Project Dolphin

Great advice, thanks. Only issue is that I can’t quite see where the drain holes are in the front or back. Does anyone have any photos that can indicate exactly where they are?
 
Great advice, thanks. Only issue is that I can’t quite see where the drain holes are in the front or back. Does anyone have any photos that can indicate exactly where they are?
There are lots of photos in the German club document linked above in post#19. - Andy
 
So this evening the coolant warning sign began wailing as soon as I began heading home from work. I had cleaned and dried all of the related pipework the other day so after checking the expansion tank and lid I then caught a glimpse of some moisture and drips around what I believe is the temperature sensor bolted to the side of the engine. Quite relieved to finally spot the source of the problem, it looks a little awkward to get to but I’m hoping the replacement part is relatively easy to source and fit.
 
The temperature sensor is a little fiddly but there are many posts on here about replacing. My TDi75 also started losing coolant and a shoogly seal here was the cause. It only leaked when under a bit of pressure but eventually the amount of pink liquid was a clear indicator of the cause.

The part is very cheap but I think you want to make sure of the colour and number of pins on your part -green or blue, 2 or 3 - before you buy.

I would also recommend a spare retention clip or two. They are plastic and super fiddly and you’ll likely either drop one (I put some thread on it) or snap a leg off (I thought I was so smart).

It is a pain getting the clip to reseat and there are stories on here of some replacements being a little too fat and not being able to seat. I ended up using the original clip.

If you are quick you don’t lose much coolant.

Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Project Dolphin, the gift that keeps on giving........grief. See if you can spot the issue which appeared this morning;
 

Attachments

  • C05FF5BF-F762-4DD0-A241-BD81DA939F94.jpeg
    C05FF5BF-F762-4DD0-A241-BD81DA939F94.jpeg
    462 KB · Views: 270
I thought the piston and bellows kooked extended but a bit dark in there in the picture to see clearly. Metal on metal braking makes me cringe.

Andy
 
Must have bypassed the brake wear sensor, so is mine, just fitted
genuine pads and bosch discs from ebay for under £40
 
A bit of time this weekend gave me the chance to change the brakes and pads, and have another look at the coolant leak issue.

Brakes first, as the car couldn’t be driven anywhere with them being sorted. The reason for the lack of brake wear indication then became apparent, as the connections were non-existent. Something terrible had clearly happened to the connectors and the block had simply been taped up.

In the ensuing fight to get the callipers and discs off, two torx drives were decapitated but eventually the car gave in and let me complete the job.

Next up was the coolant leak as described previously. The hose clips came off reasonably easily and the one visible bolt securing the pipe junction was fairly compliant, but try as I might I couldn’t see what else was securing it.

By this point I was considering doing my best Basil Fawlty impression on the Dolphin but instead sat and and a cup of coffee whilst cursing my decision to buy the car in the first place. I’ll never buy a car unseen again!

I then decided to give up trying to remove the pipe junction and instead replaced the standard pipe clips with jubilee clips, and was pleased to see that this did seem to work. The joy was short lived when I saw drips appearing around the temperature sensor, but again when I had a play with the securing clip and re-seated the sensor, the dripping ceased.

Pleased but slightly bemused, I topped up the coolant and ran it for a period, and touch wood there were no more leaks.

Next job is the small matter of an MOT, I’m feeling a little more confident than I was at the start of the weekend, let’s see what luck the coming week brings.
 
Just to clarify the OSS drains (I know I’m a bit late). There are no drain tubes the drains are each side of the windscreen at the front, these can be cleared by running a plastic trim removing tool down each side between the windscreen seal and the A pillar paintwork. The rear has drains either side of the rear most glass panel, again between the glass seal and the bodywork, the best way to clear these is with a thin rod (old dipstick as suggested, or a long cable tie). You won’t break anything as you will only be pushing between the OSS metal frame and the frame of the roof, there is nothing that can break, so give it a good old push. However, you really need the OSS in the open position to properly clear this one.
The OSS will not leak if these channels are clear, however, a sagging roof lining can also be caused by condensation from within the car due to the rear vents leaking into the boot.
Give us a shout if you need any help with the OSS.

Ian
 
Thanks so much, that’s a real help. Could you give me an idea of what the trim tool is that you have used?

