Pro Boost FSI remap

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
********Update*********

I've had a response from Pro Boost this morning in answer to the questions raised so far,

In response to the question on Dyno graphs of both:

"I never put an A2 with stage 1 on the dyno. Only Stock vs. Stage 2 comparison of those few cars that received the stage2 in the beginning.

It simply doesn't make sense to do so, since there wont be a difference of more than 3-4 hp. But as you know, gaining power was not the target with this software."

In regards to MOT emisisons:

"The limits for the A2 in UK are:
0,5%vol CO @ Normal Idle Speed
0,3%vol CO @ Fast Idle Speed
vs. Germany:
0,3%vol CO @ Normal Idle Speed
0,2%vol CO @ Fast Idle Speed
Lambda has to be in the range between 0.97 to 1.03 in both countries.

The Fast idle Speed is in both countries between 3800 and 4500 for the A2 - at this engine speed the car uses homogeneous mode, even stock.

So i would guess: If the german guys get the TÜV approval...the UK will do so.

But to make sure i'm open for a test: how much does MOT-testing of the exhaust emissions cost in the UK?
We will pay for a test with the stock car before and a test with the tune afterwards 🙂"

My personal opinion is that this assurance on emissions standards is sufficient, without the need to pursue it further with an MOT test before and after. If the TUV standards are more stringent than our own and the map has passed TUV then its simply not required.


And confirmation on the thermostat:

"The thermostat used in the A2 is electronic controlled, so the temperature can be changed through software."
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
I will be sending 3 ECU's to pro Boost tomorrow, and they will also be providing 2 from their own stock, so hopefully in the next 10 days or so I will have a stock of 4 units available plus my own for testing.

@Clackers has also offered me 3 standard ECU's at a reasonable price, so if you don't want to send back your stock unit to me then I may be able to offer a penalty for this and take one from the ones I get from Clackers.
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
Realise it would be more work for someone, and extra postage costs for participants but would it be feasible to source a spare ecu and have the immobiliser function removed. That could become a 'loan' unit to keep the car on the road while the original is away being mapped.
Cost could be shared by everyone preferring to retain the immobiliser feature - and may even be a cheaper option than declaring the 'anti theft delete' to the insurance company

Cheers Spike
There is the option for this, going forward, I could get a stock ECU with the immobiliser removed by Pro Boost and send it to you while yours is away being mapped in Germany. There will obviously be an increased cost on this, because you will be paying £255 plus the additional cost of your ECU to and from Germany plus the loan ECU to and from me.
 

StefanoP

Member
Hello all

and a big 'thank you' to Steve for looking for ways to improve our beloved (and often misunderstood) FSIs. I have read with great interest the Forum messages about the FSI system and the switching off of the stratified mode with the ProBoost software. I would like to try it, I'm not greatly disturbed by the lack of immobilizer but my question is: do we know if this will a) improve, b) worsen, c) leave unchanged the overall performance of the 1.6 FSI engine, i.e. horsepower, torque, speed etc? This is quite important as my two A2 1.4 petrol are both sweet, reliable, no trouble at all but not very fast; I bought the 1.6 first because it's faster and then because I'm intrigued by the sophistication of this system. Disabling it would be somehow disappointing, if this has to be done to improve reliability but without any appreciable advantage in terms of performance..

Best

Stefano
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
Hi Stefano

It certainly won't decrease the performance. This isn't being marketed as a performance modification, its aim is to improve the reliability and driveability of the FSI, but......there is likely to be a slight improvement in performance.
 

Edwrai

Member
I will be sending 3 ECU's to pro Boost tomorrow, and they will also be providing 2 from their own stock, so hopefully in the next 10 days or so I will have a stock of 4 units available plus my own for testing.

@Clackers has also offered me 3 standard ECU's at a reasonable price, so if you don't want to send back your stock unit to me then I may be able to offer a penalty for this and take one from the ones I get from Clackers.
Steve I have a spare FSI ECU if you want it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

PlasticMac

Member
Hello all

and a big 'thank you' to Steve for looking for ways to improve our beloved (and often misunderstood) FSIs. I have read with great interest the Forum messages about the FSI system and the switching off of the stratified mode with the ProBoost software. I would like to try it, I'm not greatly disturbed by the lack of immobilizer but my question is: do we know if this will a) improve, b) worsen, c) leave unchanged the overall performance of the 1.6 FSI engine, i.e. horsepower, torque, speed etc? This is quite important as my two A2 1.4 petrol are both sweet, reliable, no trouble at all but not very fast; I bought the 1.6 first because it's faster and then because I'm intrigued by the sophistication of this system. Disabling it would be somehow disappointing, if this has to be done to improve reliability but without any appreciable advantage in terms of performance..

