P0302 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected

I was not happy for long. It seems like the car don't like to come to a new home.
After we change the throttle house I was backing up the car and due to the erratic idle I manage to stall the car and then the engine light began to flash. Now I got the message that it was misfire cylinder 2.
I manage to get the car back to the Polish car mechanic and he found out that the we need to overhaul the top of the engine.
So he sent the engine top to Polen and he also found out that it was a broken piston ring on cylinder two. So I purchased a new piston with rings.
He called my yesterday and was happy to say that the car run fine and that all seems okay.
The only ting he has to do later is update to the latest firmware on the ecu. And check if he can get the idle to go up, because it is to low.

I drew the car home and all seems fine. That was yesterday. Today I took the car out for a spin to purchase some tools, and when I was backing in to a parking space I manage to stall the car. Not once but three times. It's so easy to do this with this car because of the erratic idle.
After that the engine light came on and the car is in limp mode.

Now I have used more money on parts then I gave for the car. So now I don't know what to do. Every time we think the car is okay I manage to stall it and the faults came back. I have not checked with vcds what's wrong this time, but I can image that it is "misfire cylinder two" again.

At least I washed the car and polished it. So if the Polish car mechanic can take a look at it again, I would be happy.
I wonder if it can be the fuel pump that can be defective since it's so erratic on idle. But I don't know enough about car to know.

Does anyone have a clue on what it could be?

Regards

Glenn
 
Now we have ordered a new camshaft and will try to change that. It was worn so it could be that, but another friend said that it would not give me a misfire cylinder two error.
It could be that the top of the engine has an crack, because when the engine is cold it works fine, but when it gets hot I get the engine light.
The heat could expand any crack that the top may have an make that error.

So the car from hell is still not fixed. But I guess we will know for sure if it is the camshaft when next week is over.
 
I too have a 1.4 AUA from hell with what seems to be exactly the same symptoms.

I've had the head overhauled, new hydraulic tappets and the problem remains. Cylinder no 2 misfire. Lumpy idle gets worse as the car warms up until I get the ECU shutting the fuel to this cylinder. I've pushed it to one side at the moment as I've had enough.
I have borrowed a picoscope but haven't had much time playing with it yet.
I've tried lots of diagnosis, compression tests, leak down test, swapped injectors, leads, coil pack but no joy yet.
Still get a tapping from the engine, cam didnt look too worn, I maybe should have changed the roller rocker arms on that cylinder too.
Cam doesn't look worn enough to cause an issue.
 
I too have a 1.4 AUA from hell with what seems to be exactly the same symptoms.

I've had the head overhauled, new hydraulic tappets and the problem remains. Cylinder no 2 misfire. Lumpy idle gets worse as the car warms up until I get the ECU shutting the fuel to this cylinder. I've pushed it to one side at the moment as I've had enough.
I have borrowed a picoscope but haven't had much time playing with it yet.
I've tried lots of diagnosis, compression tests, leak down test, swapped injectors, leads, coil pack but no joy yet.
Still get a tapping from the engine, cam didnt look too worn, I maybe should have changed the roller rocker arms on that cylinder too.
Cam doesn't look worn enough to cause an issue.
double check the plug leads, I had exactly this issue with an AUA engine spent for ever on it, would start from cold on all 4 cylinders then after about 5 mins as it warmed up it would start to run on only 3, always No2 that had the misfires
I changed every sensor, throttle body and even the knock sensor at the back of the engine, plug and still it did the same
eventually I checked the plug lead for the third time, and found a little pin hole near the plug end. I put some 1 1/4" heat shrink around it and the engine can perfect on 4 cylinders - I had a few beers to celebrate and then a few more :)
 
Hi Glenn,
Did you ever get to the bottom of your misfire?
I've given up on mine at the moment. The car has been sat in my mum's garage for months now.
To everyone in the last couple of posts above, it's definitely not a plug lead. I've exchanged them between cylinders, and also used a lead from the picoscope and still it was exactly the same.
I liked the idea of owning an A2 but this one's pretty much killed the dream :(
Cheers,
Ross
 
Hi Rosstbeef.
My car has been with a car mechanic for 4 month now. The valves was sometimes stuck so he bought a refurbished top.
I got the car back on Friday. But when I came home and let the car idle the engine lamp came on.
I used VCDS and it was missfire cylinder 2 once more. I beginning to hate this car. But one thing the car mechanic notice about the car was that the toothed camshaft wheel was wobbling. So I will order a new one and se if that will help. Other then that I don't know what to do. I guess I will know before Christmas. ;)
Cheers,
Glenn
 
Hi Rosstbeef.
My car has been with a car mechanic for 4 month now. The valves was sometimes stuck so he bought a refurbished top.
I got the car back on Friday. But when I came home and let the car idle the engine lamp came on.
I used VCDS and it was missfire cylinder 2 once more. I beginning to hate this car. But one thing the car mechanic notice about the car was that the toothed camshaft wheel was wobbling. So I will order a new one and se if that will help. Other then that I don't know what to do. I guess I will know before Christmas. ;)
Cheers,
Glenn

It really sounds like we have EXACTLY the same fault.
I had the black inlet valve etc too like you.
I had the head overhauled, they sleeved the exhaust valves as they said there was a lot of play, and reground all of them. The head came back looking like new.
But the problem was still exactly the same.
I haven't had the car running long enough for the misfire to be detected by the ECU yet. But you can tell the idle is lumpy and if you pull the wire off number 2 injector there is little difference to the engine.
I swapped injectors about again and used the picoscope but they all seemed fine. The waveforms were all good. Not sure if they are all spraying fuel at the correct time though. Didn't know how to check that.
I get a tapping sound from the top end of the engine still like there's a mechanical problem.
I don't want to throw money at the car if it's not fixing the problem.

