BoxyA2
Well-Known Member
That would normally work Steve but the key for the ignition is a non oem key and just a standard key from the high street. As at some point the ignition barrel has been replaced.
Problems with my first A2
- Thread starter Bluesplit
- Start date
That would normally work Steve but the key for the ignition is a non oem key and just a standard key from the high street. As at some point the ignition barrel has been replaced.
Think my key issue will be sorted shortly as BoxyA2 has this resolved for me. I’m hoping swapping the brake discs out will sort the major problem with the juddering steering wheel & brake pedal. Sciroccorrado has a few parts I will be picking up for the grill & climate control.
Would like to thank everyone who has commented and helped out. Like I said this is my first A2 and my first car that hasn’t been a VW, I always found the VW forums a wealth of knowledge & im very pleased to say the Audi forums seem to be the same. No doubt I shall have plenty more questions as I delve deeper into bringing this car upto scratch.
Thanks again
Would like to thank everyone who has commented and helped out. Like I said this is my first A2 and my first car that hasn’t been a VW, I always found the VW forums a wealth of knowledge & im very pleased to say the Audi forums seem to be the same. No doubt I shall have plenty more questions as I delve deeper into bringing this car upto scratch.
Thanks again
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Sorry, Just spotted the keys.
You can get a new blade for the proper key (it can be done from a photograph (so be careful showing the blades in a picture like that, I would advise you to remove those photos just in case (remember that non members can view the posts too).
As mentioned even if you get the blade swapped you would probably need to change the immobiliser chip (not necessarily, it might be the right one in the key already if the igniotion barrel has just been replaced.
Steve B
Andy I have posted a very poor quality picture of the climate control that is fitted, this is a pic I was sent. I will make sure it is a concert II before I buy it, I think it’s coming from an A2 breakers in Stoke so they should have the correct part, think this is coming out of an X reg A2?!
Attachments
BoxyA2
Well-Known Member
That’s a good point re: getting the new blade cut from the none OEM key and installing it on the working fob.. @Bluesplit this is a much better option for you and indeed easier I’m sure if you pm @Birchall he will point you in the right direction to get this done.
Ian
Thank you very much for the heads up, I had no idea it’s that easy to copy a key!
Steve thank you that’s great, I will PM you now
BiggDogg
A2OC Donor
Also make sure the wheels don’t have buckled inner rims by jacking up and spinning them then watch from underneath. I went through 3 sets of front discs before I realised that my 17” alloy rims had a couple of flat spots on the inner edges that were confusing the ABS and causing the disc to wear asymmetrically, meaning a thickness variation and NOT a warped disc. Note that having the wheels balanced won’t fix this, the alloys have to be professionally straightened, in addition to new discs and maybe tyres too if they have a corresponding high spot after correcting the rim. All the best.
Matt
Hi Mart,
Apologies for suggesting a picture of the the keys I never considered the security aspect, but I sure we would not have got anywhere without them. Just edit the post and remove them.
I was just about to suggest the 'final' solution but I type slow!
To sum up, just to be clear in my mind
Remove the blade and immobiliser chip from the door fob key. In theory if these can be replaced by the blade and immobiliser chip from the ignition key we will have one functioning key fob. This is unlikely as the blade of the non oem ignition key will not be compatible and a compatible copy (from a image) will need to be cut. In the event the immoliser chip is also incompatible a new virgin immobiliser chip will have to be coded to the ECU.
Think I've got it, but don't forget in this solution the 'new' key will not manually unlock the door in emergency.and the original door blade key will have to be carried on the key ring.
Sorry again about the security aspect.
Andy
Apologies for suggesting a picture of the the keys I never considered the security aspect, but I sure we would not have got anywhere without them. Just edit the post and remove them.
I was just about to suggest the 'final' solution but I type slow!
To sum up, just to be clear in my mind
Remove the blade and immobiliser chip from the door fob key. In theory if these can be replaced by the blade and immobiliser chip from the ignition key we will have one functioning key fob. This is unlikely as the blade of the non oem ignition key will not be compatible and a compatible copy (from a image) will need to be cut. In the event the immoliser chip is also incompatible a new virgin immobiliser chip will have to be coded to the ECU.
Think I've got it, but don't forget in this solution the 'new' key will not manually unlock the door in emergency.and the original door blade key will have to be carried on the key ring.
Sorry again about the security aspect.
Andy
No worries Andy,
Oh god yeah I hadn’t thought about opening and closing in the event the transponder doesn’t work!
Sorry I missed this post yesterday.
Hope it's not too late but I don't think an X reg head unit will work in your 2002 A2 due to a change in the electronic infra structure (Canbus) of your A2. Need an expert. A2Steve advertised a very good value mint Concert II today.
Do you realise you have a very rare and expensive climate control with the heated seat switches! If you had an ordinary climate I was going to suggest source a hard touch climate but with your heated seat switches that is next to impossible. Best course of action is to replace the buttons with hard touch buttons. Jeremy will probably be able to sort you out if you visit Bromley Towers (£30+ish). Steve Birchall authored a helpful 'How To' here
https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...n-buttons-without-dismantling-the-dash.24496/
Andy
ajsellors
A2OC Donor
Hi,
tips to identify the type of head unit (for single DIN).
Generation 1
Visual: Single central rotary knob.
Electrical: Switched ignition and lighting feed on the 8 pin black connector.
Generation 2
Visual: Two rotary knobs, one on each side.
Electrical: No switched ignition or lighting feed. Connection to Infotainment CAN bus.
The change over was in model year 2002 so if there is any doubt because a non-standard or aftermarket head unit has been fitted, a quick check on the number of wires in the black connector will confirm which unit is compatible.
The "wrong" generation of head unit can be made to work, but will require wiring changes and a CAN bus emulator depending on which way round. It won't be "plug and play".
When looking for second hand units, mk1 TT and A6 (C5 platform) cars (from the similar time as the A2) share the same head unit slot size so can be fitted into the A2. As you have found A4 and also A3 head units won't fit as the front it too large.
regards
Andrew
Thank you Andy, I missed this post when you replied, I was just re reading through and saw your reply. Thanks
More importantly did you buy the head unit? - Andy
No I didn’t, the chap who is was buying it off has supposed to of sent me pictures for the last 3 days but keeps forgetting
Unfortunately Steve has now sold that head unit he had but I’ve put an ad in the wanted section, the A4 head unit does work but is too wide for the gap and want a proper A2 stereo