Best

Stefano
Stefano, as another FSI owner, your sentiments:
"... the 1.6 first because it's faster and then because I'm intrigued by the sophistication of this system. Disabling it would be somehow disappointing..."
echo mine exactly.
I hope I can keep it running, as intended, as an FSI. However, if finances are tight, and the A2 has to earn it's keep, the Pro Boost remap is, in my opinion, the way to go.
If course, it'll be a little different from a healthy FSI, but, it'll be on the road, and being driven. That got to be a good thing.
Well done @A2Steve.

Mac.
 

Jeetesh

Member
I’m intrigued and something I’ll seriously consider, the one thing I’d like to know and @A2Steve has already answered in part is what the before and after looks like on a dyno. I appreciated it’s not about more power hence not being tested however this is something I’d really like to see as I’d want to compare power and torque throughout the rev range before taking the plunge.

Does anyone know anyone who could dyno a car before and after for cheap (or free) as I like the way it drives now and doesn’t want to impact this. Has this been done by anyone on the German site (my German is rubbish so haven’t tried searching). Failing that, if there is a member who gets it done, could I sit in a modified car as a passenger (or even drive, should they be agreeable) to see if there are any perceivable differences?

Question - if you have a higher mileage example (say over 80k miles) I’m assuming there will already be carbon build up, is it worth getting cleaned (walnut blasting) before getting done to ensure the car is as optimum as can be prior to this change?
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
There is a large thread about it on the German site. I've read what I could using Google translate, but I don't think there was a dyno graph on there.

I'll be fitting it to my own car as soon as the first batch arrives back from Germany and sending out the current first customers who have already reserved one. This should then give us all a good indication of how the car feels by comparison.

Any car with a completely clear inlet manifold is going to perform a little better than one that contains build-up, but we are not talking build-up here to the point that a TDI experiences. Even ones I've had where the flaps have stuck have been reasonably clear just a bit gungy. As long as the flaps are capable of going to the open position once (their default position spring loaded) then the remap will work. I don't see that there will be any real benefit of cleaning the flaps beforehand (we are trying to save that work).
 

PlasticMac

Member
I’m intrigued and something I’ll seriously consider, the one thing I’d like to know and @A2Steve has already answered in part is what the before and after looks like on a dyno. I appreciated it’s not about more power hence not being tested however this is something I’d really like to see as I’d want to compare power and torque throughout the rev range before taking the plunge.

Does anyone know anyone who could dyno a car before and after for cheap (or free) as I like the way it drives now and doesn’t want to impact this. Has this been done by anyone on the German site (my German is rubbish so haven’t tried searching). Failing that, if there is a member who gets it done, could I sit in a modified car as a passenger (or even drive, should they be agreeable) to see if there are any perceivable differences?

Question - if you have a higher mileage example (say over 80k miles) I’m assuming there will already be carbon build up, is it worth getting cleaned (walnut blasting) before getting done to ensure the car is as optimum as can be prior to this change?
I reckon that if you refurb the manifold, so it's nice and clean, the flaps will move freely, making actuator/linkage failure unlikely. Once you've done that, why would you want to go for a remap? The only, theoretical gain, over a healthy FSI is lowered running temperature. Any other changes will balance out as neutral I'd guess.
If you have sticky flaps, then the remap saves money, compared to having the manifold refurb done professionally.
But, If it ain't broke (runs OK, no EML) and all that...
Mac.
 

Jeetesh

Member
I reckon that if you refurb the manifold, so it's nice and clean, the flaps will move freely, making actuator/linkage failure unlikely. Once you've done that, why would you want to go for a remap? The only, theoretical gain, over a healthy FSI is lowered running temperature. Any other changes will balance out as neutral I'd guess.
If you have sticky flaps, then the remap saves money, compared to having the manifold refurb done professionally.
But, If it ain't broke (runs OK, no EML) and all that...
Mac.
I did have thoughts along those lines however as mine only done 27k miles and is currently in good health (I might be jinxing myself here), all being well I would like to get beyond 60-70k miles before any of these sorts of things start happening.

