Yes the cup holder needs to be removed if the bottom seat swob is to be folded or removed
Hence why Audi made it a clip in out unit

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You can fold the backs of the seats down with the rear cupholder unit in place, but you have to take it out in order to pivot the seat bases vertical and access the whole rear floor. I'm not sure if you can actually remove the rear seats with the cupholder in place, even though you don't have get them as far as vertical for that. For safety I always remove my cupholder first because it's so easy, you just press the button on the top of the unit to release it from its brackets.

With a cupholder, a false floor and the space-saver spare screwed down underneath it, I find I transport a lot of bulky items just with the rear seats folded down and with a plastic sheet to protect them. It's not often you need that extra few inches depth you get by taking it all out.
 
Another busy afternoon here, had the wheel off to see if I could repair the broken wire for the brake pad ware sensor. No such luck as one of the wires just crumbled when trying to solder. A job for another day!

Rather frustrated I wandered what else I could do whilst the front passengers side wheel was off.

I though I’d start the headlamp washer retrofit, bumper is still Ebony Black but I went for fitting the larger washer bottle. I’ll get the bumper painted when able to do so.

This little thing was removed:
F603655E-1927-4DB6-A621-733F6BC16380.jpeg

And his big brother was fitted:
A4F1CD75-2050-4EFE-80CF-A86FECDB22D7.jpeg

This is an upgrade I’ve been wanting to do for a while. It’ll need further work to connect up the additional washer pump to the wiper relay in the passengers footwell compartment.

Should be a straight forward bumper off, headlamp washer bumper on once it’s painted.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Yep the washer jet bumper reservoir is a monster.

I’ve got a complete ABS/Brake pad loom here if you are in need.
 
Whilst I was outside with the tools I thought I’d remove the instrument cluster as it needed the Gala cable soldering in for the RNS-E. job done, very satisfied apart from I don’t have the navigation display on the DIS. Probably a coding thing that @timmus will quickly solve when he can get here.

Whilst I had the instrument cluster off I thought I’d investigate the problem of not able to set the time and date. The time/date adjust needle just pulls out. It was like that when I purchased it from @Jellybean and I know he started a thread about it last year.

My findings were that the needle along with rubber plungers had come apart and just needed to be out back together correctly. I used a known good cluster (breaker) to see how it is supposed to go back together. In under 10 minutes it was back together and fitted for the moment of truth:
AA54A805-2226-439D-A600-440D196604C7.jpeg

Result. I no longer have to wait until midnight to set the time and live back in the Naughties.

Very happy as seeing the incorrect time on both the DIS and RNS-E has bugged me since the first weekend of ownership.

Stay safe everyone!

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Yep the washer jet bumper reservoir is a monster.

I’ve got a complete ABS/Brake pad loom here if you are in need.

Thanks Steve,

The dead A2 should be able to supply me one but if I have a complete disaster during removal/re-installation I’ll certainly be in touch. What’s the cost of said loom delivered to Coalville Sir?

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Thanks Steve,

The dead A2 should be able to supply me one but if I have a complete disaster during removal/re-installation I’ll certainly be in touch. What’s the cost of said loom delivered to Coalville Sir?

Kind regards,

Tom

The loom is all complete and runs into where it’s been cut inside the engine bay, but the outer coating in one section close to the top (and about 3mm in length) has worn away a bit on a tyre. It will need wrapping in a small bit of insulation tape at that point only. It would be £10 plus £3.62 postage due to this. Rather than the normal £15 plus postage
 
Another busy afternoon here, had the wheel off to see if I could repair the broken wire for the brake pad ware sensor. No such luck as one of the wires just crumbled when trying to solder. A job for another day!

Rather frustrated I wandered what else I could do whilst the front passengers side wheel was off.

I though I’d start the headlamp washer retrofit, bumper is still Ebony Black but I went for fitting the larger washer bottle. I’ll get the bumper painted when able to do so.

This little thing was removed:
View attachment 65102
And his big brother was fitted:
View attachment 65101
This is an upgrade I’ve been wanting to do for a while. It’ll need some @timmus loving to complete the wiring which is hanging in a safe place ready for him.

Should be a straight forward bumper off, headlamp washer bumper on once it’s painted.

Kind regards,

Tom

Interesting, apart from the bumper & washers and tank, what else is needed for this conversion?
 
Interesting, apart from the bumper & washers and tank, what else is needed for this conversion?

Morning,

As the retrofit is yet to be 100% complete I cannot give you a definitive answer.

What I understand is that there is a different large relay which is required (It’s numbered 615 and goes where the large relay numbered 602 sits under the passenger footwell aluminium cover). Along with that is the wiring from the new relay to the headlamp washer motor down at the larger washer bottle. Additionally I understand that there is a ‘headlamps on’ feed which is needed so the washer jets only pop out when the washers are demanded and the headlamps are on. If the lights are off then only the windscreen gets a wash.

