Number plate lights

PlasticMac

Member
I've got the old screw's out, but both light units are broken, where the old screw has rusted and swelled, cracking the lamp body. Back on and working for now, but anyone got an alternative source which does require the selling of a vital organ please?
(Not that my vital organs would be that valuable).

These look very similar, but that doesn't mean a lot:

Mac.
 

Crikeymikey

A2OC Donor
Just for some extra credit, here is how my ones turned out.
View attachment 94050
No rusty screws in sight!
I decided to replace the original bulbs with some LEDs while doing this job.
If you are using LED bulbs be sure not to short the light on the clips that the LEDs mount into. Initially I was disappointed to find that my lights didn't work and it turned out I had a short circuit and had blown a fuse. After adjusting the LED and replacing the fuse everything worked as it should.

I though I should add a few links for some of the parts I used.
Both the screws and the screw extractors were from screwfix.
Screw extractors:
Screws:
The replacement number plate lights I got so I could have lenses from them have been linked previously in this thread but I'll link them again here as well.
Thanks for going to all that trouble! :)
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
I've got the old screw's out, but both light units are broken, where the old screw has rusted and swelled, cracking the lamp body. Back on and working for now, but anyone got an alternative source which does require the selling of a vital organ please?
(Not that my vital organs would be that valuable).

These look very similar, but that doesn't mean a lot:

Mac.
Good Afternoon Mac,

I too am thinking about this.

1. What do think about the link in post 3.

2. Available on Audi Tradition, group buy?

Andy
 

PlasticMac

Member
Good Afternoon Mac,

I too am thinking about this.

1. What do think about the link in post 3.

2. Available on Audi Tradition, group buy?

Andy
I guess £31 for two is a good price, compared to some other offers.
AT price is 21.99 euros, plus P&P, so not much difference.
Post #3 it is, I think.
Mac.
 
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Andrew

A2OC Donor
Oddly, collection from Car Parts For Less has a fee, but delivery is free. So delivery awaited 🤞
Mac.
Yes, an odd website and difficult to navigate, I would never have found the lights if I did not have the link.

I expect they are no-brand aftermarket but might be quite adequate. I need two and would be most interested in your opinion when they arrive.

Andy
 

steve_c

Grumpy OAP & A2OC Donor
I expect they are no-brand aftermarket but might be quite adequate. I need two and would be most interested in your opinion when they arrive.

Actually, they're genuine VAG product. I have a couple here, bought them a couple of weeks ago.
 
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steve_c

Grumpy OAP & A2OC Donor
Can anyone tell me what type of stainless screws I need to use for my light holders?
Still waiting for my stainless screws to arrive, but think that Imperial No. 6 5/8" (3.5mm x 16mm) is what you need for new units at least. Fitting new screws as replacements for heavily rusted originals is not so straightforward, unfortunately.

Screws available in marine grade (A4) stainless here:
 

PlasticMac

Member
Mine arrived a few minutes ago. Definitely the real thing.
Will fit later.
Mac
 

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PlasticMac

Member
I've fitted the new lenses. It's very annoying to have to buy the complete assembly, when you oniy need the lense.
The screws that came with the lamp assembly may be stainless, but importantly, they are not set screws, they have an unthreaded section, which is 3mm dia, while the threaded section is 4mm dia. This means the screws are captive in the lense. Is you fit 4mm screws, threaded all the way, you would have to drill out the hole to avoid cracking when fitting the screw. I wouldn't recommend it. Only fit screws with a 3mm shank, and a 4mm thread.
Because the screw is captive you should loosen, or tighten each screw a couple of turns at a time, so that the lense is not twisted, which will risk cracking the recessed section of the lense.
I found the screws started to feel tight well before the lense was seated in it's recess. I applied a bit of force, using both thumbs, and it seated in the recess. The screws are now loose again, and need tightening to compress the foam seal. Keep screwing till the lense is almost, but not quite flush with the body.
Mac.
 

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jaffa_jim

Member
Still waiting for my stainless screws to arrive, but think that Imperial No. 6 5/8" (3.5mm x 16mm) is what you need for new units at least. Fitting new screws as replacements for heavily rusted originals is not so straightforward, unfortunately.

Screws available in marine grade (A4) stainless here:
Thank you very much indeed. My screws are replacements already but still not stainless, so I am going to try to rectify this.
 

steve_c

Grumpy OAP & A2OC Donor
The screws that came with the lamp assembly may be stainless, but importantly, they are not set screws, they have an unthreaded section, which is 3mm dia, while the threaded section is 4mm dia.

All the evidence of previous screws supplied in these assemblies is that they are not stainless, so I wouldn't be using those screws I'm afraid.

I've measured the four screws that came with these in a micrometer, and the unthreaded section is indeed 3mm diameter. However, the threaded section shows as being 3.1mm - 3.2mm in diameter, and the screws can easily be fully unscrewed from the assembly. Replacing the screws in a new unit is simple, since the plastic will grip a No. 6 screw thread comfortably. The No. 6 screws I have here measure up as having a thread diameter of 3.1mm-3.2mm, so entirely correct as a direct replacement. However, fitting new lenses to an old unit successfully seems to depend on how much damage the rusting of the original screws has caused. If you go up to a No. 8 screw, you will need to enlarge the holes in the lens to accommodate it, either by drilling or filing.

For maximum corrosion resistance, get your new screws in A4 stainless, otherwise known as marine grade.
 

PlasticMac

Member
Thank you very much indeed. My screws are replacements already but still not stainless, so I am going to try to rectify this.
The thing that makes what looks straight forward fit a bit less so is the fact that the fixing screws are at about 45 degrees to the lense, so as you tighten the screws, the actual lense, which has 90 degree edges, is moving at 45 degrees to the recess, which also has 90 degree edges. There is potential for the top edge to catch on the top edge of it's recess, and if you continue to tighten the screws without noticing, it'll break. Same goes for removal.
Mac.
 

PlasticMac

Member
All the evidence of previous screws supplied in these assemblies is that they are not stainless, so I wouldn't be using those screws I'm afraid.

I've measured the four screws that came with these in a micrometer, and the unthreaded section is indeed 3mm diameter. However, the threaded section shows as being 3.1mm - 3.2mm in diameter, and the screws can easily be fully unscrewed from the assembly. Replacing the screws in a new unit is simple, since the plastic will grip a No. 6 screw thread comfortably. The No. 6 screws I have here measure up as having a thread diameter of 3.1mm-3.2mm, so entirely correct as a direct replacement. However, fitting new lenses to an old unit successfully seems to depend on how much damage the rusting of the original screws has caused. If you go up to a No. 8 screw, you will need to enlarge the holes in the lens to accommodate it, either by drilling or filing.

For maximum corrosion resistance, get your new screws in A4 stainless, otherwise known as marine grade.
I don't think my budget vernier is that far out. And the effort involved with taking the screw out to photograph would indicate there is more than tham 0.2 interference. I'll source stainless replacements to match the OEM items as I measured.
Maybe there are different screws in the parts bin. Mine are stamped as 2021 manufacture.
Mac.
 

jaffa_jim

Member
The thing that makes what looks straight forward fit a bit less so is the fact that the fixing screws are at about 45 degrees to the lense, so as you tighten the screws, the actual lense, which has 90 degree edges, is moving at 45 degrees to the recess, which also has 90 degree edges. There is potential for the top edge to catch on the top edge of it's recess, and if you continue to tighten the screws without noticing, it'll break. Same goes for removal.
Mac.
Thanks for the reminder - I've replaced a few of the lens covers in my 18 years of A2 ownership. Stainless steel fixings, where connecting with plastic should be the minimum.
 
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