Project Stob
- Thread starter mrbroons
- Start date
damadgeruk
A2OC Donor
Congratulations, saw it on Gumtree. Listed as having a water leak, how is it?
sciroccorrado
A2OC Donor
Also had this on my brothers TDI this weekend. Nice to have an easy fix (although my brother suggested it was water pump leaking so we only discovered after I had done the cambelt and water pump for him!).It could be a leaking/poorly sealed expansion tank cap ...
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
It could be a leaking/poorly sealed expansion tank cap ...
Good shout that man!! I remember that being an issue now you mention it! Do I just check the cap seal for degradation?
Vorsprung durch Technik
A2OC Donor
Been reading in ' how many vehicles " you think the fsi is fabulous. Sshhhh ? don't tell everyone - remember they're sh*te! ?
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
Like every car, they are all fabulous when they are working, less so when they are not. At least with cheaper cars you have a lot less regret about your life choices than say a £120k Rage Rover, sorry I mean Range Rover
although saying that most of them are pretty solid too.Just get yourself a Febi expansion tank cap for less than a tenner - the o-ring gets brittle and stops filling the gaps. Obviously there are other aftermarkets but I've had three of these on my three cars.
My ebay records suggest Febi part number 14700 corresponding to VAG part number - 1J0121321A or B (I haven't confirmed the latter codes, one quick search suggests either / or.
My ebay records suggest Febi part number 14700 corresponding to VAG part number - 1J0121321A or B (I haven't confirmed the latter codes, one quick search suggests either / or.
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
Many thanks, should I see water seeping when hot as a symptom? or just check the cap when cold for a brittle o-ring. The car has just had the death pipe work completed prior to sale so I'll check this also for any ham-fisted repairs. ?
The thing I found with ours was that they were loose when the engine was completely cold - ie, there was no significant rotational friction when in the notionally clicked-home position. When examined underneath the plastic was mildly discoloured (16+ years old), and the o-ring felt hard to touch and looked a bit ropey.
It was on the AUA that we had the most significant problem - just after purchase had a couple of low coolant alarms and the tank was sub-limit, so I topped up and then watched. While running after a few minutes it would seep gently from around the lid, a few pink droplets at a time onto the ridge halfway down the casing, not absolutely peeing out. I believed to begin with that there may be a slight head issue, but after extensive reading here and noting that the coolant was completely clean, was pointed towards replacing the cap for the above reason - for the price it was a no-brainer. Tried it once on a light 6 mile run with the new lid (in case crank case pressurisation was an issue), and nothing came out, so then did the loop again this time giving it the beans, and again there was no leak, either from the lid or from the safety valve thing on the back of the casing. After that I checked the Tdis - one was looser than the other - so in the end I changed both for the sake of it.
In some cases you might not realise that the o-ring is going until you get a new one and can compare how much more pliant the new one is compared to the old one. It might only be a small proportion of a millimetre chubbier but that makes a hell of a difference for sealing purposes. Best of luck!
It was on the AUA that we had the most significant problem - just after purchase had a couple of low coolant alarms and the tank was sub-limit, so I topped up and then watched. While running after a few minutes it would seep gently from around the lid, a few pink droplets at a time onto the ridge halfway down the casing, not absolutely peeing out. I believed to begin with that there may be a slight head issue, but after extensive reading here and noting that the coolant was completely clean, was pointed towards replacing the cap for the above reason - for the price it was a no-brainer. Tried it once on a light 6 mile run with the new lid (in case crank case pressurisation was an issue), and nothing came out, so then did the loop again this time giving it the beans, and again there was no leak, either from the lid or from the safety valve thing on the back of the casing. After that I checked the Tdis - one was looser than the other - so in the end I changed both for the sake of it.
In some cases you might not realise that the o-ring is going until you get a new one and can compare how much more pliant the new one is compared to the old one. It might only be a small proportion of a millimetre chubbier but that makes a hell of a difference for sealing purposes. Best of luck!
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
Just had enough time to perform a quick scan. This will make a great thread for those who are scared of getting an FSi, let's see if we can get this one sorted out together. I'm open to all assistance on this and happy to be a test bed for idea's which I will film to help bring to life for everyone. I hope that we can demystify the FSi and therefore allow others to enjoy them (they are absolutely fabulous when they are running well)
I'm open to any offers of help, I don't profess to be an expert, but I hope to be much more knowledgeable with everyones help and to give back to everyone some interesting films of the fixes I try and how these cars can be kept running.
Issue 1 is likely to be the Voldemort problem for FSi's. Issue 2, 3, 4 and 5 are not specific to an FSi as far as I'm aware.
Thoughts suggestions? Constructive or otherwise
I'm open to any offers of help, I don't profess to be an expert, but I hope to be much more knowledgeable with everyones help and to give back to everyone some interesting films of the fixes I try and how these cars can be kept running.
Issue 1 is likely to be the Voldemort problem for FSi's. Issue 2, 3, 4 and 5 are not specific to an FSi as far as I'm aware.