I’ve used a couple of the suggested tools with varying degrees of success, including a bicycle brake cable which worked pretty well. The only place I couldn’t get it to run through is ironically the spot where I suspect the water is getting in, just at the lower point on the passenger side of the windscreen close to the scuttle. I suspect it may indeed be the result of a windscreen change. Any suggestions?

Just to clarify the OSS drains (I know I’m a bit late). There are no drain tubes the drains are each side of the windscreen at the front, these can be cleared by running a plastic trim removing tool down each side between the windscreen seal and the A pillar paintwork. The rear has drains either side of the rear most glass panel, again between the glass seal and the bodywork, the best way to clear these is with a thin rod (old dipstick as suggested, or a long cable tie). You won’t break anything as you will only be pushing between the OSS metal frame and the frame of the roof, there is nothing that can break, so give it a good old push. However, you really need the OSS in the open position to properly clear this one.
The OSS will not leak if these channels are clear, however, a sagging roof lining can also be caused by condensation from within the car due to the rear vents leaking into the boot.
Give us a shout if you need any help with the OSS.

Ian
 
Just to clarify the OSS drains (I know I’m a bit late). There are no drain tubes the drains are each side of the windscreen at the front, these can be cleared by running a plastic trim removing tool down each side between the windscreen seal and the A pillar paintwork. The rear has drains either side of the rear most glass panel, again between the glass seal and the bodywork, the best way to clear these is with a thin rod (old dipstick as suggested, or a long cable tie). You won’t break anything as you will only be pushing between the OSS metal frame and the frame of the roof, there is nothing that can break, so give it a good old push. However, you really need the OSS in the open position to properly clear this one.
The OSS will not leak if these channels are clear, however, a sagging roof lining can also be caused by condensation from within the car due to the rear vents leaking into the boot.
Give us a shout if you need any help with the OSS.

Ian
Hi as another with oss is it possible you could photograph said areas that need to be cleared so we may see exactly where? Mine is 100% waterproof but I would like to know exactly we’re they are for future reference..big thanks in advance ..Paul
 
A trip to the scrap yard today has produced some useful parts which will help to cheer up the Dolphin. A very pretty and seemingly otherwise pristine FSI gave up some useful parts, including a clean wiper arm, door check strap, engine under tray and a natty set of carpet mats with blue edging which were clearly designed to match the blue highlights of the FSI they came from. Sadly the driver’s side mat was missing, but the others have cleaned up quite well.

I’ve also sourced a replacement set of alloys with matching tyres to improve the look and drive of the car. The tyres which came with the car were horrific and in such a poor condition to the point of almost being dangerous. The difference in driving is incredible, and the car Is so much smoother.

Sadly the coolant loss continues, although it’s not clear where the leak is. I thought I’d sorted it by adjusting and re-seating the pipe clamps and sensor, but I suspect it’s still weeping out as the area is ever so slightly damp. More close examination required!

MOT is booked for next week, if it passes I’ll see about a re-map and then try to source some bolts for the under tray. I don’t suppose anyone has any, by any chance?
 

Attachments

  • 870B9807-58CC-4638-AA98-DB3CEBE3C2D5.jpeg
    870B9807-58CC-4638-AA98-DB3CEBE3C2D5.jpeg
    221.1 KB · Views: 204
  • 11D74EA2-4A85-4DE0-9762-2CEE1BC4CD9E.jpeg
    11D74EA2-4A85-4DE0-9762-2CEE1BC4CD9E.jpeg
    482.2 KB · Views: 218
Project Dolphin has an MOT! It failed on the first occasion, but after a little tweaking and fettling around the rea brakes and joint boots here and there, it passed second time round without breaking the bank. My mechanic also reckons he's sorted the coolant leak now too, so a huge weight is now off my mind.

I've now sourced and re-fitted a set of front fog lamps, and I'll be heading back to the same scrap yard to source an offside front wheel arch liner which is missing a large section. I'll also be sending the ECU off for a little fettle too, can't wait to enjoy the results!

I'll also be putting the Silverpig in for it's MOT at the end of the month, and if it passes then I'll be offering it up as a bargain price runaround for someone.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top