P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/ Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/ Performance - help please

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BigG76

New Member
Hello all, new to the forum so please be kind!

I purchased a 2001 1.4 petrol Audi A2 which has the engine light in permanently. I purchased a a Nexas Nexlink scanner and found error code P0106 as the issue. Car seems to run fine, starts ok but does sometime ‘hold back’ when I accelerate. After some research, i changed the MAP sensor which made zero difference. It may be a vacuum leak but I’m struggling to work out where this is or even if a leak would cause the error. Can anyone advise please, car has 103k with good service history. Thank you
 
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Fault code P0401 & P0106

Hi, The amber engine light came on a while back and displayed fault code P0401 - EGR flow insufficient. I reset it and it came back on after a short drive. I scanned it again and also got fault code P0106 Map/Baro CKT range/performance. Just wondering what the best course of action is?
www.a2oc.net
 
Good Evening,

Ross-Tech do mention an air leak as the cause, among others.

16490/P0106/000262 - Ross-Tech Wiki

wiki.ross-tech.com wiki.ross-tech.com

Usual starter suggestion is to check seals on oil filler cap on top of engine and dipstick.

Andy

Edit: Have a good read of the threads listed below.
 
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Hi, as mentioned above, the MAP sensors get dirty too, so gently cleaning them is a good idea, plus chances are the egr needs cleaning or better replacing, which isn't surprising, as probably still the factory one.
Great info here: https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/1-4-petrol-maf-sensor-location-and-cleaning.41152/
If you're already there, clean the throttle body too, replace seals. It might sound much, but if you're okay with DIY, with the infos available on the forum, you can do them. You'll also need vcds to adapt both egr and throttle body, because as soon as they're unplugged, the cccu can't recognise them anymore. You'd also get old-style xtool vag401, difficult to find and not cheap, but can do adaptation and fits in the glove box, I always have mine in the car.
Also running Cataclean through the system is a good idea, helps with emissions a lot, Halford usually got them.

You'd also check the vacuum lines for cracks/splits, mostly behind firewall as if they come off the clips, they can rub and they're only visible from under the car, with the tray removed.

These might sound a bit too much, but chances are most have never been done, and the A2 are around 20 years old by now, so there are necessary things to check.
I'd never done these cleansing/changes in any cars before, but I've had done them and more on my A2, thanks to the infos available on the forum, I've learnt a lot for sure.

If you rather not do diy, you can get them done at a garage of course. Either way, if you willing to sort them, the A2s are great companion with very good design features, I had even been asked if the car is 3 years old :cool:

As an extra, if you've difficulty reading the twisty oil dipstick, 1.4 aua A2s until 2002, have got a 2nd dipstick hole, I found them a blessing, where you can use a normal flat dipstick&tube from a polo, Mtl Garage has got a youtube vid about it.
 
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BigG76 said:
Thanks Andrew. I had noticed that there is no dipstick under the bonnet, just the tube. Is this normal?
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It is normal for there to be a dipstick in a tube that pulls out for inspection behind the fold down front service hatch, no need to remove bonnet.

There is no traditional lift bonnet and pull dipstick from engine block. (Unless one has been subsequentially added, possible on some early specific engine codes - easier to read.)

Andy
 
Sylvester said:
It's recommended to read the manual as it has many useful infos, some rather necessary. To see if you'd add a 2nd dipstick or not, check @mtl's video
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Thank you. Yes I had seen that video before. I hadn’t really explained myself properly. What I meant was that I have the twisty dipstick at the front under the access panel but when I remove the bonnet I just have a tube (no dipstick) in the ‘conventional’ spot for a dipstick. I understand I can retrofit one but wondered if the tube would need to be sealed and could this throw up the p0106 error..
 
BigG76 said:
Thank you. Yes I had seen that video before. I hadn’t really explained myself properly. What I meant was that I have the twisty dipstick at the front under the access panel but when I remove the bonnet I just have a tube (no dipstick) in the ‘conventional’ spot for a dipstick. I understand I can retrofit one but wondered if the tube would need to be sealed and could this throw up the p0106 error..
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There's nothing in the tube??? So you don't even know the amount of oil in the engine?? That should be sealed completely! Yes very possible that causes the air leak fault code. Even if the seal around the oil cap is damaged, can cause leak and throw the code.

But the other issue is, that tube goes straight to the engine oil, which goes to the engine of course, so if anyhing gone into it, like rain or dirty, bugs and any hard material etc, that can serious issues. You gotta do an oil and filter change ASAP and try not to drive until then. If you really have to drive, twist inside a thick line of textile, nor fluff of any kind, leave half of it outside, fold it back and roll tape or zip tie around it.
Another question is, did the previous owner know about it and still sold it to you and also how long has it been like that. I recommend not to drive it at all, until you do the oil+filter change and checking the spark plugs is a good idea too.
 
