PlasticMac
Member
Any idea what the Bosch kit was monitoring, to make the diagnosis?
Mac.
Sorry for the Radio silence, my 'couple of days away' didn't go as planned - ended up with a written off motorcycle and 2 fractured vertebrae. Still a couple of weeks away from driving (in a neck collar right now), but I can confirm that changing the petrol cap made no difference. As soon as I get some neck movement back, I plan to get back on the diagnosis trail and will update with my finding. Thanks again.
PlasticMac
Member
Don't rush the recovery, your long term physical health is more important than any car even an FSI!
Mac.
Crgwal
A2OC Donor
I spent almost 2 years going through about 10 errors on my fsi. Now all clear.
I would first not start buying things at all. Fuel cap? Yeah I get why you would think of buying one but with no error codes try stop yourself. You WILL spend lots this way.
What does sluggish really mean?
The FSI is quite sluggish in general at low rpm especially when aircon is on. Without really knowing I would not start guessing.
I have found its worth spending money with a good garage JUST to run diagnostics.
Personally I would start with this. Get some good diagnostics done on your car. Try find an audi specialist garage.
I went down many many different areas with my car. To be honest, even as a lot of errors disappeared and things were fixed. I never really noticed much difference in the cars day to day. Except for its steady idle speed and increased power around 2.8k rpms. And maybe it sounded a little quieter...
I would first not start buying things at all. Fuel cap? Yeah I get why you would think of buying one but with no error codes try stop yourself. You WILL spend lots this way.
What does sluggish really mean?
The FSI is quite sluggish in general at low rpm especially when aircon is on. Without really knowing I would not start guessing.
I have found its worth spending money with a good garage JUST to run diagnostics.
Personally I would start with this. Get some good diagnostics done on your car. Try find an audi specialist garage.
I went down many many different areas with my car. To be honest, even as a lot of errors disappeared and things were fixed. I never really noticed much difference in the cars day to day. Except for its steady idle speed and increased power around 2.8k rpms. And maybe it sounded a little quieter...
PlasticMac
Member
The FSI has peak torque at around 4,000 rpm, if you try to get it to pull away at low revs, it has little torque, which might be described as sluggish I guess. @bleng has done a VCDS scan, with no engine related DTCs.
The check on the flap mech I have suggested is free. I've suggested this because the symptom could be inlet flap related, but the no DTC is odd. Could be that the flap linkage is OK, so the potentiometer is seeing the appropriate movement, but the flap spindle, or the flaps themselves are not. Long shot is someone has done something very clever around the EML. I've heard of an Arduino being used to drive the EML, to illuminate at ignition on then go out when engine starts.
It'll be a while till we get an update, meanwhile best wishes to @bleng for a speedy recovery
Mac.
The check on the flap mech I have suggested is free. I've suggested this because the symptom could be inlet flap related, but the no DTC is odd. Could be that the flap linkage is OK, so the potentiometer is seeing the appropriate movement, but the flap spindle, or the flaps themselves are not. Long shot is someone has done something very clever around the EML. I've heard of an Arduino being used to drive the EML, to illuminate at ignition on then go out when engine starts.
It'll be a while till we get an update, meanwhile best wishes to @bleng for a speedy recovery
Mac.
2work
Well Known Member
Hello all,
I popped round to Ben’s @bleng earlier, turns out he is a 5 minutes walk from 2Work Towers. Ben it was a complete pleasure and cannot believe we’ve not come across each other in our local watering hole.
After being invited indoors for a brew and chat about all things A2 I got the laptop out. There were a few faults but below are what I couldn’t clear from 01 Engine:
There was obvious damage (chewed up) to the connectors of the coil packs where someone has had the connectors off in the past. There is also a thickly taped area on one of the leads (previous repair?) which could potentially be the cause of the Cylinder 3 misfire and of course the reported sluggishness.
Run the output test and everything seemed to be ok but didn’t check the travel of the rod connecting to the diaphragm, only read up on Mac’s @PlasticMac suggestion of this once bck at home.
Hopefully this gives more input for possible diagnosis as I’m not clued up on the engine side of things.
Kind regards,
Tom
I popped round to Ben’s @bleng earlier, turns out he is a 5 minutes walk from 2Work Towers. Ben it was a complete pleasure and cannot believe we’ve not come across each other in our local watering hole.