Thoughts suggestions? Constructive or otherwise
- 17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316) - P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
This is the typical FSi flaps issue - it could be the potentiometer or the vaccum actuator - more info here
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/fault-p1031.8692/page-4 - Please use this thread for all updates and I will give any project specific information here - Thanks PlasticMac I hadn't spotted this one on my search.
2. 17861 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235) - P1453 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus -
I think that the best thing to do here is read the sensor values with VCDS and see if the sensor is dead - does anyone have a known good one they are willing to sell cheaply?
3. 17947 - Clutch Pedal Switch (F36) - P1539 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
4. 00600 - Potentiometer On Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (G92) - 30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
I have seen this one many times before but never got to the bottom of it - lets investigate this one
It would appear that these are common A2 aircon faults but will likely require the Dash to come out, this seems to be the best way to go, does anyone have any suggestions for more accurate diagnosis without doing so much work? I've watched @timmus take out one of my A2 dashboards before to switch to double din, but honestly I can't remember how. I'll start looking for a guide. There are further faults below, but these could all be related so will treat these all as issue 4.
00710 - Defroster Flap Positioning Motor (V107) - 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70) - 41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68) - 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113) - 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
5. 01562 - Rear right door - 61-00 - Won't De-Safe -
More info here - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01562
Last edited:
PlasticMac
Admin Team
Your first fault, "Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316) - P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached" links to similar current (recently revived) thread:
which is also aimed at understanding/demystifying the flap operation. Lots of info in there, and your offer of testing would be useful, not least to @lfield. Have a read.
Suggest we don't run two parallel threads on this, as that would dilute the value of both.
Mac.
fault p1031
hi guys, im new to this site and also a relitivley new a2 owner (12months), i love my little car however i have had a few niggles with it and having paid out at main dealers thought i would seek alternative advice, my latest prob is the engine management light being on, its saying fault p1031...
www.a2oc.net
Suggest we don't run two parallel threads on this, as that would dilute the value of both.
Mac.
oneflewover
Member
Fabulous ambition, when I get other garage roof related problems sorted, a Storm is well up on my list of projects and FSI seem to pop up quite often. This thread will give me some confidence
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
I'll defer to the other thread for updating the key information of course but as this is a project thread I'll update here to keep the information with the project, thanks for bringing this one to my attention. I've been involved in other threads on this some years ago so keen to get to a nice checklist of things to try. My first shot today will be running some Wynn's EGR 3 through the system as it's a simple if not permanent fix and as the car is higher in miles I'm expecting there to be significant carbon build up in the system. I also have an endoscope so I'll use that and see if I can get any decent shots of the inside of the piston crowns and intake just to set the tone for future works to improve performance and MPG
http://www.autosessive.com/blog/index.php/2014/05/22/audi-a2-manifold-flap-curse/
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
Update on Issue 1:
The manifold rod appears to be attached, there is no break in it and it moves but only under pressure and seems to return to the "down" position with a little assistance (maybe sticking). This is inline with the system being intact if not necessarily working correctly.
I recorded data from the car on Engine measurement 1 and 142 on VCDS, the data was pretty fixed at about 24% continuous (which is the value for the operation of the flap from the potentiometer) even when warm and and revving to around 4k but I will repeat today and upload the latest spreadsheet of information
I have managed to find the output test for the flap but I could only run it once it seems. I will re-test again today.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uxkv7ylfbyhu9e1/LOG-01-001-142-143.xlsx?dl=0
I filmed the process, hopefully this will help others.
The manifold rod appears to be attached, there is no break in it and it moves but only under pressure and seems to return to the "down" position with a little assistance (maybe sticking). This is inline with the system being intact if not necessarily working correctly.
I recorded data from the car on Engine measurement 1 and 142 on VCDS, the data was pretty fixed at about 24% continuous (which is the value for the operation of the flap from the potentiometer) even when warm and and revving to around 4k but I will repeat today and upload the latest spreadsheet of information
I have managed to find the output test for the flap but I could only run it once it seems. I will re-test again today.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uxkv7ylfbyhu9e1/LOG-01-001-142-143.xlsx?dl=0
I filmed the process, hopefully this will help others.
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
Here is a link to my latest file from today testing the Actuator
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2sp9oq4awxz0qw/LOG-01-001-142-xxx.xlsx?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2sp9oq4awxz0qw/LOG-01-001-142-xxx.xlsx?dl=0
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
To follow up on this point - I again tried the output tests today (and recorded the actuator rod at the same time). There is absolutely no movement on the rod when activated - and now I appreciate that the car ignition has to be switched off and back on again in order to repeat the testing.
mrbroons
Well-Known Member
Quick update. I have now re-re-tested on measuring block 142 and when moving the arm I get from around 24% to 100% registered, so I'm guessing that the potentiometer is in fine shape. I have also unplumbed the actuator and when running the intake manifold tests there is no vacuum present through the hose (I presume this is NOT normal?). My next step is to get some tubing and test the actuator manually to rule this out at the culprit.