Project Cone

First thing to do is replace the remotes battery with a FRESH CR2032 not one that has been sitting around for ages. If you test it with a meter and it reads 3v it is flat. Part of my annual servicing is to replace the remote batteries in all keys. While replacing the battery make sure there is enough spring pressure to make good contact against the battery.
 
First thing to do is replace the remotes battery with a FRESH CR2032 not one that has been sitting around for ages. If you test it with a meter and it reads 3v it is flat. Part of my annual servicing is to replace the remote batteries in all keys. While replacing the battery make sure there is enough spring pressure to make good contact against the battery.

Yup. Done that now twice with two fresh ones out of the wrapper and same issue within a couple of hours.


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So have you checked the voltage of the battery when you inserted it and also after it has lost sync. I have had two remotes that were continually internally pressing on a button - can't remember which button but in both cases they would kill the batteries and lose sync with the car. I know it is a rolling code that is used so by the remote continually sending and the car not receiving or ignoring the signal the end point is reached quickly.

Another thing to try before condemning the CCCU is to remove it from the car and carefully check the wiring plugs / sockets for any damage, water or corrosion. Do you have a spare CCCU to swap and try? When you lock the car is the door led flashing correctly? Have you tried to pair a different remote to your car?
 
Little update on the remote key issue.

I had a spare key so coded it for the car. Since then I’ve left the car for a few days and the original fob has again died. However!! The secondary (new) fob is still working. So I’m putting this down to a faulty fob. Thanks all for the support. Onto the next issue!


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Interior air filter defo wasn’t dirty

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I have a new issue although it has been a busy week. First the good points.

Oil service complete
New front discs and pads
New brake cylinders
N75 hoses renewed
Fuel filter replaced
Brake fluid replaced
2 new drop links installed
Misty headlight replaced
Broken foglamp replaced
New sun visor installed

Now onto the not so good.

On scanning the car only Engine, Brakes and HVAC are shown, nothing else. Also the engine management light is not functioning and this could be related. Not sure if this is a can-bus issue or deliberate meddling to stop the light coming on by a previous owner. Does anyone have any experience of this?

Cheers.

MrB

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On scanning the car only Engine, Brakes and HVAC are shown, nothing else. Also the engine management light is not functioning and this could be related. Not sure if this is a can-bus issue or deliberate meddling to stop the light coming on by a previous owner. Does anyone have any experience of this?

Cheers.

MrB

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It's far more simple than that James. It's a Y plate isn't it? The early TDI's didn't have an engine management light, they used the glowplug light. It flashes if there's an error.
 
Do not know about the ANY but the AMF never had an EML warning. Both the BHC and ATL do have EML.

Not some bodgery, by design the glow plug warning lamp was used to indicate faults. The later engines required the EML due to the emission standard I believe.
 
It's far more simple than that James. It's a Y plate isn't it? The early TDI's didn't have an engine management light, they used the glowplug light. It flashes if there's an error.
Sorry mate, as per our chat it's a 52 so no such luck I'm afraid, must be something else (repeating here for clarity on the thread)
 
Do not know about the ANY but the AMF never had an EML warning. Both the BHC and ATL do have EML.

Not some bodgery, by design the glow plug warning lamp was used to indicate faults. The later engines required the EML due to the emission standard I believe.
Thanks for your and Steve's comments, I have confirmed that the engine is an AMF so there is no EML light if I've followed the comments so far.
 
That is correct no EML light on an AMF 1.4 tdi. BHC engines replaced the AMF around August / September 2003 and the ATL introduced September / October 2003 and were gone early 2005.
 
This helps a lot, thanks both. Now just need to figure out why I get a part VCDS scan. Has anyone seen that before?
 
When you say a part VCDS scan does it come back with an error, just stop or the program hang? What version VCDS and cable? PC or Mac?

Does a module by module scan work? Is the battery voltage at least 12.5V? Have you tried an autoscan with the engine running?
 
I’m running windows and it’s the latest version of VCDS full version.

It doesn’t hang it just finds those three modules.

The battery voltage seems fine but will check again. Not tried individual modules as it normally does a full scan without issue.

Will report back when Ive tested.


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Quick update on progress

New front section of exhaust, cat and flexi been fitted resolving the blown exhaust issue (hole on the bend not flexi.

N75 issue was in fact blown intercooler which has also now been replaced.

Once all this is buttoned up I can get on with the first clean!


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Does anyone know what this seat trim is called. Looking for a driver seat in great condition if anyone has one going spare.

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