After being invited indoors for a brew and chat about all things A2 I got the laptop out. There were a few faults but below are what I couldn’t clear from 01 Engine:
Code:
Chassis Type: 8Z (8Z - Audi A2 (2000 > 2005))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 18 37 45 46 56 57 75 76 77
VIN: WAUZZZ8Z53N01XXXX
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 036 906 013 F
Component: MED7.5.11 4628
Coding: 00051
Shop #: WSC 02138
VCID: 126861725C73281F69-5160
VINID: 9D196AAAA22A1437800431840CE69588D8
WAUZZZ8Z53N01XXXX AUZ7Z0B219XXXX
4 Faults Found:
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1
P0420 - 35-00 - Efficiency Below Threshold
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0322 - 35-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000There was obvious damage (chewed up) to the connectors of the coil packs where someone has had the connectors off in the past. There is also a thickly taped area on one of the leads (previous repair?) which could potentially be the cause of the Cylinder 3 misfire and of course the reported sluggishness.
Run the output test and everything seemed to be ok but didn’t check the travel of the rod connecting to the diaphragm, only read up on Mac’s @PlasticMac suggestion of this once bck at home.
Hopefully this gives more input for possible diagnosis as I’m not clued up on the engine side of things.
Kind regards,
Tom
PlasticMac
Member
Did the car have a run, after clearing fault codes, but before last scan?
Mac.
Tom, thank you so much for dropping round yesterday to help out - I guess my 'no codes report' (earlier in the thread) was a little optimistic.
I'm hoping the scan you've shared might be a good indicator to someone on here as to what to look for next.. although I will get my son to help with the 'rod travel' test. In the mean time I will see if I can get a hold of a Hazard light relay.
I really appreciated the help with everything on the car last night, especially as I am still a little sore around the neck and back from my injury!
Thanks everyone so far.
I'm hoping the scan you've shared might be a good indicator to someone on here as to what to look for next.. although I will get my son to help with the 'rod travel' test. In the mean time I will see if I can get a hold of a Hazard light relay.
I really appreciated the help with everything on the car last night, especially as I am still a little sore around the neck and back from my injury!
Thanks everyone so far.
2work
Well Known Member
Morning Mac,
The vehicle has been used recently but not in between the first and final scan last night, only static running on the driveway.
I’m able to pop round again though once it’s been used as Ben just half a mile away.
What’s your thoughts and what else could be interrogated with VCDS to narrow down the cause.
Kind regards,
Tom
2work
Well Known Member
Morning Ben,
If you have time it might be worth reading this thread that Mac started a few years ago. Particularly Post #2. This should get to the bottom of the misfire cylinder and give you an indication if that repaired lead is working before you replace anything.
Kind regards,
Tom
PlasticMac
Member
If you clear a fault code, related to some engine conditions, they will remain clear, until the fault has occurred again, especially those associated with the EML. So, a further scan would help. Using a range of RPMs, getting above 3000 a few times, (so that the flap mechanism is active), helps too.
Mac.
2work
Well Known Member
Hello Mac,
Another scan completed with no faults on the engine so far but still has an occasion drop in RPM and lacks grunt lower in the rev range. Something is still intermittent but not constant in revealing itself with VCDS which needs further diagnosis.
It could be something as simple as weak continuity along the leads as one of them looks to have been repaired at some point.
Are you aware of any specific measuring blocks to read regards cylinders or similar. This side of VCDS is still new to me but more than happy to assist Ben if you’re able to virtually hold my hand through this.
Kind regards,
Tom
PlasticMac
Member
I reckon it's best to sort out the coil pack leads first. There are repair kits I believe, consisting of a coil pack connector with tails, so you can cut back the loom, and splice it in.
I'd check the coil packs themselves too. If they are the originals, (check date code on underside of connector housing), or not good brand, (Audi, NGK, Bosch), then despite cost, I'd replace them. My FSI was a bit hesitant pulling away, no codes, two packs were newish Bosch items, but the other two were originals, with 04 date codes).
Mac.
PlasticMac
Member
Yes, but no way check, (unless PO confesses), so, E5 V-Power from now on, for it's octane rating, and detergents.
Mac.
PlasticMac
Member
Check plugs too, may have been in there a long time ...
Mac.