In my mind then for me is that there would be be reduced carbon build up in addition to lower running temperature.

Correct me if I’m wrong but is the carbon build up the starting issue which then speeds up the onset of the other potential FSI problems or are they mostly isolated issues?
 

PlasticMac

Member
I did have thoughts along those lines however as mine only done 27k miles and is currently in good health (I might be jinxing myself here), all being well I would like to get beyond 60-70k miles before any of these sorts of things start happening.

In my mind then for me is that there would be be reduced carbon build up in addition to lower running temperature.

Correct me if I’m wrong but is the carbon build up the starting issue which then speeds up the onset of the other potential FSI problems or are they mostly isolated issues?
 

PlasticMac

Member
It is most likely (virtually certain in my mind) that the build up of "crap" in the inlet manifold, (which causes the flaps to bind, which in turn breaks the linkage and possibly the actuator) comes from the EGR circuit. Using 99 octane, Shell V Power (other brands are available), ensuring fuel burn is as complete as possible by keeping the spark plugs in good nick, making sure engine runs at correct temperature, and using only high quality oil, changed annually is my plan to minimise EGR "crap"
At 50,000 mls, I'm optimistic that my Fizzy will be good for a while yet.

Mac.
 

Jeetesh

Member
It is most likely (virtually certain in my mind) that the build up of "crap" in the inlet manifold, (which causes the flaps to bind, which in turn breaks the linkage and possibly the actuator) comes from the EGR circuit. Using 99 octane, Shell V Power (other brands are available), ensuring fuel burn is as complete as possible by keeping the spark plugs in good nick, making sure engine runs at correct temperature, and using only high quality oil, changed annually is my plan to minimise EGR "crap"
At 50,000 mls, I'm optimistic that my Fizzy will be good for a while yet.

Mac.
I’ve spent a lot of time reading around FSI’s and possibly confused myself in the process. I did start a thread on carbon build up and if my endoscope ever arrives I want to monitor any buildup periodically. If it gets bad then walnut blast before the onset of any issues. Colour dis is useful as I can monitor oil and coolant temperature along with other measures to ensure everything is within parameters. I’m keen on trying to prevent any issues before they arise.

I’m assuming at 50k miles everything has been in good working order?
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
There is the option for this, going forward, I could get a stock ECU with the immobiliser removed by Pro Boost and send it to you while yours is away being mapped in Germany. There will obviously be an increased cost on this, because you will be paying £255 plus the additional cost of your ECU to and from Germany plus the loan ECU to and from me.
that is exactly the service is had running for the TDI remaps, it worked very well

Paul
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
That's the very reason I suggested a similar scheme to yours could be rolled out for the FSI

Cheers Spike
I sent my first batch of ECU’s off today and even with a business account it cost £13.67.

If you wanted to send direct to Pro Boost then it would be 2 x £14.50 plus 2 x £3.45, on top of the £255.

I’m happy with either way. If someone wishes to do this then please let me know and I’m sure it can be arranged.
 

PlasticMac

Member
I’ve spent a lot of time reading around FSI’s and possibly confused myself in the process. I did start a thread on carbon build up and if my endoscope ever arrives I want to monitor any buildup periodically. If it gets bad then walnut blast before the onset of any issues. Colour dis is useful as I can monitor oil and coolant temperature along with other measures to ensure everything is within parameters. I’m keen on trying to prevent any issues before they arise.

I’m assuming at 50k miles everything has been in good working order?
Hi @Jeetesh, at the risk of tempting fate, yes, everything is fine. While there's no doubt the FSI is complex compared to the 3 & 4 cylinder TDi, it's also a lively and rewarding drive. Prevention, as in my previous post, will give you a good chance of continued fun. But, a 15 year old car, even an A2 (and regardless of engine type) , is going to need a fix now and again. So, take time to understand the FSI, and get a laptop and registered copy of VCDS Lite.
It's good to know though, that if all else fails, @A2Steve has given us a way forward.

Mac.
 
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