Shake cured!!!! It was the driveshaft

Bexydack01

Member
Hey!!
So my blue storm is poorly 😞
Need help diagnosing, she has a rattle it sounds similar to the noise a dodgy diff makes however we’ve had box out and refurbed, changed wheel bearing also.
But she still does it
Now she’s started to shake the entire car between 45-55 mph
Does any one have any ideas how to fix her?
I start my new job Monday 😬 so I could with know how to fix her
Thankyou on advance
 
Clutch? Without a bit more information we may struggle. Gearbox refilled with the correct Audi oil?

I take it all wheels are bolted on correctly and torqued?
 
Clutch? Without a bit more information we may struggle. Gearbox refilled with the correct Audi oil?

I take it all wheels are bolted on correctly and torqued?
She’s got a new clutch. And gearbox is refurbed and has correct oil. We got gearbox refurbed as we thought the problem was the diff
 
So still probably drive line at issue. If the wheels are correctly torqued, all the same size and not distorted you could try swapping the front wheels for the rears to see if the problem disappears from the front ( you could have multiple distorted wheels ). Have they been balanced and is the tracking correct.
Next is the drive shafts. The spline can wear and it is vitally important that when fitted into the hubs that 2 rings of loctite are used, if not you will get problems. The CV joints could be worn or partially seized or not correctly fitted to the diff. Now we have the suspension bushes, ball joints and steering ends, the wheel bearing and the state of the springs, dampers and wishbones. The engine mounts would case the shafts to flex and make any issue with wear worse. The pendulum mount on the gearbox is also a source of vibration.
Yes the gearbox has been worked on and a new clutch but were they good OEM quality parts used for all replacements.

Then there is a possibility it is a form of engine misfire either electrical or fuel. Is the timing correct? Is the cambelt good and properly timed and tensioned and are the idlers working and not seized. When was it last serviced and how well was it serviced? How old is the fuel filter?How good is the tandem pump? Is there a leak in a fuel line? Are the injectors in good condition? Is the intercooler split or a air hose leaking? Is the N75 working correctly? Is the turbo good or sticky waste gate?

Is the battery good, are the connections good, is the earth lead working properly, is the alternator and its over run clutch working correctly?

As you can see although someone has had "a play with it" does not equal things are correct.

Have a full VCDS scan done on the car and post the results

We do not know the car, we can not see the car so it is up to you to give as much detail as possible. Remember the information you get is free but it takes US time and effort to help you.
 
Last edited:
So still probably drive line at issue. If the wheels are correctly torqued, all the same size and not distorted you could try swapping the front wheels for the rears to see if the problem disappears from the front ( you could have multiple distorted wheels ). Have they been balanced and is the tracking correct.
Next is the drive shafts. The spline can wear and it is vitally important that when fitted into the hubs that 2 rings of loctite are used, if not you will get problems. The CV joints could be worn or partially seized or not correctly fitted to the diff. Now we have the suspension bushes, ball joints and steering ends, the wheel bearing and the state of the springs, dampers and wishbones. The engine mounts would case the shafts to flex and make any issue with wear worse. The pendulum mount on the gearbox is also a source of vibration.
Yes the gearbox has been worked on and a new clutch but were they good OEM quality parts used for all replacements.

Then there is a possibility it is a form of engine misfire either electrical or fuel. Is the timing correct? Is the cambelt good and properly timed and tensioned and are the idlers working and not seized. When was it last serviced and how well was it serviced? How old is the fuel filter?

As you can see although someone has had "a play with it" does not equal things are correct.

We do not know the car, we can not see the car so it is up to you to give as much detail as possible. Remember the information you get is free but it takes US time and effort to help you.
I can’t think of a possible way my wheels could’ve been distorted, not hit a curb or mounted/dropped off a curb. As I know it can do damage.
Tracking got redone on her not to long since. Few months ago maybe a little longer
As far as I’m aware they was good parts, took it to the highest recommended gearbox spot in the area (still had to travel an hour) the same spot the garage uses that mots my car.
She is getting new belts as though they aren’t worn enough they have met the correct years so we’re going to change them and give her a full service. And she was serviced less then 10k ago we service every 10k miles so she’ll be serviced soon anyway. Same kit as we use on silver one never had any bother
 
I know my list was long and even then not everything was included.

What happens if cruising foot of the accelerator and you slam the accelerator to the floor? Does it do it in 4th and 5th gears? Still suspect the clutch.

As said the driveshaft has to be correctly fitted into the wheel bearing hub assembly with the loctite and a new nut correctly torqued.

So has the work you have had done made the problem better or worse?

Work done my list and check everything before ruling it out.
 
My money would be on driveshafts.

Metoo; see last page here:

 
I had a similar 'vibration' problem when accelerating, similar to you, between 55-60. I took it to a tyre shop thinking I might have buckled a wheel on a pothole, asked them to check. Turns out the wheels were fine, but the counter weights (the weights used to balance the wheel) had come off. Out of balance the wheel wobbles at speed. After balancing the wheels, the vibration has gone.

This might not be related to your problem, but it's a simple thing to check.
 
I had a similar 'vibration' problem when accelerating, similar to you, between 55-60. I took it to a tyre shop thinking I might have buckled a wheel on a pothole, asked them to check. Turns out the wheels were fine, but the counter weights (the weights used to balance the wheel) had come off. Out of balance the wheel wobbles at speed. After balancing the wheels, the vibration has gone.

This might not be related to your problem, but it's a simple thing to check.
Also, check the tyre walls for any bulges.
 
Hi Becky,

I wonder what alloys do you have, as the 17 sport multispoke alloys on tdi90's are soft, I have buckled two without hitting anything and got wobbles at certain speeds. I think the most like things are egg shaped alloy if on 17 multispoke sports, or unblanced wheels, failing that easy cheap check it would be drive shafts, given theyve been out for gearbox. Either way good luck finding it and let us know what it was to help the forum gain EVEN more database knowledge :)
 
My money would be on driveshafts.
Me too, my tdi75 had this issue a few months back. Quite violent shakes on acceleration, got progressively worse, and worse on hills. I went for j&r new driveshafts both sides, problem cured, not expensive. Cheers
 
Back
Top