Rear pdc genuine retrofit?

Bumping this thread - my wife and I agree that rear parking sensors / PDC would be a useful upgrade in Audrey, having experienced and appreciated them in Akoya, due to the restricted rear vision especially in bad weather.

I’ve purchased a good used control unit (8Z0919283) and beeper / speaker (8E0919279) very cheap off eBay - I assume I now need to buy the sensors of course - are the cobra / stealth ones worth going for over the OE ones?

Also how easy are these to wire in if I try myself using the Kuftatec loom kits (links HERE and HERE)?

I guess my other option is asking Tom @timmus to fit the kit, not sure Tom if you would make your own looms or suggest I go with the KT ones?
 
I would always use my own looms. The KufaTec looms are rubbish.

Cheers,

Tom
Hi Tom,

I sent you a PM - but are there more innocuous-looking sensors that can be made to work with an otherwise-OE setup that you'd suggest I look at?

Audrey goes to the body shop next week and they're offering to fit any I buy ready for you to do the rest of the installation.

Thanks.
 
Hi Tom,

I sent you a PM - but are there more innocuous-looking sensors that can be made to work with an otherwise-OE setup that you'd suggest I look at?

Audrey goes to the body shop next week and they're offering to fit any I buy ready for you to do the rest of the installation.

Thanks.
Hi David,

PM received. Thank you. A reply is forthcoming.

Unless later Audi sensors are electrically compatible with the OE control unit, I’m not aware of any alternative to the original sensors. They’re a little chunky compared to those in more modern cars, but not aesthetically awkward, I don’t feel.

Best regards,

Tom
 
Hi Steve @2work or other, who may have the prior mentioned 23mm hole punch.

I have all the bits required for a rear PDC install, and am about to enter into the unnessesarially difficult job of taking off my rear bumper to install the sensors.

I have the 23mm (larger) ones, that look like factory sensors, and want to try and do a decent job.

Am I able to borrow the punch, if it is still around?

The whole job should cost under £200, with the best £15 spent on a can of colour code paint (Colbolt Blue LZ5Q) which I am hoping will match well, and really finish the job. I will try and paint around the punch holes also, depending on how well the sensors fit.

Cheers

Matt
 
HI
I don't have the punch kit (returned it).
I also tried a rattle can to paint the rear park sensors and it was a very poor paint match(LZ3Q)
I am going to put the park sensors and the bumper into a local body shop (they just did my mk2 golf panels) to have them professionally paint matched before fitting the rear bumper.
I have gotten sidetracked on my mk2 golf project.
 
Thanks Steve, Let's hope the other Steve has it, or it is still alive somewhere. I have not managed to even find one like that shown, never mind buy it. I was considering buying a PDC bumper all kitted out, but silver, which would have been easy, but also was bound to result in a full respray due to that being required due to marks on nearly all panels. Even if the colour match is poor, it will be fine for me until I can afford the full treatment!

Matt
 
am about to enter into the unnessesarially difficult job of taking off my rear bumper to install the sensors.
I have the 23mm (larger) ones, that look like factory sensors, and want to try and do a decent job.
Am I able to borrow the punch, if it is still around?
It's not difficult to take off the rear bumper. Here is a YT video + some photos I took to help the task.


Perhaps you are thinking of the club punch I have that was passed to me by @Kleynie . Unfortunately for you it's 17mm for the after market Cobra sensors.

Also, while the bumper is off you will be wise to seal the edges of the air vents before they leak and flood the boot. @Kleynie in another post recommended:
Dow Corning 781 in black. Apply the mastic then spray with a water/fairy liquid solution and smooth with your finger dipped in fairy liquid.
 
Thanks

I’ll look at the video etc. I have seen one where the guy is installing a tow bar, but I am thinking it is still a bit of a job for the bumper and the internal lining detaching to fit all the PDC stuff.
Your comments make me think it will not be so bad.

The thread shows a 23mm punch with @2work and another at @oneflewover so I am hoping there is one around, but there is one for £33 on Amazon.