Keep me posted on how things go with yours. I'll do the same when I do more to it.
 
It really sounds like we have EXACTLY the same fault.
I had the black inlet valve etc too like you.
I had the head overhauled, they sleeved the exhaust valves as they said there was a lot of play, and reground all of them. The head came back looking like new.
But the problem was still exactly the same.
I haven't had the car running long enough for the misfire to be detected by the ECU yet. But you can tell the idle is lumpy and if you pull the wire off number 2 injector there is little difference to the engine.
I swapped injectors about again and used the picoscope but they all seemed fine. The waveforms were all good. Not sure if they are all spraying fuel at the correct time though. Didn't know how to check that.
I get a tapping sound from the top end of the engine still like there's a mechanical problem.
I don't want to throw money at the car if it's not fixing the problem.

Keep me posted on how things go with yours. I'll do the same when I do more to it.

Yes is seems like it is the same fault.
The idle on mine is much better after I purchased a new overhauled head. We also bought 8 new valves. A new piston and rings on cylinder 2.
I rode the car 40 km and it worked just fine. But when I stopped and let the car idle for 1 min, the engine error lamp appear.
What was really strange is that I had problems finding the toothed camshaft wheel purchase number. Looked at elsawin but did not find the serial number there either. But when I looked at pictures of Audi A2 camshaft, I came across your picture and by magnifying the picture I could read the serial number of the part. So now I have ordered the new part and I will give you an update when we have received it and installed it.
Regards
Glenn
Ps. I have also a tapping sound from the engine. I know that the mechanic has changed the tapets on this but stil there are sounds that makes me believe that this car wants to be a diesel. :)
 
Just went back over your thread and have a couple of questions...
did you replace the ECU in the end?
When the head was replaced, did you exchange the cam housing, all the roller rockers and camshafts as well as the hydraulic tappets, or are some of these the originals?
 
I first replaced one ecu and the new mechanic replaced another one, with the latest firmware. So that should not be the problem.
He said that old firmware could cause a problem, but he has upgraded mine, so it must be something else.
We did not exchange the cam housing, camshaft or roller rockers. Only eight of the valves, hydraulic tappes and valve seal/guides.

One of the mechanics that gave up the car, is a friend of mine. And he said that this is the worst car and only car he have not found out what is wrong with. The other car mechanic is an Audi and VW mechanic and this is also the worst car when it comes to diagnostics. So if this does not work, I thinking about buying a used engine. But as the mechanic said. We have replaced almost everything on this engine, the only thing that we have not replaced are three pistons. I replaced piston on cylinder two, so I have three to go. But it is always cylinder 2 that is the problem.

The car from hell, do they call it.
 
What a frustrating experience.... :(
You must have spent so much money on the car till this date...kudos for your resilience. Most people had probably given up.
 
Yes is has been frustrating. Especially since I bought this car for my wife.
We have owned the car for almost two years and she has stil not used it.
I gave £2300,- for the car and have used more then £2700,- on parts and labor.
I'm lucky that most of the repairs has been done by a friend of mine with some help from me. (he tells me what tools he need and I give it to him :D)

The reason I have not given up is because I have come to the point of no return. If it is just a little more money I can't stop. I will never get my money back if I sell the car, so it's better if I do get it to run normal. And I have never been the type to give up. :)

Thanks for the nice words!

Cheers,
Glenn
 
New update and finally everything works great.
I have had the car with an mechanic and this is the worst case he has ever worked with. We have changed almost every sensor in the car but that dit not fix the misfire problem. There was also a lack of compression on cylinder 2. So thought that he should check the crankshaft for wear. And it was not much but 0.04, so he asked me if he could get an old one from another car. And by now I have used so much money on the car that there is no problem with that little amount. And I have not heard from him for a couple of weeks, and he called me today and said that the engine is running just fine. I could almost not belive it. I have heard that one before and I'm skeptical that this car is ever going to work. But I tok the ride to the mechanic and he told me that either the person that has been working on the car before have used a crankshaft that is smaler in thickness then the one he got. He also could not fine any serial number on the part, witch also is strange. So that could be the reason the misfire and lack of compression on cylinder 2 have occurred.

There is still a ticking noise from the engine but he said that it was most likely the knock sensor that made that. I could try to re tighten it with 26nm and see if that helped. But on my way home the car worked just fine. But it was on the freeway and there is never a problem there. The problem always starts when I drive in traffic and I have to stop for a red light. Then I used to have to rev the engine or it would go in to limp mode.
But this time it was no problem. The tachometer stays at the same place at idle. Before it used to jump up and down.

So now I'm happy. Finally I can get my Audi A6 for my self, and my wife can have her A2. :)

Have a great summer everybody.

Regards
Glenn
 
That's so great you've finally found a fix. I hope it's still running well? I still need to have another go at fixing mine.

Was it definitely replacing the crankshaft at the bottom end of the engine that fixed the problem, or was it the camshaft at the top of the engine? Want to be sure before I have another look at mine.

Thanks,
Ross
 
Sorry for the late answer Rosstbeef, I don't get notifications when I have received new messages so I must look at that.
We changed the camshaft at the top of the engine.

No more fault messages but there is a knocking noise, witch the mechanic says is the knock sensor that is not tighten correct.
He says that i must try to wiggle it and tighten it back on to the right nm and see if it goes away.
But the car runs fine so I have not bothered looking at that.

Regards

Glenn
 
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