One more AUDI A2 1.2TDI problem

I have redone the basic setting and the car has no codes, and drives beautifully. Yet the clicking in neutral stayed. I have decided to pay no attention :)

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There's a "spring" (for want of a better word) that is attached to the gearbox. On the end of it is a short right-angle bend that engages with a gap in the "collar" that goes round the body of the actuator. You have to mount the actuator correctly, after which a basic setting may be required.

RAB
 
Thanks a lot, my actuator looks assembled as in the pic, i dont know about the no2 part though... The car is giving me headaches, wont give up :) It stopped yesterday, is just clicking and wont select reverse. It just clicks fast and then one click every 20 sec or so, trying to select reverse. The clicking that I noticed in N is now heard when I turn off ign, its the actuator spring loosening up... I have tried fiddling with the screw that regulates voltages, loosening it up, of course it didnt do anything more than making the car even try to click or select anything :) I have two faults, 00263, and 00789. I have replaced the reverse switch and put a new oem switch like two weeks ago... I will try to do a basic setting, just to find a working vcsd.... If the basic setting fails (which it probably will) will I be able to start the car and put it in N for towing, i guess not?

Im considering doing a manual swap...

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00263 could be caused by disconnecting the hydraulic station to set the clutch actuator voltage. 00789 refers to the reversing switch; remove the connector to the reversing switch and see if there is any oil in the switch. Otherwise it is a poor or non-connection to the gearbox controller; check the connection between with a DVM. It could also be an internal gearbox fault.

For the "bracket", it wraps half-way around the actuator and the right angle bend at the end passes through a gap in a boss that passes around the body of the actuator. Remove the actuator and mount correctly, if necessary. Much easier on a Lupo than an A2; for the latter, you have to remove the hydraulic station.

A failed basic setting will prevent the engine from starting.

RAB
 
Hi. We are trying to do the basic setting. Voltage for the gear actuator is set, but in 014 its just WAIT for 15 minutes, doesnt change, any ideas?

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No, although the gear indicated at the time of stopping might give a clue. Also fault codes should be generated.

RAB
 
Well, the car started over revving on throttle but didnt pick up speed, downshifted from 2nd to 1st, then slowly drove in first until i had to stop. Then, it wouldnt move... Maybe gearbox related, mechanical problem.... We will give it a try tomorrow, and if not, it's manual swap time...

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I feel you were pretty sure that the clicking was caused by improper clutch cylinder installation, so im going to make sure its 100% by the book! I postponed adressing your warning because i was tired of being without the car, and it failed within a month accordingly. The gearbox and clutch were taken off and inspected btw, and they are in excellent condition... What electrical connections do you recommend checking Rab, and how? (Been mentioning a VDM, what is that?) Sorry for botherin you too much but i feel we are on to something :)
 
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Put it back together correctly and then report. If your clutch actuator is not correctly mounted, your clutch readings will be all over the place. If it worked some of the time before, with the clutch actuator moving around(?), maybe it's OK. VDM - something to do with diagnostics, non-Audi?

RAB
 
Hi guys, RAB.... Time to report back. I finished my manual swap a week ago and my Lupo nightmare is finally over. I used Lupo 1.0 parts and it all went smoothly, basically plug and play. All looks nice, new oem gear knob, pedals... The gearbox is original. It was just taken apart and inspected, oil changed, excellent condition. The car shifts fine, which is the most important thing. I can drive now without worrying it will leave me stranded. What a relief! I used some modified Polo 1.4Tdi 9N map I found on the internet to flash the ecu. The car drives fine BUT loses all gut at 120km/h, thats the uppermost limit, floored and nothing happens... so I guess it must be the map. The fuel consumption has even improved, probably due to poorer performance... I have a new clutch, and want to do a remap... What is the safe limit for the turbo and the injectors? Can the oem clutch take more than 90hp? I was about to ask for a bigger turbo that would be a straight swap, but there is no such thing. Maybe to hybrid the stock turbo...


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Two outer CV's here, the one on the left is for 1.4's etc, including 90hp, the one on the right is for 1.2Tdi's:

100_1514.JPG

Judge for yourself! Good luck!

RAB
 
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Thanks. I will do a mild remap to 70hp or so, or ask the tuner if he could just copy/paste original 3L map info. I would be satisfied if it ran as it did prior to the conversion... But I'm thinking like if I am paying, why not have a remap as well....Something really strange with this map. The car is so nimble but at 120km/h it is as dead as a doornail.

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