Cheers

Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Steve @2work or other, who may have the prior mentioned 23mm hole punch.

I have all the bits required for a rear PDC install, and am about to enter into the unnessesarially difficult job of taking off my rear bumper to install the sensors.

I have the 23mm (larger) ones, that look like factory sensors, and want to try and do a decent job.

Am I able to borrow the punch, if it is still around?

The whole job should cost under £200, with the best £15 spent on a can of colour code paint (Colbolt Blue LZ5Q) which I am hoping will match well, and really finish the job. I will try and paint around the punch holes also, depending on how well the sensors fit.

Cheers

Matt
Evening Matt,

Yes I still have the 23mm hole punch I used on the rear bumper of Project OEM:


IMG_7652.png


IMG_7653.png


IMG_7654.png


IMG_7655.png


IMG_7656.png


IMG_7658.png


I’m not far off using it myself on Project EUD as not having already fitted the PDC sensors is halting the fitting of the Votex rear valance.

I should be finished with the hole lunch by next weekend if you can wait that long. If you need it urgently then I can send it down to you as long as it comes back reasonably quickly so I can used it myself.

Let me know your considered timeline.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Thanks Tom

That would be really appreciated, and of course, I will wait until you have finished with it, as I am still awaiting my sensor mounts.

I’ll send the details in a PM

Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Tom

That would be really appreciated, and of course, I will wait until you have finished with it, as I am still awaiting my sensor mounts.

I’ll send the details in a PM

Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi again Matt,

This is probably the kick uk the backside I need to complete PDC sensor install. Promise I’ll have it in the post to you by next weekend.

If you’re purchasing new sensor holders then they’ll be flat and won’t sit perfectly flush with the bumper on the outer sensors. Suggest a pre-heating of the holder to get them to the correct curved shape before adhering to the bumper. Once you have the sensor holders in ykur hand and the bumper removed then all will make sense. Only a few minutes to beat them up and push them into pmace to get them shape.

The PDC sensor instal is very satisfying if you get the paint job just right. As others have said, whilst you have the rear bumper off, seal up the rear vents with some silicone.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Slightly off topic, but I've just had to replace my original Parking sensors after two of them failed. One caused no fault codes, but didn't register anything in close proximity. The other one caused the "squeal of doom" when reverse was engaged. It seems that the original part number 4B0919275A is no longer available, but I used the 7M3919275A which is freely available as a genuine VW part. I got mine from here:

Genuine VW Audi Parking Sensors
 
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How do I find out if the pcds are faulty using vcds please.
Hello Join,

VCDs should tell you if something is not right with each sensor Sir. If VCDs doesn’t pick anything up then all should be good. What is your exact issue to see if I’m able to remotely assist.

You can also get your good ear next to each sensor with the ignition on and reverse selected (engine not running of course) where you can hear a faint clicking. If the standard fault code output doesn’t give you all the information you require then something isn’t right.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
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I am in the end of the process to retrofit PDC, and will write up the salient points soon, however I have a serious issue that has just arisen....

Yesterday, I did the loom, and connected everything up. All sensors and looms, speaker etc etc. I coded the unit with VCDS, and it was working perfectly, beeping away as I walked across.

Today, I completed the bumper work, and put it all back together, and I get nothing!

I have 12v from the continous feed (Pin 7 at the module I think). I get 12v with the ignition being on (pin 1 I think). And I get another 12v when the reverse lights are on (pin 5 or 6).
Thus, I think the power to the module is OK. (However, the continous feed drops to about 5v when the ignition is on - This is a bit strange, but it was working yesterday).

I cannot connect VCDS, even with power etc. This sort of makes me think it is not just a dud speaker, but the actual module.

I have checked all connections, which were untouched since yesteday.

Does anyone know if the CAN high and/or LOW, and the diagnosis connections are imperative for it to work? As mentioned, they are untouched since it was working.

