Replacement Keys, Remote Locking, Blade Cutting, ID48 Programming etc

Fishman

Fishman

A2OC Donor
I have been supplied with one very tired battered key (8Z0 837 231D) with my new (to me) A2. The flip mechanism is very worn, it folds in half very easily when in the ignition. There is a lot of physical damage (you can see the battery inside) and the remote locking doesnt work...... so generally its fut!

I did purchase a new aftermarket key body off eBay hoping to transfer the PCB, ID48 chip and key blade but the item was junk and incorrectly designed for the transplant.

I would like to buy two new keys, one to replace the battered one and one for my wife. I have been told that I can use a slightly more modern key, which is nice for me as most of the XXX 837 231 type keys are quite aged and battered now!

Am I best off buying second hand genuine keys and rebuilding them with new blade and transponder? - if so what OEM Part No's
What is the best procedure for syncing the remote locking?
Is VagTacho the best tool for finding the immobiliser code and programming the new keys?

I have looked online and companies are happy to charge me £150 per key for this but this seems a bit much and I'm hoping its DIY-able and I'll learn some bits along the way.

This is not something I have delved into in the past, I do have an old copy of VagTacho and VCDS, any experiences or info would be very much appreciated.

TIA
 
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Take it the car does not start either? If that is the case then the immobiliser is not being disarmed by the ID48 chips in the key(s). Do the keys all work remotely and the blades open the drivers door and turn the ignition on? Are they used keys or new?
 
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audifan said:
Take it the car does not start either? If that is the case then the immobiliser is not being disarmed by the ID48 chips in the key(s). Do the keys all work remotely and the blades open the drivers door and turn the ignition on? Are they used keys or new?
Click to expand...

Two keys are new and one is the existing key. The car starts and runs, the flashing immobiliser lamp isn’t confidence inspiring.

The blades all work perfectly and the remote locking has been coded and works a treat too.

I used VAG Commander 1.4 to get the SKC and VCDS to code the transponders.
 
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What type of keys? What cable did you use for VAG Commander and exactly what did you do in VAG COMMANDER. The dash has a problem with something. Can you narrow it down to one key, or the 2 new keys. You did get ID48 chips didn't you as there are other ones especially in later Audis.
 
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audifan said:
So ALL 3 keys start the engine? Try a full VCDS scan to see if anything is picked up.
Click to expand...

All keys HAVE started the engine but subsequent programming of others has messed up ones that worked only a few mins earlier.
Auto-scan did pull a fault code about keys.. I’ll get the laptop out tomorrow morning but I think it was a P01176.

These are new 220E keys coded to an AE suffix CCM.
 
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audifan said:
What type of keys? What cable did you use for VAG Commander and exactly what did you do in VAG COMMANDER. The dash has a problem with something. Can you narrow it down to one key, or the 2 new keys. You did get ID48 chips didn't you as there are other ones especially in later Audis.
Click to expand...
I can’t even remember where I got the VAG Commander, I selected K-line, then read and after about 30seconds a 4 digit value appeared in the ‘PIN’ field. I added a zero to the beginning of this and then used VCDS.
 
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I suspect you did not do the immobiliser chip programming quick enough. You have less than a minute to program all the keys. The other issue is I do not know if you can mix and match old and new keys and if any keys are CCCU specific.
So you have 2 keys I can only suggest you go through the key matching again but this time only for the 220E keys, but can not say if there is still a compatibility issue. You are certain that 220E works with AE CCCU.
 
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audifan said:
I suspect you did not do the immobiliser chip programming quick enough. You have less than a minute to program all the keys. The other issue is I do not know if you can mix and match old and new keys and if any keys are CCCU specific.
So you have 2 keys I can only suggest you go through the key matching again but this time only for the 220E keys, but can not say if there is still a compatibility issue. You are certain that 220E works with AE CCCU.
Click to expand...

Ive read on here that the AE is the same as AF except AE includes rear electric windows.
The 220E key is documented to work with the AF.
It’s based on hearsay. I’ll retry with just the 220E keys (only) tomorrow.
After you have programmed the first key do you need to save and go back out of block 24, hit test and then save or can you just bang the next key in and test/save?
 
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Block 24?

Here is Steve Birchalls guide

Hi

I thought a summary of the various options might help.


To re-pair a key that has stopped unlocking / locking remotely.
This one is an easy one.
Just switch on the ignition and then press the unlock button on the key that has stopped working (as long as the battery is not flat in the key fob)
Switch off the ignition, remove the key and it should now operate the door locks,

(you can use one key in the ignition and re-pair a different key if you want, you don't have to re-pair the key in the ignition if that one is already ok)


To add an additional key that has never been paired to the car before.
Firstly ensure that you have bought a key that has the same part number as the one you already have.
You can get a blade cut (there are even people on eBay that can provide you with a new key blade if you just end them a photo of the original blade in the key you already have)
I think that many key cutters can do this for you too. (Timsons and the like)
You can pair the remote operation on the new./secondhand key, but ideally you will need VCDS (there is a method that is supposed to work that involves putting the key in the door lock, but to be honest I have tried this several times and never succeeded).

To pair the remote function on a key that has not been paired before
(The following is done after you have selected control function 46 "CCCU" in the VCDS screen and clicked on adaption)


"Enter channel "21" and click on [Read]

This is supposed to display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value". - Mine always displayed "0" as I think all A2s do?

