Pro Boost FSI remap

dickarthurs said:
It certainly disabled my "Timmus" cruise and the immobiliser. An auto sparky managed to fix the former, making a trek to Lancaster unnecessary, but he couldn't fix the latter.

Dick Arthurs.
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It’s mentioned a number of times in this thread but I’ll say it again for any potential customers, the immobiliser is no longer functional when using the Pro Boost map. Tom has offered to re-instate people’s immobiliser if they travel to him or alternatively you can arrange with Pro Boost directly to buy the map from them by sending your ECU away to them in Germany for a couple of weeks.
 
RZX said:
Yes please if there is any left from the next batch. Let me know payment details. Thank you
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I had a message today from Pro Boost, 5 units are on their way back to me and should be here by the weekend. They did them so quickly this time that I didn’t get chance to ask them to re-instate the cruise control. 2 are already spoken for so I will put you down for the third.
 
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ibesiano said:
Hi Jaffa Jim,

Just seen your post above. My car seems to have an almost identical set of faults - see below:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 036 906 013 F
Component: MED7.5.11 G 4628
Coding: 00051
Shop #: WSC 02138
VCID: 122DCA0A5E18EB8E3D9-5072
WAUZZZ8Z13N017754 AUZ7Z0B2218475

1 Fault Found:
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
Readiness: 1110 0101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8Z0-907-379-MK60.lbl
Part No: 8Z0 907 379 C
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0101
Coding: 0019471
Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200
VCID: 4899286238C4915E13D-5000

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Part No: 8Z0 820 043 D
Component: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT 0512
VCID: 377B5B9E153AEEA66A7-254E

2 Faults Found:
00727 - Potentiometer in Positioning Motor for Defrost Flap (G135)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00600 - Potentiometer On Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (G92)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

Did you get to the bottom of it? Will the Pro Boost FSI remap help?
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Hi @ibesiano - based on driving the vehicle, the issues appear to be resolved. However, as @Ian Bigg highlights, I don't have access to my own diagnostics software. That said, when I was at @Proghound 's house for a @timmus aftermarket options session, he was able to associate the new pro-boost ECU with my car so the immobiliser function was restored and told me all the other faults were gone.

So, whilst the eternal words 'Your Mileage May Vary' do, of course apply, my recommendation would be for you to take the plunge into the Pro Boost mod for your FSI.
 
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audifan said:
Cruise activation using VCDS

VCDS Coding: 01-Engine, Login - 11, enter 11463, click Do It. Switch ignition off. Test.
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Thanks audifan, this afternoon I managed to take the FSI to my garage and Marco scanned it, found several errors (the yellow light had reappeared due to some leak in the aspiration dept, it seems but he reset it) and put the 11463 code in: the Cruise Control reappeared! Thank you all Forumers very much for your invaluable help.
Best
Stefano
 
Thanks Steve :)
No, all the flaps stay "closed" but I was told that only one was stuck (and since they are joined through the rod, they are all in the same position).
I've also thought about removing them. It has to be evaluated...
Regards,
Fabrice
 
hello all,

it is perhaps interesting to report some news about my FSI after the ProBoost installation. The dreaded yellow light appeared once again, but a scan revealed that it was not because of the flaps being detected as faulty but because the cylinders 2 and 4 are not working correctly. They are the cylinders where the compression ratio is lower, 5,4:1 and 5,7:1, so no big surprise here?. There is nothing to do bar rebuilding the engine (not economically feasible) so I carried on.
However I remembered that I had filled the last 2 times with 95RON petrol as the 98/100 is quite difficult to find here in Italy nowadays, so I decided to look for the premium fuel, I found a station offering it and filled the tank with it. Having emptied this first tank, I refilled it and, surprise! The yellow light went off. I don't know if the disappearance of the light and the 100RON petrol are related, I simply report this here to you all for your consideration.
The second interesting thing is that I have found a third key for my FSI that I had completely forgot. I tried it yesterday and the 'yellow car' sign in the dashboard (rev counter) blinked, but as the immobilizer has been deactivated, I could have driven the FSI away. I didn't as I didn't want to risk the car shutting down suddenly somewhere but it was a pleasant surprise. (Before anyone objects to this, I may add that not many A2s are stolen in Italy nowadays...)
The question is, the key is obviously working both in the door lock and as a remote control, but misses some data to stop the warning light blinking...what do I have to do? Thanks,
Stefano
 
