Rear wheel bearing - just checking before I start

OldBanger

Member
Hello,

I'm pretty sure one of my rear wheel bearings needs replacing - I’ve checked that the new humming noise is not the brake pads being worn down to the rivets, and during the inspection - whipped of the cover to the bearing and noted a small amount of rust inside the plate cover and bearing housing. upon replacing the wheel - I span the wheel by hand as fast as I could and heard a rumble noise - conclusion - rear wheel bearing for sure ???

I've replaced bearings before - on pre 80's cars, but without a Hynes I’m a little worried to start this job - with out checking here.

In the past - Id whip off the cap , clean out the grease, remove the split pin from a castellated nut, undo the nut, prize out the bearing, grease and fit new bearing using <b>feeler gauges</b> during tightening = to ensure the correct tightness.

What can expect with this job (on the audi),,, will I need anything more than a 30mm socket and torque wrench, how will I know how tight to tighten them. and also is there some ABS sensor or something that I need to look out for?

( I’ve tried search here for help about this job but alas couldn’t find anything that answered all my concerns) :eek:)

Any help and advice welcome

Cheers
Jon
 
Hi Jon,

Not sure if this might help!

I have no experience of doing this job myself on an A2

Cheers

Jeff
 

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WOW ! Thank you

That’s excellent Jeff, very much appreciated.

Jon

Very similar job by the looks,,, now I just need to get my paws on one of those clamps,,,, or could I try a hammer from behind ? (anyone)
 
Every time I have taken the hub off it has just slid off really easily. Why not just do a dry run to check?
The dust cover just chisels off with a screw driver.
You can get a whole new hub for about £15 on e bay so worth considering doing if it is a bit rough or sloppy or whiny
 
Hello, i have a question about torquing the rear wheel bearing, here is the description:

I've been replacing rear parking brake cables, no need to remove the hubs but i've noticed they were significantly tight, just like i could feel the balls skipping. I thought its a rust buildup on ABS rings, so i removed the hubs and cleaned everything.

But after i've installed them according to the procedure, 70Nm +30deg they were too tight like before. So i've tried again, even with rotating the hub while torquing and the same result. The hubs actually are not that old, looks like previous owner has replaced them not a long time ago.

But, when i only torque then first step 70Nm, they rotate ok, no play, no drag. But when i go further they become way too tight IMO.
So for now, i've bought new locknuts, and i'm planning to just torque them by feel, and not any further.

Whats your opinion, if i may ask, has anyone came across such case.
 
Hi everyone!!! I just replaced the rear right wheel bearing (identical with old one). After tightening the securing bolt(brand new) with the coorect torque (70nm+30deg), the wheel bearing has still play !!! any thoughts?

2001 audi a2 1400 tdi
 
Hi everyone!!! I just replaced the rear right wheel bearing (identical with old one). After tightening the securing bolt(brand new) with the coorect torque (70nm+30deg), the wheel bearing has still play !!! any thoughts?

2001 audi a2 1400 tdi
Hi SERGIO VA,
That will most probably be the expansion tolerance to allow for when the bearing gets up to temperature.
The important thing is that you’ve torqued it up correctly.
Hope that helps
Keith.
 
Hi SERGIO VA,
That will most probably be the expansion tolerance to allow for when the bearing gets up to temperature.
The important thing is that you’ve torqued it up correctly.
Hope that helps
Keith.
so the play should stop in the future or not??? after how many km on the road shoud it set???
thank you for your help!!
 
Last edited:
so the play should stop in the future or not??? after how many km on the road shoud it set???
thank you for your help!!
You are setting the bearing cold by the torque specified by Audi in this case, when driven the bearing temperature will increase & tighten as it expands before cooling down when stationary
this designed in by the manufacturer.
If there was no free play the bearing would overheat & eventually fail.
Keith
 
so the play should stop in the future or not??? after how many km on the road shoud it set???
thank you for your help!!

I guess the question is, how much play are you talking about, more or less than before? And is the bearing now quiet when driving?
 
the old one had zero play but making some (annoying) noise. the new bearing making zero noise but has a little play. what a weird case!!!
 
the old one had zero play but making some (annoying) noise. the new bearing making zero noise but has a little play. what a weird case!!!

Well I think I'd call that a success and only revisit if it starts making a noise again! ;-)
 
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