Reluctant Starting

Tandem pump ‘can’ be repaired but I would not recommend it. Far better to fit a new one

If you have the plastic filter housing and the original plastic drain screw you would be far safer ordering one of my aluminium drain screws as the plastic one is highly likely to break and your in a owl world of pain then

Cheers Paul


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As a matter of interest, why is it called a tandem pump? and why is it a vacuum and fuel pump? I've heard a lot of good things about your drain screws and naturally would like one...please send cost and payment details. Are you an RC'er? couldn't help noticing the flugzeug in your Icon (?) I suppose mention of the term "Depron" would have been the giveaway. Bosch or Bilstein for the fuel pump? Cheers and thanks as always for your enduring help....Paul
 
There are physically two pumps one behind the other internally driven from the same shaft...hence tandem pump.

The diesel engine does not produce enough inlet manifold vacuum so a vacuum pump is needed for the various control valves and the brakes servo. The mechanical fuel pump sucks the fuel from the tank and raises the pressure dramatically into the fuel rail for the injectors. It also provides a return path for all the surplus fuel back to the tank.

As far as choosing a replacement tandem is concerned a few things need to be taken into consideration. A LUK or similar will be a direct fit on all diesel engines regardless if the car is left hand or right hand drive. The better Bosch or similar pump is only a direct fit on all left hand drive cars. It is however a direct fit on AMF engined right hand drive cars. If the car is a right hand drive BHC or ATL an additional spacer is required to provide clearance between the ASV and tandem pump before the Bosch style pump can be used.
 
As a matter of interest, why is it called a tandem pump? and why is it a vacuum and fuel pump? I've heard a lot of good things about your drain screws and naturally would like one...please send cost and payment details. Are you an RC'er? couldn't help noticing the flugzeug in your Icon (?) I suppose mention of the term "Depron" would have been the giveaway. Bosch or Bilstein for the fuel pump? Cheers and thanks as always for your enduring help....Paul

Audifan as answered most of your question
The drain screw is only used on the latter plastic fuel filter so please look up near the passenger side rear wheel at the sill end there may be an aluminium heat shield covering the filter or it may have long since dropped off
If still in place a mirror and torch and you will be able to see the filter. If it is an aluminium canister you do not need the drain screw if it is a black plastic unit then you do need the drain screw
They are £23 for the machined aluminium screw and £5 postage. RM second class signed for

Drop me a pm for for PayPal details


Yes been an RC’er for 40 years
I did a lot of indoor flying a few years ago and designed a number of well respected indoor aircraft the euro fighter in my avatar being one
I was laser cutting kits from Depron before they stopped making it hence the name Depronman as that is what my kits where know under. The forum name Depronman stuff from the RC forums

As for the make of pump as Audifan explains it is Bosch all the way if your on an amf engine but that is not a direct fit to the bhc and atl engines, doable but not a bolt off bolt on job

Cheers. Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There are physically two pumps one behind the other internally driven from the same shaft...hence tandem pump.

The diesel engine does not produce enough inlet manifold vacuum so a vacuum pump is needed for the various control valves and the brakes servo. The mechanical fuel pump sucks the fuel from the tank and raises the pressure dramatically into the fuel rail for the injectors. It also provides a return path for all the surplus fuel back to the tank.

As far as choosing a replacement tandem is concerned a few things need to be taken into consideration. A LUK or similar will be a direct fit on all diesel engines regardless if the car is left hand or right hand drive. The better Bosch or similar pump is only a direct fit on all left hand drive cars. It is however a direct fit on AMF engined right hand drive cars. If the car is a right hand drive BHC or ATL an additional spacer is required to provide clearance between the ASV and tandem pump before the Bosch style pump can be used.
Cheers for the heads up, mine is a RHD 1.4Tdi (75) AMF so Bosch it is.
 
Audifan as answered most of your question
The drain screw is only used on the latter plastic fuel filter so please look up near the passenger side rear wheel at the sill end there may be an aluminium heat shield covering the filter or it may have long since dropped off
If still in place a mirror and torch and you will be able to see the filter. If it is an aluminium canister you do not need the drain screw if it is a black plastic unit then you do need the drain screw
They are £23 for the machined aluminium screw and £5 postage. RM second class signed for

Drop me a pm for for PayPal details


Yes been an RC’er for 40 years
I did a lot of indoor flying a few years ago and designed a number of well respected indoor aircraft the euro fighter in my avatar being one
I was laser cutting kits from Depron before they stopped making it hence the name Depronman as that is what my kits where know under. The forum name Depronman stuff from the RC forums

As for the make of pump as Audifan explains it is Bosch all the way if your on an amf engine but that is not a direct fit to the bhc and atl engines, doable but not a bolt off bolt on job

Cheers. Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is a really stoopid question....how do I PM you?
 
Well it looks like the fuel filter may have been part of the problem, would a 12 month old fuel filter (and 10,000 miles later) filter be as grotty as this? Going to let Barney stand for a couple of days and see if he's still reluctant to start up before the tandem pump gets changed.
 

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Well it looks like the fuel filter may have been part of the problem, would a 12 month old fuel filter (and 10,000 miles later) filter be as grotty as this? Going to let Barney stand for a couple of days and see if he's still reluctant to start up before the tandem pump gets changed.
That's the yucky slime that grows in the moisture at the bottom of a diesel tank. Draining that water off periodically with the drain plug in the bottom of the filter will minimise it. In theory diesel filters don't need changing that often, but draining the moisture should be done at every service at a minimum.
 
That's the yucky slime that grows in the moisture at the bottom of a diesel tank. Draining that water off periodically with the drain plug in the bottom of the filter will minimise it. In theory diesel filters don't need changing that often, but draining the moisture should be done at every service at a minimum.
Is it worth cleaning the tank out?
 
Is it worth cleaning the tank out?
If you're obsessive with nothing better to do perhaps, but just keeping the moisture in the tank to a minimum and letting the filter do it's work is the more practical approach that works for me.
 
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