Rear top shock mount

ChadRelou

New Member
Hi everyone I have a abit of a weird one here .I replaced both my rear shock absorbers NSR went well But when doing the OSR i loosened one of the two top shock mount bolts and the captive nut in the chassis/body has seemed to become detected and obviously cannot tighten anymore is there a way of accessing the it from the interior or exterior or am I pretty much screwed? Any advise will be much appreciated thanks
 

Evripidis

Member
This is an interesting one. I am sure that someone will reply soon. I did mine recently and I can only imagine that bolt being accessible from the back somehow.
 

ChadRelou

New Member
Thanks yes it must be from the interior some how as the boot floor on the A2 starts from very low hopefully some one will have some insight into this .
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
Thanks yes it must be from the interior some how as the boot floor on the A2 starts from very low hopefully some one will have some insight into this .
Yes, I think you are screwed. Sorry to dash your hopes but I think the no longer captive nut is not accessible from the interior.

image.jpeg


With the shock removed if you put your finger behind you will feel it, but more importantly it is a good way, say 40mm, behind the nut before you hit the interior aluminium. The nut must have been welded at an early stage of the factory build before the the interior wheel arch was added.

The only thing I can suggest is you use a small diameter long reach drill through the nut, not damaging the thread, to drill through to the interior. With exact position now known on the inside open up the hole with a hole saw enough to get a box spanner through the hole to hold the nut on tightening the bolt. Incidentally you are supposed to use new bolts - you are certain it is the nut and not the bolt which has stripped?

Follow this advice at your own risk, if you think it makes a structurally weak get a welder to weld a plate over the hole but certainly you will have to weather proof it.

Keep us posted on progress and pictures.

Andy
 
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audifan

A2OC Donor
I fear @Andrew may be correct. The only other area to try before you pull the whole rear interior out is this. In the boot remove the access vent panel for the right rear lights, reach in and disconnect the fuel flap release rod. Reaching in further forward and up top you MAY be able to access the offending nut. Will be easier if you have an endoscope to view the area behind first. If it can be accessed then the endoscope can be used to guide spanners, sockets or mole grips into the area. I doubt any access would be available if the rear exterior arch was removed.
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
I fear @Andrew may be correct. The only other area to try before you pull the whole rear interior out is this. In the boot remove the access vent panel for the right rear lights, reach in and disconnect the fuel flap release rod. Reaching in further forward and up top you MAY be able to access the offending nut. Will be easier if you have an endoscope to view the area behind first. If it can be accessed then the endoscope can be used to guide spanners, sockets or mole grips into the area. I doubt any access would be available if the rear exterior arch was removed.
Good shout, I looked today and the top mount fixing holes are just to right of the fuel flap from memory. With the shock removed you may be able to see daylight from inside here. I will look more closely at the weekend.

Andy
 

Kleynie

Member
No chance of accessing from the rear vents, see attached that I posted on FB earlier. The hollow section is welded to the wheel arch, the only access being through the hole where the top cap of the damper sits.

Ian
 

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DuncanA2

Member
Just a thought;
Can you unscrew the other bolt ? If so, with a bit of luck you can flex the head of the other bolt and pull the rear shockabsorber. Once removed, you can possibly clamp the threaded part through the hole and remove the remaining part of the bolt. I think in order to use the thread again one needs to weld the thread to the body again and grind it flush and a bit of paint for protection. All is good then. I have never come across such challenge, you are not in luck I suppose. But I think it is solvable.
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
Need feedback from OP. Is the shock out? If not fear as the bolt won't tighten then it will just spin when trying to remove it. Grind bolt head off? Still leaves original problem of tightening it.

Andy
 

DuncanA2

Member
As mentioned above, you need to spot-weld the thread again and grind it flush. If you can weld aluminium, there is no problem. Same solution as factory applicated.
But few owners will have the availabilty to weld aluminium at their home diy shop. 😉
 
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