One more AUDI A2 1.2TDI problem

All is fine with the car. The mechanic asked a friend of his to try with his laptop, and the car went through all the steps fine...Thanks for your help. Good to know that there is a place like this forum :)


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Anyone with vag-com that can help me carry out basic setting on my A2.
I'm willing to travel.

besta2
 
Guys, Lupo drives fine, in fact great, apart from obviously either losing hydraulics oil (which i doubt since all the seals are new) or spilling it because the system is overfilled again. The area around the accumulator and plastic container is smeared with clean oil a bit, even th green cap is oily, and some of it has oiled the area below the system. Is there any danger in letting it get rid of the excess oil on itself, or should i somehow suck it out, perhaps using a suction tube?


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To correct the oil level, you should disconnect the hydraulic staion electrically and loosen the accumulator half a turn. Fill (or not) with oil so that the level is within the 'rectangle'. Re-tighten the acuumulator and reconnect electrically.

RAB
 
Well, I guess it is within the rectangle? But maybe it IS a lot, since the system may increase the level overnight, right? The old accumulator would suck in almost all the oil from the container, whereas this new one i think uses a lot smaller amount... I took a pic just now..
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There is oil in the area below the accumulator, and hydraulic pump is oily at the base as well...

How did the oil get here, i have no clue....
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Can i just wait for the self-bleeding to stop? Is it necessary to do basic setting again after electrically disconnecting the unit? Can i just remove battery instead of disconnecting the unit, because i dont know how to do it? Sorry for asking a lot, but i i guess i can do this on my own, apart from electrically disconnecting things :) .... Thanks!


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I left the hood open so that the pump wouldnt activate, and checked the oil level again. It has risen to the point that it is visible when i remove the cap. Using the suringe, i have extracted as much as I could, and will take a look tomorow morning prior to starting the car. Will this be enough? Can I leave it at that without danger of doing any harm? Or perhaps I could use the engine oil extraction tube to suck out most of the oil from the container and then just fill up as much as needed? The plastic container has little chambers s it is impossible to use surringe and tiny hose, something that i tried, as the hose cant find its
way down into the container...


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Btw, changing the accumulator was a good thing. i could make only 1 gear change in tiptronic prior to changing it, now i can make 6 changes before the pump kicks in. I have 2 more questions... I find it enjoyable to drive the car in tiptronic mode. Does it put more or less stress on the gearbox, and could the car be driven in tiptronic on a regular basis? Second, i have just picked up Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE 75W manual transmission gearbox oil... I have watched a guide on You Tube about changing the oil. The guy recommended to put in 2dl of oil extra, so as to make the tranny get more lubrication and last longer. Whats your view on this? Google says you should not overfill tranny fluid? Sorry for asking a lot, I am trying to get some kmowledge about all of this :) Tnx


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Engine mounts look Ok, dogbone rubber is maybe a little soft.. One mount is welded, and the mechanic told me to check whether the car has hydro mounts? If so, one may be suspicious. What he asked me to ask and check is, whether this is the normal position for the 3L engine? It looks a bit askew? The car doesn't seem to have been involved in any kind of accident! Here is a pic, so please help guys... The vibrations are quite irritating, and i am having difficulty finding a solution. Tnx in advance!
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Guys, i bought the 2 engine mounts, but cant dind sny info regarding the gearbox mount or dogbone. My first step is trying to replace the mounts... Can you pre chance find the oem part no. for the dogbone for Lupo 3L?


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Tnx RAB. Please take a look at this. Is it excessive, or ...? What i gathered from your posts, and some other knowledgeable people is to first try replacing the mounts, then check the cluch, balancer shaft and chain, flywheel. Am i missing something? There is no loss of power, smoke, so i guess injectors are Ok. Problem only idle, stopping, and all situations when rews drop below 900ehttps://vimeo.com/167340579
You can hear the abnormal clonking noise that finds its way into the cabin...



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seems like its down on one cylinder..... could possibly be an injector wiring harness fault

Cammy
 
iwcham1979 said:
You can hear the abnormal clonking noise that finds its way into the cabin...
Click to expand...

All fairly normal I think. It's a three cylinder engine so you have unbalanced moving masses, which the balancer shaft is not a complete answer to. All our ANY/AYZ idle in the same way.

RAB
 
Ok, i am going to try with the mounts first, and report back. If that doesnt help, maybe it's the cluch that needs to be changed. Can the cluch produce rattle in cabin in neutral at idle if it is failing? (Interestingly, only 100 rpm more seem to stop cabin and steering wheel vibrations.) If you say that the engine sounds Ok, i guess you wouldnt recommend removing the oil sump and checking the balancer shaft, chain... I have just replaced all filters and poured 507.00 Mobil RSP Formula, and i presime i would have to throw away new oil if i removed the sump.


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Possible culprit. Unfortunately, i ordered the wrong mount, so this one was put back for now...
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Guys, is there any company that manufactures this mount? It is very expensive through the dealer, somewhat over 300 euros?


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Why do you need one? Read my post above. It's a three cylinder diesel, not a Napier Sabre!

RAB
 
I know that Rab, but it has leaked the oil, and the car is vibrating and shaking at idle and low speed when braking quite nicely. I will not pay 300e for that atm, unless i really risk damaging something though...


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