Here is the relay:
image.jpg

image.jpg

I have the larger relay ready to complete the retrofit.

There is a thread here about it from when @Birchall had the same retrofit on The Project a few years ago.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Morning All,

I know most of you will be watching the market area, but this is just a heads up that by the weekend I should have removed the following items:

1. RNS-E (192 Mk1) head unit as I’m further upgrading to the 193 Mk2 version, it was a fairly good deal which is the only reason for the change.
FDBD1412-42A0-4EDF-A1A7-639A41BACF43.jpeg

2. Platinum (light grey) Automatic Anti Dazzle Rear View Mirror. It has been working perfectly in my old and new A2. Only replacing this as the new A2 has a Twist interior and have since purchased a matching Twist (beige) item.
ACD2D989-8FFC-4174-96DC-26AE9813A5D3.jpeg

3. I should have made up my mind on whether or not to recolour my 2 Platinum (light grey) Space Floor Boxes / rear footwell storage boxes. Decisions decisions!
D849732C-3608-448D-8E42-0237AC5A952C.jpeg

Each of the items will be listed in Separate thread along with price to conform to the market place rules.

Other than waiting for items 1 and 2 to arrive along with deciding what to do about item 3, not much else going on with the A2 as I’m stuck in the spare room taking it back to bare brick for a total refresh.

Stay safe everyone.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Afternoon everyone,

After starting the Headlamp Washer Bumper preparation by fitting the larger Washer Bottle, I thought I’d start the preparation for the Rear PDC retrofit. This was commenced by sanding down the PDC sensors.

They have since had 5 coats of Azure Blue Paint and about 14 thin coats of clear lacquer.

This is what I used, which was an auction site purchase:
image.jpg

This is the results which are pretty good for a rattle can used outside in the glorious weather:
4F651D4D-910B-4D6C-8297-5DB60EF53468.jpeg

Next to no orange peel which is always a bonus. I did build up the lacquer so I could cut it back for perfect results.

Next thing to do is remove the rear bumper and cut the holes. I do have a decent hole cutter which took me a while to obtain the correct size for the OEM sensors. This will be conducted next week so pictures to follow.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
You may have read earlier that I fitted the Platinum Automatic Anti Dazzle Rear View Mirror. It is a great option to have in the cabin whilst driving at night but the Platinum colour was making me twitch each time I looked to see what was going on behind me.

Therefore I ordered a Twist version from the States as just couldn’t find on here in the UK or Europe. I knew that getting one from across the pond that it would have the addition of the digital compass. Would I actually use the compass, probably not but thought it a nice addition.

Well it arrived today after a rather long journey.

Within minutes this was removed:
3490558D-3549-4E6B-B43B-262BF20628B2.jpeg

Then after 5 minutes of trimming down the Twist mirror it was fitted. Looks much better in Twist I must say:
C68C39F3-3D92-4EAD-9EF6-DF6AAEB30388.jpeg

The digital compass, for me is not essential but at the same time it was absolutely a must as I like to have as much OEM+ as possible. It still is yet to be fully connected up but will sort that later.

It was a very quick set up to change the Country setting from Eastern USA to the UK followed by a quick calibration drive around an empty carpark. Very satisfied with the result. The compass is a little bright and not sure if it'll dim when dark, that said, it can be turned off by holding the power button a few seconds

Stay safe.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Continuing to make my commute even more enjoyable you will know I recently removed this:
652F0F91-688B-425D-B45A-D399EFA9ECD0.jpeg

The Symphony unity was great and I do like the retro look, as it’s in keeping with the A2. it has since been sold as I fitted this:
84D18368-C395-4D64-BCEF-B6D5181FFF76.jpeg

I really like the look of the RNS-E but really wanted the RNS-E PU (193 Mk2) unit.

Well I got a fairly good deal on a 2012 RNS-E PU (193G) from an A3. I had problems coding it suitably for the A2 as I just couldn’t tell it to behave as an A6. Done some further reading on the Ross Tech website and it appears that the newer 193 units cannot be coded to A6 mode. Feeling a little disappointed that I may have purchased something that is unusable I continued to read the RNS-E Firmware thread. I then remembered the post that @pcbbc posted a few months ago. Downloading the Firmware was simple, I struggled to get the 108mb of files onto a CD-R with the 3 Macs here at 2Work Towers. A quick chat to @sciroccorrado (as he is only up the road) and he was able to burn the data onto a CD for me. Thank you Jeremy.

After 5 minutes of putting the PCBBC Firmware into the unit it was running the new software. Very very good work done by @pcbbc, I feel a contribution heading your way. Thank you.

From the outset, without changing any settings, the navigation screen has the road speed limit displayed which was not possible before. Soon as I hooked it up to VCDS I was able to code it to behave as an A6. This also solved the initial problem I had that the HU wouldn’t shut down when the key was removed for the ignition. All sorted now.

