Nut sizes

GordyC

New Member
I'm looking for some help on Track Rod End nuts. Before anyone cracks the usual wise remarks, it's not that sort of help I'm looking for!...

I'm about to strip out the hub/knuckle joint at the offside front and was working around the fixing points to ease my task. The Track Rod End nut came undone part way then jammed tight and is reluctant to move in either direction, not helped by the Torx inset stripping!!! I can cut/split the nut off ( the joint is fine ) but I'm unsure about the size for replacement. Does any one know what I should be looking for? I did clean the thread and lubricate beforehand which is usually good enough to get these things off but clearly, I have missed something...

Whilst I'm on, I would ask whether anyone has successfully fitted a new hub/bearing assembly WITHOUT using the tool for this. It looks to me that all that is required is a couple of spacer pieces to replicate the tool where it fits between the bearing outer race and the inside surface of the wheel hub and then just press the hub into the knuckle. I get that there is a risk of damage here, but I'm talking about fitting a brand new bearing into a brand new knuckle so cleanliness is pretty much a given, no rusty build ups, and I have a 10 ton press available to provide even pressure. As far as I can see, all that the special tool does for installation is fill that gap and pull the bearing in square, I believe I can replicate those conditions. I am aware of the stories regarding the removal of the driveshaft CV joint from the old hub and that will be my first port of call when I get back up to the car to work on it next week or so. I have a portable 3 leg hydraulic press which will be used to provide the force for removal. This has coped with Range Rover CV removal on a few of those vehicles so I'm pretty confident that it'll manage the A2 with some care, and a following wind...

Cheers and thanks for any help/advice offered.

Gordon
 
I'm looking for some help on Track Rod End nuts. Before anyone cracks the usual wise remarks, it's not that sort of help I'm looking for!...

I'm about to strip out the hub/knuckle joint at the offside front and was working around the fixing points to ease my task. The Track Rod End nut came undone part way then jammed tight and is reluctant to move in either direction, not helped by the Torx inset stripping!!! I can cut/split the nut off ( the joint is fine ) but I'm unsure about the size for replacement. Does any one know what I should be looking for? I did clean the thread and lubricate beforehand which is usually good enough to get these things off but clearly, I have missed something...

Whilst I'm on, I would ask whether anyone has successfully fitted a new hub/bearing assembly WITHOUT using the tool for this. It looks to me that all that is required is a couple of spacer pieces to replicate the tool where it fits between the bearing outer race and the inside surface of the wheel hub and then just press the hub into the knuckle. I get that there is a risk of damage here, but I'm talking about fitting a brand new bearing into a brand new knuckle so cleanliness is pretty much a given, no rusty build ups, and I have a 10 ton press available to provide even pressure. As far as I can see, all that the special tool does for installation is fill that gap and pull the bearing in square, I believe I can replicate those conditions. I am aware of the stories regarding the removal of the driveshaft CV joint from the old hub and that will be my first port of call when I get back up to the car to work on it next week or so. I have a portable 3 leg hydraulic press which will be used to provide the force for removal. This has coped with Range Rover CV removal on a few of those vehicles so I'm pretty confident that it'll manage the A2 with some care, and a following wind...

Cheers and thanks for any help/advice offered.

Gordon
Good Evening Gordon,

Is this any good...


Andy
 
For what they cost and how often they fail I would buy a pair of joints and just use a nut then you can change the joint if or when needed. Moog do the best track rod end nuts I have ever seen as they are flanged, proper sexy and how all cars should be in my opinion! VO-ES-1506 and 1507
 
I'm looking for some help on Track Rod End nuts. Before anyone cracks the usual wise remarks, it's not that sort of help I'm looking for!...

I'm about to strip out the hub/knuckle joint at the offside front and was working around the fixing points to ease my task. The Track Rod End nut came undone part way then jammed tight and is reluctant to move in either direction, not helped by the Torx inset stripping!!! I can cut/split the nut off ( the joint is fine ) but I'm unsure about the size for replacement. Does any one know what I should be looking for? I did clean the thread and lubricate beforehand which is usually good enough to get these things off but clearly, I have missed something...

Gordon
When my track rod end boots needed doing I bought

BMW Self-locking Hex Nut M12x1,5 32211094586 (285367902426) £2.76 + £2.50 p&p from ebay - bmminiparts

But when I tried to remove the old nuts the thread was too rusted and I dremeled them off and bought new

Lemforder Track Rod Ends at £28 each from local Europarts. Left: 605440975 Right: 605441165

So I never used the BMW nuts so not tested. At the same time I had problems buying non cheap rubber boots and had bought in the end bought

POLY UPGRADE TRACK ROD END/KNUCKLE GAITER at £2.10 each + £3.50 p&p Mini Spares Centre North Ltd

In the end I should have gone for the new track rod ends. Less bother, and hopefully quality from a well known brand (I think they were made in Brazil - I had hoped they would be made in Europe from a Swedish company.
 
I'm looking for some help on Track Rod End nuts. Before anyone cracks the usual wise remarks, it's not that sort of help I'm looking for!...

I'm about to strip out the hub/knuckle joint at the offside front and was working around the fixing points to ease my task. The Track Rod End nut came undone part way then jammed tight and is reluctant to move in either direction, not helped by the Torx inset stripping!!! I can cut/split the nut off ( the joint is fine ) but I'm unsure about the size for replacement. Does any one know what I should be looking for? I did clean the thread and lubricate beforehand which is usually good enough to get these things off but clearly, I have missed something...

Whilst I'm on, I would ask whether anyone has successfully fitted a new hub/bearing assembly WITHOUT using the tool for this. It looks to me that all that is required is a couple of spacer pieces to replicate the tool where it fits between the bearing outer race and the inside surface of the wheel hub and then just press the hub into the knuckle. I get that there is a risk of damage here, but I'm talking about fitting a brand new bearing into a brand new knuckle so cleanliness is pretty much a given, no rusty build ups, and I have a 10 ton press available to provide even pressure. As far as I can see, all that the special tool does for installation is fill that gap and pull the bearing in square, I believe I can replicate those conditions. I am aware of the stories regarding the removal of the driveshaft CV joint from the old hub and that will be my first port of call when I get back up to the car to work on it next week or so. I have a portable 3 leg hydraulic press which will be used to provide the force for removal. This has coped with Range Rover CV removal on a few of those vehicles so I'm pretty confident that it'll manage the A2 with some care, and a following wind...

Cheers and thanks for any help/advice offered.

Gordon
There is a gentlemen on YouTube who did change the hub on his A2 with hammer and screwdriver but I would strongly advise against this because if you try using hammer instead the tool you will highly likely damage either the fragile bearing casing or ABS ring. At the end of the day you will have to buy another hub and cost you more than if you buy the tool in first place
I paid for the tool 44£ on ebay and 29£ for new hub 73£ all in is a bargain. When you need to replace the hub again in the future you already got the tool.
 
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