.5 mm on the flywheel ring gear. After some measurements and investigations, I discovered that this is due to the fact that the bell of these gearboxes is 5 mm longer to accommodate the dual-mass flywheel. The objective was clear, remove 5 mm from the plane of the starter motor. After a brief visual study, 5 mm seemed too much to me as I had the risk of drilling inside the starter motor, so I ordered the machine shop to remove only 4 mm. After receiving the starter motor, even with these 4 mm, a small hole actually appeared in the casting of the starter motor housing, but nothing serious.

The starter motor is installed and working properly now. In the images you can see the difference between the interference surface of the starter motor in the previous vehicle (Audi A3 8V 1.6 TDi), my assembly unmodified after about 2500 km while I studied how to mechanize the starter motor and the estimated modified position. If you look closely at the image, you can see how in just 2500 km the pinion crest has already deformed a bit.

I also considered the option of a starter motor 5 mm longer from a 1.2 TSI but this starter is only 1.4 kW of power (sure enough for the 1.4 TDi) but I preferred to keep the original 2.0 kW A3 since it starts the motor very fast and with an nice sound (original Bosch BHC starter is 1.9 kW).

I hope this information is helpful for someone interested in this modification.

Kind regards,
Oh wow, that's brilliant, thank you. For those of us contemplating a gearbox change and have access to a mill, this is very useful indeed.
 
@dj_efk you'll be allright with a 90 ATL. An ATL s'got so much oomph in the lower region of the rpm scale that it will pull the whatever 6 speed box in 1st gear for sure.

I even wouldn't be surprised if you would get it rollin starting in second gear without too much hassle, although not recommended to do so very often......

Well, what can I say; I'm very surprised with my ATL in combination with a PTW 6 speed.
You know those cheerleader pom-pom girls, and the pompoms stay down cause there's nothing to cheerio about..... That's how I feel.

My first ATL was a king in pulling second gear from almost tick over. I almost made it a sport to shift to 2nd early and give it full berries. Maybe no good for the DMF, but I was encountering that one when it did need replacing.
Then it was totaled in an accident, a write off.
Another A2 was bought, this time an AMF. A Bluemotion gearbox was fitted and a remap, the drive was sweet although not as swift and punchy as the ATL.

Now, this new ATL I have. The one which doesn't get the cheerleaders to cheer.
It has a PTW gearbox, a SMF and new clutch including timing belt and all accompanied auxiliaries, a new oil pump chain and sprockets and uprated/stronger bearing cap bolts.
It's timed with VCDS, spot on, and also all parameters are correct when driving, as in fuel quantities, turbo load/pressure and so on.
It's not remapped, yet, and it struggles in 1st and 2nd until it reaches 2100rpm. As soon it's in third gear things come together and the ATL is behaving like it should, even a little before 2000rpm.
My wife took the car yesterday because her car required some maintenance.
She asked if I was happy with the ATL when she came back with it...... I almost broke down and cried..... ??.

The AMF tdi I still have is a lot more fun to drive.
So does anyone has something to say about it?

There's no fault codes present, it's not in limp mode or going in there.
I found an article about the vacuüm box which can mess up the VTG adjustment (without triggering a fault) on the turbo, so another box (used one) will be tested upcoming Saturday.

If anyone encountered this also and found some kind of solution, it would be very welcome.....
 
A none remapped atl and the taller gearing of the 6speed box would not seem to be a good combo in my eyes
But I would not have expected to feel the lack of remap in the lower 1st and 2nd gears


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A none remapped atl and the taller gearing of the 6speed box would not seem to be a good combo in my eyes
But I would not have expected to feel the lack of remap in the lower 1st and 2nd gears


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Exactly! I'm aware a remap would suit the overall drive abilities......... But without a remap it must be possible to give a "normal" drive. With all respect to my wife, but even she noticed the dip in 1st and 2nd (normally she drives a Volvo 940 LPT automatic) and was surprised I was using the A2 on a daily basis the way it drives now.

Another MAF was installed, also new fuel filter, no change in behavior.
Added some VTG/turbo "cleaning" products to the fuel but no change. The engine itself is running very sweet without any vibration or hiccups.
Brake and clutch switch appear to be working fine. Switching off ASR does not make a difference, except that it light's up on the cluster.
ASV and EGR valve are also cleaned and not gunged up anymore.

Before it gets a remap I really would like to find out what's not 100% with this car, I'm sure something is not correct!
 
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That's bizarre - my BHC with a PTW pulls really strongly in 1st and 2nd, and it's not supposed to pick up boost as quickly as the ATL variable turbo. As you've thought, sounds like something is not 100%. Could the vanes be stuck in the higher rev range position?
 
Vanes could be stuck, don't know; it would trigger under/overboost and have a faultcode me thinks? When connected up a manual vacuüm pump the VTG rod is moving fully up and down.
In 2018 a new turbo was installed according to former owner. Receipt found with car documentation is backing this up.

Maybe it's better to make a separate topic/post? Think it's got nothing to do with the 6-speeder, although same problem was mentioned in this topic before.......
 
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Vanes could be stuck, don't know; it would trigger under/overboost and have a faultcode me thinks? When connected up a manual vacuüm pump the VTG rod is moving fully up and down.
In 2018 a new turbo was installed according to former owner. Receipt found with car documentation is backing this up.

Maybe it's better to make a separate topic/post? Think it's got nothing to do with the 6-speeder, although same problem was mentioned in this topic before.......
Hi Menno,
Turbo actuator & vacuum hose condition internally split / fully home , Glowplugs possibly not doing what they should during normal running?
 
@kp 115 Yes, pipes/hosing fully home and secure. Actuator tested with manual vacuüm pump, same goes for all other vacuum lines as EGR, all tested with manual pump and all kept their value and no leakage found.

Ofcourse I'm only giving it a good trash when engine is warm/hot, but open for suggestions; of what influence will the glowplug/system be when engine is hot?
By the way; Glowplugs are new and ATL specified.
 
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@kp 115 Yes, pipes/hosing fully home and secure. Actuator tested with manual vacuüm pump, same goes for all other vacuum lines as EGR, all tested with manual pump and all kept their value and no leakage found.

Ofcourse I'm only giving it a good trash when engine is warm/hot, but open for suggestions; of what influence will the glowplug/system be when engine is hot?
Apparently it still runs at a lesser rate I think Audifan linked a Beru document that explained it, I fitted new Bosch ones & found similar information on their website.
My understanding of the variable vane geometry is that it gives high pressure at low speeds & low pressure at high speeds for economy ( my Galaxy 1.9 pd engine had to be spooled up to 1500 rpm if you were turning right!)
Hth
Keith.
 
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