P0299 - After EGR Clean

jonjo

jonjo

Member
Any help advice appreciated...I cleaned the EGR (moderately coked up but not horrendous) and a day or so later found EML on, along with hesitant power. I don't think its 'full' limp mode as there is some power lower in the revs but it noticeably pulls back when you hit higher revs.

My thoughts so far are;
Have I accidentally introduced water into the EGR vacuum lines when cleaning, what affect would this have and wouldn't it evaporate out and reset?
Could I have damaged the vacuum hose from the EGR, is there an easy way to tell aside from visual inspection or outright replacement?
Could I have a leak on the exhaust inlet to EGR - would this throw the same code?
Could I have an unfortunately timed and coincidental turbo seals issue?

I don't have easy access to under the car so checking the turbo is difficult but will go with consensus and find a way.

Ross Tech...
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16683/P0299/000665

Anyone had similar or can help dismiss any of the above?
 
jonjo said:
Any help advice appreciated...I cleaned the EGR (moderately coked up but not horrendous) and a day or so later found EML on, along with hesitant power. I don't think its 'full' limp mode as there is some power lower in the revs but it noticeably pulls back when you hit higher revs.

My thoughts so far are;
Have I accidentally introduced water into the EGR vacuum lines when cleaning, what affect would this have and wouldn't it evaporate out and reset?
Could I have damaged the vacuum hose from the EGR, is there an easy way to tell aside from visual inspection or outright replacement?
Could I have a leak on the exhaust inlet to EGR - would this throw the same code?
Could I have an unfortunately timed and coincidental turbo seals issue?

I don't have easy access to under the car so checking the turbo is difficult but will go with consensus and find a way.

Ross Tech...
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16683/P0299/000665

Anyone had similar or can help dismiss any of the above?
Click to expand...
The obvious conclusion is that it relates to the work you’ve done however the symptoms are very similar to when one of mine blew the end caps off it’s intercooler.

Photo looking down from the top of the engine shows this. If your intercooler looks like that then that’s the issue.
 

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Erlingtheyounger said:
The obvious conclusion is that it relates to the work you’ve done however the symptoms are very similar to when one of mine blew the end caps off it’s intercooler.

Photo looking down from the top of the engine shows this. If your intercooler looks like that then that’s the issue.
Click to expand...
Interesting, did it throw up the same code? As part of the general 'clean-up' I was going to take the intercooler off at some point and degrease it, I'll be keeping an eye out for this, thanks!
 
jonjo said:
Interesting, did it throw up the same code? As part of the general 'clean-up' I was going to take the intercooler off at some point and degrease it, I'll be keeping an eye out for this, thanks!
Click to expand...
Because it was so obvious what the issue was visually a scan wasn’t needed or done,
 
I suspect the EGR is not the issue but while cleaning you have disturbed some pipework. As your profile states tdi 90 then most of the pipes ( the small thin ones ) are vacuum pipes. There is a possibility one was covered in muck but that was what was holding the vacuum. So have a good look around the engine bay in a 2 foot radius of the EGR for loose or damaged pipes. All pipes should fit tightly as a tiny leak on the pipes can cause the turbo to not produce boost. The intercooler is possible but so is the MAP sensor. I recommend that you have a full VCDS scan done as generics not ideal for the A2.
If your profile is wrong then correct it and come back here for other things to check.

Edited to correct autocorrect!!
 
Last edited:
audifan said:
I suspect the EGR is not the issue but while cleaning you have disturbed some pipework. As your profile states tdi 90 then most of the pipes ( the small thin ones ) are pressure pipes.
Click to expand...
I think you'll find that they are vacuum, not pressure.

RAB
 
@RAB, yes not pressure but indeed vacuum lines. Twice now text has changes pressure to vacuum , do not know why.
Still waiting confirmation from OP as to his engine type.

Post has been edited to correct.
 
@audifan sorry, yes TDI90. I will need to get my head right in there to check the hoses, any tips to check without access to a ramp?
 
For others searching similar faults...

It turned out to be a faulty re-wire on the MAP sensor (guilty) which damaged the ECU.
I had done this MAP loom repair previously with solder but wanted to do a decent job with automotive crimps so did this work before cleaning the EGR.
I rushed it and must have accidentally switched wires.
I did turn the car over and sat at idle for 5 mins to see it was OK but didn't give it a proper test drive before working on the EGR.

Turns out this 'accident' damaged the ECU and had to be sent for 'repair'.

Since it returned the idle is lower than the previous 1K rpm at around 900-950rpm and there is a lot less torque low down. The latter leads me to believe there could have been a custom map on the car from a previous owner. Gutted if that's the case.

Also had a couple of occasions where starting is difficult, feels fuel supply related which could be the ECU map again. Probably a different thread now! Sorry Admin, just wanted to update everyone.
 