StefanoP said:
hello all,

it is perhaps interesting to report some news about my FSI after the ProBoost installation. The dreaded yellow light appeared once again, but a scan revealed that it was not because of the flaps being detected as faulty but because the cylinders 2 and 4 are not working correctly. They are the cylinders where the compression ratio is lower, 5,4:1 and 5,7:1, so no big surprise here. There is nothing to do bar rebuilding the engine (not economically feasible) so I carried on.
However I remembered that I had filled the last 2 times with 95RON petrol as the 98/100 is quite difficult to find here in Italy nowadays, so I decided to look for the premium fuel, I found a station offering it and filled the tank with it. Having emptied this first tank, I refilled it and, surprise! The yellow light went off. I don't know if the disappearance of the light and the 100RON petrol are related, I simply report this here to you all for your consideration.
The second interesting thing is that I have found a third key for my FSI that I had completely forgot. I tried it yesterday and the 'yellow car' sign in the dashboard (rev counter) blinked, but as the immobilizer has been deactivated, I could have driven the FSI away. I didn't as I didn't want to risk the car shutting down suddenly somewhere but it was a pleasant surprise. (Before anyone objects to this, I may add that not many A2s are stolen in Italy nowadays...)
The question is, the key is obviously working both in the door lock and as a remote control, but misses some data to stop the warning light blinking...what do I have to do? Thanks,
Stefano
Click to expand...
Stefano, the variance in compression ratio is interesting, especially on an FSI. If a previous owner has used easy start spray to get the engine going this would account for the variance. If used too liberally, the uncontrolled explosion from this fluid can shorten the con rods. This would only be evident if the head is removed and piston heights measured from the block face.
I believe the FSI engine was always intended to be run on 98+RON fuel.
If you find this difficult to get then try using an additive with 95RON fuel to raise the octane number.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
StefanoP said:
....
The question is, the key is obviously working both in the door lock and as a remote control, but misses some data to stop the warning light blinking...what do I have to do? Thanks,
Stefano
Click to expand...
The way I see it the problem lies with the immobiliser chip located in the top half of the key. I can see several scenarios, chip faulty/absent/non matching code/uncoded. Did the key ever work? The fix is to buy an uncoded(virgin) chip for a few euros and use VCDS to code. Steve Birchall posted a lot on keys, look at 'How To' section, this is one, but you will need the login code for your instrument cluster.

This is a long way from Pro Boost so I think best not to continue here and swerve Steve's Pro Boost thread.

Andy

PS. I assume you have seen the workhop manual for FSI compression values.
image.jpeg
 
Hello Andrew,

I mentioned the key behavior in this thread because the absence of the immobilizer allows to drive the car away even with an non-encoded key. It doesn't trouble me, but it was interesting to experience it. Thanks for the table regarding the compression values, 2 cylinders of my FSI fall behind the 7.0 wear limit (I assume it means 7.0:1) so this engine would effectively need a rebore.

As Jellybean suggest, I wouldn't be surprised to know that the previous owner of my FSI did all type of wrong things to start the car and this would have accelerated the wear on the bores. I'm in the market for a good S/H FSI engine but in Italy they are few and far brtween and anyway how can you check the condition of an engine removed from a car in a junkyard??

Thanks and have a good day,

Stefano
 
StefanoP said:
Hello Andrew,

I mentioned the key behavior in this thread because the absence of the immobilizer allows to drive the car away even with an non-encoded key. It doesn't trouble me, but it was interesting to experience it. Thanks for the table regarding the compression values, 2 cylinders of my FSI fall behind the 7.0 wear limit (I assume it means 7.0:1) so this engine would effectively need a rebore.

As Jellybean suggest, I wouldn't be surprised to know that the previous owner of my FSI did all type of wrong things to start the car and this would have accelerated the wear on the bores. I'm in the market for a good S/H FSI engine but in Italy they are few and far brtween and anyway how can you check the condition of an engine removed from a car in a junkyard??

Thanks and have a good day,

Stefano
Click to expand...
Bounjiorno

No worries i had no problem with your post, just meaning a continued dialogue about fixing your third key, and I forgot even if fixed I understand it still needs Tom(Timmus) on site to get the immobiliser system to function again.

On poor compression do not overlook other possible reasons beyond bore wear but with two poor values it is ominous. I just thought the table values are simply bar values and no need for a ratio. Agree buying an engine from a scrapyard is a lottery, something I would not like to do.

Enjoyed my visits to Italy except the monster wasp that painfully stung my foot, (it was the height of summer), my foot swelled to double in size.

Ciao.

Andy
 
2 units left in stock before everything gets a bit messy with Brexit and the cost most probably will go up.
 
I have had mine fiited for just over 2 weeks, done 250 miles of mixed driving, the car has always been nice to drive but now it's even better, smoother and slightly more responsive and so far no eml back on. Very happy and I certainly would consider buying another FSI due to Pro Boost.
 
Having been driving one of my Fsi's with proboost & Tesco Premium fuel, I think the combination of the 2 is an absolute must for all Fsi owners.

No more EML light, No more hesitation & the car thinks its a Rocket;)

Proboost ECU & Fsi a marriage made in heaven :)
 
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