Well ... just a brief update on progress, I'll comment on the door 'closed problem' from my previous post a bit later on.
The sun was shining in Portaferry yesterday morning and in a fit of potential carnage I tackled the timing belt kit that has been sitting on the shelf this past month. I'd already built up a collection of tools and written out the steps in preparation but still it was a daunting task.
The strip down was straight forward:
1. Undertray off.
2. Drivers side wheel off and undo the right hand side of the arch liner for access.
3. Pumped out about 1.5 litres of coolant by undoing the small pipe to the header tank and idling the engine for 30seconds until it stopped pumping.
4. Removed the auxiliary belt via the wheel arch using a 16mm spanner and releasing the tension ... at this point its a good idea to remove the guide wheel from the tensioner for access to one of the bottom cover bolts, re-grease the bearing while its off.
5. Gaining confidence now and used the special recommended tool for holding the crankshaft pulley and undid the 21mm bolt with a pneumatic impact gun. Removed the pulley and added a big washer before replacing the bolt.
6. Essential coffee break and feeling smug that it's going to plan.
7. Set 'Top Dead Centre' by turning the crankshaft with a 21mm '12 point' socket until the camshaft holes lined up in the correct position with the chamfered tooth and timing mark at the crankshaft end. Set the position of the camshafts with the recommended locking tool.
Tip ... took a bit of time and painted timing marks on the old short cam belt, sprockets and old long belt ... this enabled counting the teeth between the marks and ensuring the new belts went back on in exactly the same position.
8. Support engine on a trolley jack and remove drivers side engine mount, remove dipstick and unplug its pipe from the top end (just push the lugs together and it pops off) and the corrugated oil filler pipe as well ... prevents any stress or stretching on these pipes when lowering the engine on the jack by a couple of centimetres for easier access.
9. Removed old belts, tensioners, jockey wheels and water pump ... prepare for a bit of a deluge of coolant.
10. Change shirt and put on dry gloves by not following advice from 9. above.
Tip ... Have a list ready with all the torque settings you will need for re-installing each component.
11. Followed a logical sequence and installed the new water pump, then lined up the new belts with the old and painted corresponding marks, ensuring the same amount of teeth between each as per originals ... if the new marks are lined up with the marks on the camshaft gears and you haven't moved anything then your timing has got to be right ... camshafts locking tool is worth the £6 investment as nothing can move.
12. A bit of a fiddle reinstalling the short belt tensioner and you need a torque wrench that goes down to 20Nm ... not a great deal of torque on this or the long belt tensioner at all.
13. Manually rotate the engine over a few times with your 21mm socket on the crankshaft bolt to ensure your timing is correct and double check by lining up the chamfered tooth on the crankshaft sprocket with its mark and re installing the camshaft locking tool ... if the tool slips into both holes easily then you are good to refit everything back.
14. Undo crankshaft bolt and reinstall pulley using new stretch bolt, re-fit tensioner wheel and install new auxiliary belt onto the alternator and aircon compressor.
Tip ... if the auxiliary tensioner still spins and is in good condition it's easy to carefully remove the protective cover of the bearing and inject fresh grease into it before reinstalling.
14. The new crankshaft bolt is 21mm (hopefully shouldn't have original 19mm one at this stage!) and easier torqued from beneath ... it requires either brute strength or a long extension bar to get the 90 degrees of stretch.
15. Start up the engine, confident that you have been methodical and followed the correct procedure ... but crossing both fingers for good measure.
Just a couple of photos from along the way:
Extra marks on the old belts to compare with new belts
Recommended Camshaft lock tool
Water pump, belts, tensioners and guide wheels removed and ready for a fresh start.
New water pump installed, held in place by two bolts with a 6mm Allen Key head. Idler roller locates over the top bolt.
Belts tensioned, crankshaft manually rotated for timing and ready to put back together ... the old crankshaft bolt is used up to this point and replaced with a new one when the crankshaft pulley is installed.
Thanks for viewing and it really isn't as daunting as it seems ... plan well ahead and gather up the information from this site and YouTube and you will be able to do it.