The "New Value" field is used to indicate the POSITION of the key (out of the 4 positions) NOT the number of keys you want to code,
So instead of following the Ross Tech instructions, try this,
You use the "up/down" arrow to move to the position you want the key to be in (of the 4 possible positions) and then (without clicking test or save or anything) press the unlock button on the key that you want to pair into that position (you might have to hold the unlock down a few seconds, but it is normally quite quick), the field near the top right will change from "initialising" to "Recognised" then click on "save".
You have now paired the first key.
Now repeat this for each key you have (changing the position each time) remembering to save after you get the "recognised" message.

So I would recommend the following, click on the up arrow to get the "1", the field will show "adjustment", press the unlock on the key you want to pair first and the field will change to "recognised" click on save and then you have now paired the first key. Then use the up arrow to move to "2" and then press the unlock button on the second key that you want to pair, when that changes to "recognised" you save that and then repeat for "3" and "4" saving each time. (if you want 4 keys that is!!)

You will now have keys that all work your remote locking.

This process will also work for the new shape keys if you have a CCCU that has a part number that ends in "AF" and a new shape key that has a part number that ends in 220 K. I will be trying to find out which other CCCUs these keys will pair to, but for now I can only guarantee the "AF" unit will pair with a 220 K key (do not buy any other keys, only the 220 K has been proven to work.

The biggest problem you have now is that when you try and use the new key the engine will cut out almost instantly and you will get the flashing "immobiliser" icon.
That is because the final step is to fit a new immobiliser chip and code that to the car. (if you have an old working key that you no longer want to use you can TRY and remove the chip from that and replace it in the new key, but they are well glued in and they are a fragile glass tube. But I have done this a few times and so it can be done. The chip is inside the "key" end of the fob and you will have to lift off the Audi rings to get at the screw that holds it together.

If you can't swap the chip for whatever reason your options are limited. You can take it to Audi to get them to pair the chip (at a large cost). Or you can ask on here if there is anyone local that has the right cable to rad your instrument cluster and get the all important login code to enable you to use VCDS to reprogram a new chip.


As for the new style keys I know Tom has paired 220E to an AF, but do not know if the AE is as you said.. Something is unhappy, so start again with just the 2 new keys.
 
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audifan said:
Block 24?

Here is Steve Birchalls guide

Hi

I thought a summary of the various options might help.


To re-pair a key that has stopped unlocking / locking remotely.
This one is an easy one.
Just switch on the ignition and then press the unlock button on the key that has stopped working (as long as the battery is not flat in the key fob)
Switch off the ignition, remove the key and it should now operate the door locks,

(you can use one key in the ignition and re-pair a different key if you want, you don't have to re-pair the key in the ignition if that one is already ok)


To add an additional key that has never been paired to the car before.
Firstly ensure that you have bought a key that has the same part number as the one you already have.
You can get a blade cut (there are even people on eBay that can provide you with a new key blade if you just end them a photo of the original blade in the key you already have)
I think that many key cutters can do this for you too. (Timsons and the like)
You can pair the remote operation on the new./secondhand key, but ideally you will need VCDS (there is a method that is supposed to work that involves putting the key in the door lock, but to be honest I have tried this several times and never succeeded).

To pair the remote function on a key that has not been paired before
(The following is done after you have selected control function 46 "CCCU" in the VCDS screen and clicked on adaption)


"Enter channel "21" and click on [Read]

This is supposed to display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value". - Mine always displayed "0" as I think all A2s do?

The "New Value" field is used to indicate the POSITION of the key (out of the 4 positions) NOT the number of keys you want to code,
So instead of following the Ross Tech instructions, try this,
You use the "up/down" arrow to move to the position you want the key to be in (of the 4 possible positions) and then (without clicking test or save or anything) press the unlock button on the key that you want to pair into that position (you might have to hold the unlock down a few seconds, but it is normally quite quick), the field near the top right will change from "initialising" to "Recognised" then click on "save".
You have now paired the first key.
Now repeat this for each key you have (changing the position each time) remembering to save after you get the "recognised" message.

So I would recommend the following, click on the up arrow to get the "1", the field will show "adjustment", press the unlock on the key you want to pair first and the field will change to "recognised" click on save and then you have now paired the first key. Then use the up arrow to move to "2" and then press the unlock button on the second key that you want to pair, when that changes to "recognised" you save that and then repeat for "3" and "4" saving each time. (if you want 4 keys that is!!)

You will now have keys that all work your remote locking.

This process will also work for the new shape keys if you have a CCCU that has a part number that ends in "AF" and a new shape key that has a part number that ends in 220 K. I will be trying to find out which other CCCUs these keys will pair to, but for now I can only guarantee the "AF" unit will pair with a 220 K key (do not buy any other keys, only the 220 K has been proven to work.

The biggest problem you have now is that when you try and use the new key the engine will cut out almost instantly and you will get the flashing "immobiliser" icon.
That is because the final step is to fit a new immobiliser chip and code that to the car. (if you have an old working key that you no longer want to use you can TRY and remove the chip from that and replace it in the new key, but they are well glued in and they are a fragile glass tube. But I have done this a few times and so it can be done. The chip is inside the "key" end of the fob and you will have to lift off the Audi rings to get at the screw that holds it together.

If you can't swap the chip for whatever reason your options are limited. You can take it to Audi to get them to pair the chip (at a large cost). Or you can ask on here if there is anyone local that has the right cable to rad your instrument cluster and get the all important login code to enable you to use VCDS to reprogram a new chip.


As for the new style keys I know Tom has paired 220E to an AF, but do not know if the AE is as you said.. Something is unhappy, so start again with just the 2 new keys.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I’ll try again tomorrow and report back
 
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