Does this make the younger RNS-E Mk2 193 HUs usable, I guess yes but I’m no expert so will wait for a more knowledgeable member to arrive with their findings.

This is the new RNS-E fitted, I do like the chrome buttons and piano black surround:
75035419-0E8B-4CEA-B6E6-4E084E9671B3.jpeg

I’ll get the Dremel and wet & dry paper out over the next few days to complete the install.

The interior of the lovely A2 really is becoming somewhere enjoyable to sit for my circa 15 hours a week commute.

The main thing that is annoying is that I still cannot get the DIS to display the navigation page when pressing the button on the DIS Stalk. I couldn’t get it working on the previous HU which was working in the old A2 perfectly. It’ll be a coding thing which I’d gladly take some input from anyone to correct this. I have VCDS here so a few pointers please.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Quick update on trying to get the DIS to display the navigation page, after further reading it became clear that all that was needed was fire up VCDS again:

I followed this guide I found online:

STG 17 (Instrument cluster) -> Adaptation -> Function 10 -> Channel 62
+04 - Navigation

The stored figure was 1 so added the 4 and saved it as 5. Removed fuse 1 (10amp Instruments) for 10 minutes and all was solved. Also ticked the compass on the RNS-E settings to have the compass displayed on the DIS when destination is not is use.

Very happy with results, I know this would have been solved by Tom in seconds but it’s also very satisfying when you achieve something yourself:
image.jpg

Whilst being outside I noticed that the digital compass on the new auto dimming mirror does actually dim when ambient light is low:
image.jpg

You might be able to see a small wear mark on the power button, the red light is showing through. I think a little dab of Volico Twist paint is in order tomorrow.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Evening everyone,

Not much happened the last day or 2 so an hour ago I prepared my new Mk2 RNS-E for the finishing touches.

You’ll remember it looked like this in post #33:
8B43C799-D06E-4D88-A071-51DACE7A9BEF.jpeg

Yes, agreeing that it looks a too big, I wrapped it up in cling film and masking tape to see if it could loose a little weight:
2A6F6399-828C-4D77-86F5-0A9A5ECD3B3A.jpeg

8295847A-1A11-4163-B947-38AC9E71C570.jpeg

Got the old trusty tools to initiate the weight loss:
EC8F1184-00D6-41D9-AE85-A27007374F77.jpeg

After some Dremel action it had a quick sanding:
FACE2EDE-D8CC-4421-8388-67232263AE5E.jpeg

Diet complete and now fits perfectly in its new home. Not bad results for an hours tinkering:
25DBCDF9-5B3C-4A8E-9E31-AA6FCC31286B.jpeg

Very happy with the results, when I’ve done this previously I’ve opted for rounded corners but think sharp square corners actually look more in keeping.

Stay safe everyone.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Evening everyone,

Not much happened the last day or 2 so an hour ago I prepared my new Mk2 RNS-E for the finishing touches.

You’ll remember it looked like this in post #33:
View attachment 65489
Yes, agreeing that it looks a too big, I wrapped it up in cling film and masking tape to see if it could loose a little weight:
View attachment 65490
View attachment 65491
Got the old trusty tools to initiate the weight loss:
View attachment 65496
After some Dremel action it had a quick sanding:
View attachment 65497
Diet complete and now fits perfectly in its new home. Not bad results for an hours tinkering:
View attachment 65498
Very happy with the results, when I’ve done this previously I’ve opted for rounded corners but think sharp square corners actually look more in keeping.

Stay safe everyone.

Kind regards,

Tom
Amazing work fella! Looks awesome! You must be over the moon with this!
 
Amazing work fella! Looks awesome! You must be over the moon with this!

Thank you indeed for the nice comment.

Yes, without question, over the moon with the results. The interior of this amazing A2 is coming along lovely.

It will be an absolute pleasure to sit in during my commute when I return to work.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Thank you indeed for the nice comment.

Yes, without question, over the moon with the results. The interior of this amazing A2 is coming along lovely.

It will be an absolute pleasure to sit in during my commute when I return to work.

Kind regards,

Tom
Your hard work mate, you deserve to reap the rewards! Not got double din in mine!
 
Your hard work mate, you deserve to reap the rewards! Not got double din in mine!

Yes having a Double DIN Dashboard already fitted was great. It would have been difficult and expensive to get a matching Jive Dashboard.

If you are thinking of fitting a double DIN dashboard, it’s actually not that difficult. I found one in a breakers yards a few years ago and fitted one in my last A2. The job is 2 hours removal and and 2 hours fitting. Add in an additional 2 hours if you have to remove the DD Dashboard from another A2. They do appear on auction sites now and then for around £100-180.

It is intrusive work which involves removal of both front seats (optional but recommend), steering wheel along with the stalks and trim panels, glove box, passengers airbag and about 17 bolts (from memory). There is a thread somewhere in here that assisted me with the confidence to do it.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
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