I have disconnected the battery, and will have a look again tomorrow, but it is a bit weird.
I may have to find another continous power feed, but as it has been working, I doubt this is the issue.

Do the modules fail?

THanks

Matt
 
I am in the end of the process to retrofit PDC, and will write up the salient points soon, however I have a serious issue that has just arisen....

Yesterday, I did the loom, and connected everything up. All sensors and looms, speaker etc etc. I coded the unit with VCDS, and it was working perfectly, beeping away as I walked across.

Today, I completed the bumper work, and put it all back together, and I get nothing!

I have 12v from the continous feed (Pin 7 at the module I think). I get 12v with the ignition being on (pin 1 I think). And I get another 12v when the reverse lights are on (pin 5 or 6).
Thus, I think the power to the module is OK. (However, the continous feed drops to about 5v when the ignition is on - This is a bit strange, but it was working yesterday).

I cannot connect VCDS, even with power etc. This sort of makes me think it is not just a dud speaker, but the actual module.

I have checked all connections, which were untouched since yesteday.

Does anyone know if the CAN high and/or LOW, and the diagnosis connections are imperative for it to work? As mentioned, they are untouched since it was working.

I have disconnected the battery, and will have a look again tomorrow, but it is a bit weird.
I may have to find another continous power feed, but as it has been working, I doubt this is the issue.

Do the modules fail?

THanks

Matt
Hello Matt,

Yes the feed you mention are required for the module to correctly function. The CAN pair are what the module send and also receives communication/messages. The K-Line diagnostics feed is also required, if it’s not connected then it will not communicate on the diagnostics (VCDS). You’ll not be able to pick the module up on VCDs and as such you’ll be unable to code it.

If you have the genuine kit with the aftermarket loom then just follow the instructions to connect each feed. The install instructions, both aftermarket loom and referring to the EWD suggests that most of what’s required connecting is located at the instrument cluster regions, these feeds can be taken from various other places within the vehicle.

Great effort on getting the rear bumper off, cut and back on Sir. You’re obviously so close to completing this retrofit. More than happy to talk you through the rest of it if need be.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
I am in the end of the process to retrofit PDC, and will write up the salient points soon, however I have a serious issue that has just arisen....

Yesterday, I did the loom, and connected everything up. All sensors and looms, speaker etc etc. I coded the unit with VCDS, and it was working perfectly, beeping away as I walked across.

Today, I completed the bumper work, and put it all back together, and I get nothing!

I have 12v from the continous feed (Pin 7 at the module I think). I get 12v with the ignition being on (pin 1 I think). And I get another 12v when the reverse lights are on (pin 5 or 6).
Thus, I think the power to the module is OK. (However, the continous feed drops to about 5v when the ignition is on - This is a bit strange, but it was working yesterday).

I cannot connect VCDS, even with power etc. This sort of makes me think it is not just a dud speaker, but the actual module.

I have checked all connections, which were untouched since yesteday.

Does anyone know if the CAN high and/or LOW, and the diagnosis connections are imperative for it to work? As mentioned, they are untouched since it was working.

I have disconnected the battery, and will have a look again tomorrow, but it is a bit weird.
I may have to find another continous power feed, but as it has been working, I doubt this is the issue.

Do the modules fail?

THanks

Matt
Just to reply to my own post....
A decent nights sleep allowed me to see what was already in front of me.

The 'Constant 12v' was indeed that, until the ignition was then turned on. This supply then strangely 'moved about', sometimes 12v, sometimes not.
A re-routing to a clean 12v constant source made all the difference, and it is again all working perfectly.

Picking up feeds is not really recommended, unless you trace back and can determine their suitability.

Installation of a new fuse sub-box in the passenger footwell is my solution. There is a large current feed direct from the battery, and I can run an earth to the point in the passenger A pillar (just to be absolutely sure it earths properly).

This is for PDC (now), Lumbar, Amplifier and sub-woofer.

I'll put more detailed PDC notes on a relevant 'How to' PDC thread.

Matt
 
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