Update from the update…

The garage blamed my wiring, told me I had damaged the ECU, charged me for a repair but actually switched it for an AMF ECU ? this caused endless grief as above with no starting, lost power, hesitations and a weird sneeze to stall/stop.
When I borrowed an ATL ECU all these symptoms disappeared!

Although I was left with the original MAP fault codes 18000 and 17564.

Cleared the codes, removed the MAP and blew on it (old games cartridge style) reseated, cut the cable-tie web holding the connector in that the garage made to “cure the hesitations” and rotated the inlet pipe to antishudder joint to make it tight. No codes…one of these little tweaks has cured it temporarily.

Full boost, no EML, happy little fault factory.

Lesson 1) do not trust your local garage
Lesson 2) photograph and date your vin, CCU and ECU serials
Lesson 3) if you’ve done some work and a symptom pops up, always check hoses and connections (as audifan says) in the nearby area.
Lesson 4) try to make one change at a time!
Lesson 5) do not trust your local garage

I’m happy to add more to this if it helps others!
 
Thats horrendous have you taken this up with the garage? Unless you agreed to Immo delete then the AMF ecu must have its immo bypassed?
 
I do not "think" wrongly wired MAP sensor could blow the ECU. It could give a false signal that could trigger an error and make the ECU run a default value.

The fitment of the wrong ECU is really not on. Where is your ECU? I am not a map expert but would think that if there is a different part number between an AMF and ATL there must be enough differences for Audi to warrant the manufacturing of different units.

I think you would still need an ATL standard ECU to rule out other issues - even another borrowed unit. The immo as pointed out by @Howey is another important issue as your car is no longer as produced and COULD cause insurance problems.

Name and shame the garage unless they fix the problems they have caused both quickly and importantly FREE OF CHARGE to you.
 
The immobiliser and insurance are very good points! I would not have been covered driving with the incorrect ECU.

They told me they had repaired the ECU and this is what I paid for.
The AMF ECU they installed was a different suffix, when I confronted them they agreed they couldn’t find a replacement so flashed my map into one that ‘mostly’ matched, that they they didn’t have both ecus in their hands to compare numbers and then told me the repairer had changed it out and they weren’t responsible, only the accountants know who do the ECU repairs ?

I had my suspicions that it might have been a faulty repair (hence borrowing one from a member here) but never thought they would completely swap it out!

Months of frustration chasing problems that were caused by the ECU being for a different model…ASV, turbo, sensors etc all different! It stuffed the starter and the CCU isn’t happy but I won’t know the full impact until it’s been driven a little.

Please note your rare part serial numbers!
 
You still really need the correct part number ATL ECU for your car. Granted any custom map has now gone, but I would prefer an unmapped but sensor and ECU matching car any day.

So they never informed you that a) it was not your ECU any more and b) that it was indeed a reflashed AMF unit installed? I would still demand that your ECU is returned to you as no permission was given for its substitution. OK is sort of got you on the road again but that is not how any professional outfit operates.

If you can avoid driving until at least the correct ECU has been fitted.

@A2Steve @Clackers @Ami or anyone breaking an ATL able to assist you with a correct part number ECU????
 
audifan said:
You still really need the correct part number ATL ECU for your car. Granted any custom map has now gone, but I would prefer an unmapped but sensor and ECU matching car any day.

So they never informed you that a) it was not your ECU any more and b) that it was indeed a reflashed AMF unit installed? I would still demand that your ECU is returned to you as no permission was given for its substitution. OK is sort of got you on the road again but that is not how any professional outfit operates.

If you can avoid driving until at least the correct ECU has been fitted.

@A2Steve @Clackers @Ami or anyone breaking an ATL able to assist you with a correct part number ECU????
Click to expand...
Thanks @audifan, I still have one on loan from Timmus until I can get this garage to return mine, if they still have it. Timmus has been amazing helping out with the right ECU for the ATL.

The garage told me mine was repaired and then continued to suggest the subsequent problems could be fuel or electrical related. It’s now unlikely there was a map on my original ECU, I just didn’t have a benchmark to compare at the time and couldn’t explain the loss of power. I thought there had been a map to solve fuel issues but in hindsight that was all caused by mis matched ECU. Shocking behaviour from a garage. All I really wanted was a scan and easy fix…9 painful months later and a wriggle of hoses and the problem is solved ? no damaged ECU this time!
 
I guess that the lesson to learn here is before you put your car in for work make sure anything you have done looks factory. Before they do any work get them to document the work its cost and serial numbers and part numbers of items that they want to replace.

Glad Timmus was able to help with a loan ECU?
 
For info, an ATL ECU is 045 906 019F. It's not used by anything else.

RAB
 
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