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BigG76 said:
Thank you. Yes I had seen that video before. I hadn’t really explained myself properly. What I meant was that I have the twisty dipstick at the front under the access panel but when I remove the bonnet I just have a tube (no dipstick) in the ‘conventional’ spot for a dipstick. I understand I can retrofit one but wondered if the tube would need to be sealed and could this throw up the p0106 error..
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Good Afternoon,

A picture would be worth a thousand words.

Andy
 
Sylvester said:
There's nothing in the tube??? So you don't even know the amount of oil in the engine?? That should be sealed completely! Yes very possible that causes the air leak fault code. Even if the seal around the oil cap is damaged, can cause leak and throw the code.

But the other issue is, that tube goes straight to the engine oil, which goes to the engine of course, so if anyhing gone into it, like rain or dirty, bugs and any hard material etc, that can serious issues. You gotta do an oil and filter change ASAP and try not to drive until then. If you really have to drive, twist inside a thick line of textile, nor fluff of any kind, leave half of it outside, fold it back and roll tape or zip tie around it.
Another question is, did the previous owner know about it and still sold it to you and also how long has it been like that. I recommend not to drive it at all, until you do the oil+filter change and checking the spark plugs is a good idea too.
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Thank you. To be honest I hadn’t really seen the tube as the seller only pointed out the dipstick that pops out at the front. I will do the oil change, unfortunately need to drive the car as needed for work
 
BigG76 said:
Thank you. To be honest I hadn’t really seen the tube as the seller only pointed out the dipstick that pops out at the front. I will do the oil change, unfortunately need to drive the car as needed for work
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Oh I get it now, so you actually got the front dipstick present, when you open the front grill, you can take it out and all the bottom with the orange end is there.

What you miss, is the cover for the 2nd disptick. That's not an official dipstick hole, it just stayed behind after conversion from Polo 1.4. On the earlier models it was covered with a simple rubber cap, after 2002 they sealed it for good. Try to cover it as stated above, but make sure it's properly fit, as if whatever you use will come off that tube, could end up among the belts and pulley, and that's not gonna be great for sure.
 
My car is 2001 so I managed to seal it temporarily as you suggested thanks. I’ve reset the code, I’ll let you know if it’s a fix (or not)
 
Sylvester said:
Oh I get it now, so you actually got the front dipstick present, when you open the front grill, you can take it out and all the bottom with the orange end is there.

What you miss, is the cover for the 2nd disptick. That's not an official dipstick hole, it just stayed behind after conversion from Polo 1.4. On the earlier models it was covered with a simple rubber cap, after 2002 they sealed it for good. Try to cover it as stated above, but make sure it's properly fit, as if whatever you use will come off that tube, could end up among the belts and pulley, and that's not gonna be great for sure.
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Light came back 🫠
 
BigG76 said:
Light came back 🫠
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The issue can be more complicated then, also try driving a bit more, to see if that changes anything.
Sealing that tube is essential, no question, unfortunately by now, as it's probably been driven for a while like that, it may have affected other engine parts/components, especially if something has gone inside and down the oil.
It's still recommended to go under the car, tray off and look for split hoses, as stated before. Oil change is still priority of course.

Also after so much dirt and water might've gone down the pipe, by now it's a good idea anyway, to clean the MAP sensor and changing the oil separator, that collect humidity from the engine, mine was so full of yellow gunk, I had to get a new one.

Also as cars with high milage and unknown services history, things like full service, including cabin filter as well, brakes fluid change, which also reservoir for clutch and has separate bleeding nipple, is really necessary. Then TB and EGR cleaning when more you've diy time, like a weekend, the weather is good now, so at least you don't have to do it in winter time, also you don't have to do them at once. Good news is, there's a lot of great infos on this forum and members are helping a lot too.
 
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Sylvester said:
The issue can be more complicated then, also try driving a bit more, to see if that changes anything.
Sealing that tube is essential, no question, unfortunately by now, as it's probably been driven for a while like that, it may have affected other engine parts/components, especially if something has gone inside and down the oil.
It's still recommended to go under the car, tray off and look for split hoses, as stated before. Oil change is still priority of course.

Also after so much dirt and water might've gone down the pipe, by now it's a good idea anyway, to clean the MAP sensor and changing the oil separator, that collect humidity from the engine, mine was so full of yellow gunk, I had to get a new one.

Also as cars with high milage and unknown services history, things like full service, including cabin filter as well, brakes fluid change, which also reservoir for clutch and has separate bleeding nipple, is really necessary. Then TB and EGR cleaning when more you've diy time, like a weekend, the weather is good now, so at least you don't have to do it in winter time, also you don't have to do them at once. Good news is, there's a lot of great infos on this forum and members are helping a lot too.
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Great, thank you for taking the time to reply. Dirty hands time!
 
Bit of an update which may help others. I removed the large plastic vent to get access the the air intake box which is held in place by one screw and two rubber bungs. After removal, one of the pipes had a large indentation which I’ve heard is cause by the brake lines. I applied a small amount of glue and taped the pipe and sprayed the intake with carb cleaner. Reassembled, removed the code and hey presto! The engine management light hasn’t come back 😊
 
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